Si BMS intake

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86salmon

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Hi.
I am considering intake mod. What would you recommend? PRL CAI cobra or BMS?
Not too many users of BMS around...
I live and work in an area with daily flooding so a true CAI is not something I can consider safe. It's also somewhere that is fairly hot for a large amount of the year so temperature recovery was important. Many SRI have heat soak issues or trim issues. BMS intakes were an unknown to me, but seemed to be liked in the Bimmer community. I gave it a shot after seeing it linked here by a Canadian user who didn't want to do the washer relocate

As you can see by my logs, I've had a good experience with the BMS SRI so far. I haven't heard much else about the intake aside from @Pur3MotioN770 and his current experience, which I hope he's working out.

I can't say what will fit your needs better. PRL CAI works well. It has a large user base with good results. I don't know about the PRL SRI. There's not much out there data wise, just anecdote. For the BMS all I have are the logs and testing in this thread. For the money I find it to be a great value.

I would say look at the information available, and pick the intake based on your wants and needs. For a big power build with the PRL big turbo, get the Cobra CAI for sure.

I'm happy with BMS so far and it works for my needs. A little pep on top of a fun platform
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GTA1977

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I just got the BMS intake installed last week. I love the induction sound under WOT. It was very cost effective, and a local shop had them in stock close to my house in Toronto. There was definitely a noticeable performance increase, however I got it installed along with a RV6 catless downpipe, so it's hard to pinpoint how much each mod contributed to performance.
 

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There is a definite stigma against SRI. For pure performance, nothing has better results than the PRL Cobra CAI. I don't trust having one while I'm living in a city that floods at high tide.
IMG_20190612_114601.jpg


Flash flooding and hydrolock are a common thing here.

There just aren't any numbers or testing out there for the other options. All I can really dig up are random posts with unspecific numbers. So I have mine and my numbers.

It's not as sexy as the MAP, Mishimoto, or the 27won. It doesn't have the following of PRL. It's just an inexpensive alternative that I'm giving a fair shake. If better numbers and testing appear, I'll look into it. If I move, I'll get a Cobra CAI

In other news. I got a Mishimoto intake hose, just to see. It comes in a sexy blue, so I had to

IMG_20190709_082058.jpg


More numbers with it, and testing with the stock hose to come!
I have recently installed this bms intake and filter on my 1.5 sport and i had to use the ' factory calibration with top end' scale and then still had to scale the maf in the higher flow as it was running too lean on this is on ktuner 21psi dual, however it is a great product and i am using my prl stage 1 hose but my god has it gone soft with no rigidity at all when warm :( do you still run this set up? How is the mishimoto hose doing on it?
 
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I have recently installed this bms intake and filter on my 1.5 sport and i had to use the ' factory calibration with top end' scale and then still had to scale the maf in the higher flow as it was running too lean on this is on ktuner 21psi dual, however it is a great product and i am using my prl stage 1 hose but my god has it gone soft with no rigidity at all when warm :( do you still run this set up? How is the mishimoto hose doing on it?

Lean seems to be common for non Si users. Ltft +10 to +15 without scaling. I don't know if anyone non si had similar issues on TSP stage 1. My ECU ended up learning the intake and went from rich to stoich on TSP. I'm in the process of getting a street tune and my trims are currently dialed in

The Mishi hose is definitely more rigid. I'm currently back to using the PRL hose for ease of removal with the add-ons I've had lately. I'll likely switch back. Performance wise, my testing had all three hoses performing very similarly, with the Mishi hose having no issues
 

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I had to end up taking mine off because of the high positive trims, and will need a custom tune to scale it properly, since the custom tune I'm now running has this area locked. Part of me thinks they sent out race versions, instead of factory. Unfortunately, my tuner Vit Viper no longer tunes these cars, excluding Civic X's on motech. Will probably end up retuning with Drob, I have the Type R clutch, so I may try and squeeze out about 20 more horses on the stock turbo, without breaking the car.
 


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86salmon

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I had to end up taking mine off because of the high positive trims, and will need a custom tune to scale it properly, since the custom tune I'm now running has this area locked. Part of me thinks they sent out race versions, instead of factory. Unfortunately, my tuner Vit Viper no longer tunes these cars, excluding Civic X's on motech. Will probably end up retuning with Drob, I have the Type R clutch, so I may try and squeeze out about 20 more horses on the stock turbo, without breaking the car.

You were already pretty fast on that Vit tune. With no clutch worries I'd love to see what drob could do for you
 

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Lean seems to be common for non Si users. Ltft +10 to +15 without scaling. I don't know if anyone non si had similar issues on TSP stage 1. My ECU ended up learning the intake and went from rich to stoich on TSP. I'm in the process of getting a street tune and my trims are currently dialed in

The Mishi hose is definitely more rigid. I'm currently back to using the PRL hose for ease of removal with the add-ons I've had lately. I'll likely switch back. Performance wise, my testing had all three hoses performing very similarly, with the Mishi hose having no issues
that is true the trims were definatly in the high region once i installed it but eventually i have managed to get them down and the power is definatly there now it is all dialed in and it makes a great sound, i decided to put the stock piping back on for it as my PRL was just too soft and i think it looks a lot better with stock piping in my opinion. how have you managed to dial your trims in? is a street tune another word for 'custom' tune over in the US ? i must ask though, how is your guys platform set up? do you run in status 4 when at WOT?
 

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You were already pretty fast on that Vit tune. With no clutch worries I'd love to see what drob could do for you
i would of loved to of had VIT work on a UK version 1.5 to see much he could achieve, i have been in contact with Drob and eventually i will be getting him to do an Etune but i want to wait until ive upgraded clutch and better tyres, i had a guy in the uk custom tune mine with the PRL cobra and prl catless dp/fp but the smell was too much and the power was too much it didnt feel safe going at WOT, also my knock control was .78-.98 all the time even with 99ron fuel. so i decided to go catted and back to street maf until ive got a better transmission. ive spent a lot of money on this car and im the only one in the UK who has PRL upgrades and people think im stupid for it as they say just ' buy a type R' :confused:
 
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86salmon

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i would of loved to of had VIT work on a UK version 1.5 to see much he could achieve, i have been in contact with Drob and eventually i will be getting him to do an Etune but i want to wait until ive upgraded clutch and better tyres, i had a guy in the uk custom tune mine with the PRL cobra and prl catless dp/fp but the smell was too much and the power was too much it didnt feel safe going at WOT, also my knock control was .78-.98 all the time even with 99ron fuel. so i decided to go catted and back to street maf until ive got a better transmission. ive spent a lot of money on this car and im the only one in the UK who has PRL upgrades and people think im stupid for it as they say just ' buy a type R' :confused:
that is true the trims were definatly in the high region once i installed it but eventually i have managed to get them down and the power is definatly there now it is all dialed in and it makes a great sound, i decided to put the stock piping back on for it as my PRL was just too soft and i think it looks a lot better with stock piping in my opinion. how have you managed to dial your trims in? is a street tune another word for 'custom' tune over in the US ? i must ask though, how is your guys platform set up? do you run in status 4 when at WOT?

Street tuned is a custom tune where I send my tuner data logs of driving in different conditions with pulls in different gears and at different rpm ranges. My guy then sends me tunes that have adjustments. He had the trims and kcontrol mostly sorted on the first tune. From there, he's been slowly advancing timing. My trims are currently -2 Ltft, 14.7 AFR, while kcontrol sits at .53 on my latest update

A dyno tune is kinda like this, but on a dyno, so you get a read out of what and where your output and gains are. These can be done in person or remotely via internet


As far as the three intake tubes go, my testing showed results very similar between the three. The aftermarket tubes are just dressing as far as I'm concerned. I have blue Mishi cause I think it looks nice with my blue filter. I have black PRL and it goes with my PRL FMIC tubes

Is the TSP tune available for your ECU? If you don't plan on doing much more, it's a great option. I stayed exclusively in map 3, though I rarely used the sport (rally) mode option, and have had no clutch issues.

For si trims were never far off (-7 was there most extreme Ltft I ever saw), but all my trims leveled to stoich in a matter of a couple weeks on their own. The ECU just learned and leveled everything out

A custom tune, especially from someone like drob or derf will definitely maximize your gains. Plus they can set it up according to what your personal goals are

I'm not sure what you mean by status 4.
 
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Street tuned is a custom tune where I send my tuner data logs of driving in different conditions with pulls in different gears and at different rpm ranges. My guy then sends me tunes that have adjustments. He had the trims and kcontrol mostly sorted on the first tune. From there, he's been slowly advancing timing. My trims are currently -2 Ltft, 14.7 AFR, while kcontrol sits at .53 on my latest update

A dyno tune is kinda like this, but on a dyno, so you get a read out of what and where your output and gains are. These can be done in person or remotely via internet


As far as the three intake tubes go, my testing showed results very similar between the three. The aftermarket tubes are just dressing as far as I'm concerned. I have blue Mishi cause I think it looks nice with my blue filter. I have black PRL and it goes with my PRL FMIC tubes

Is the TSP tune available for your ECU? If you don't plan on doing much more, it's a great option. I stayed exclusively in map 3, though I rarely used the sport (rally) mode option, and have had no clutch issues.

For si trims were never far off (-7 was there most extreme Ltft I ever saw), but of my trims leveled to stoich in a matter of a couple weeks on their own. The ECU just learned and leveled everything out

A custom tune, especially from someone like drob or derf will definitely maximize your gains. Plus they can set it up according to what your personal goals are

I'm not sure what you mean by status 4.
oh okay cool i guess i have had experiences with both of these then! the dyno tune was the best results as i had my prl cobra and catless set up, i hit 267hp and 317lbft torque but my transmission couldnt hold it i just spun at wot throttle, i then reduced down to catted and prl stage 1 with basemap and then reached out to a guy for street tune which felt better but my ignition was wayyy too advanced and knock control was always high so i bottled it and now im on basemap.

yes the TSP stage 1 is available to my ECU and i purchased it back when it was first released but i wanted to save it until i got bored of basemap and wanted some more safe power, but im unsure if my BMS intake will run right as i cant dial in the maf scale on TSP as its locked. i am very tempted to try it now though as everyone raves about it :D

okay so fuel status 4 i believe is closed loop? where the fuel cuts off and it goes Wide open throttle. does your platform do this?
 


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86salmon

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I had to end up taking mine off because of the high positive trims, and will need a custom tune to scale it properly, since the custom tune I'm now running has this area locked. Part of me thinks they sent out race versions, instead of factory. Unfortunately, my tuner Vit Viper no longer tunes these cars, excluding Civic X's on motech. Will probably end up retuning with Drob, I have the Type R clutch, so I may try and squeeze out about 20 more horses on the stock turbo, without breaking the car.
i second you on that brother! so i have had my bms intake on my sport for about a month now and its been a solid month of data logging/ maf scaling/ afr scaling etc.. and i could not for the life of me get my trims to set less than 7% and i tried everything!, then yesterday i decided to take it off and measure the maf housing and to my knowledge it measured at 58mm where as my stock housing is 64mm! so straight away alarm bells were ringing and thinking ' why would they make street maf smaller than stock??' anyway because of this, when i was tightening to clamps down on the maf housing side for the stock pipe to re connect the stock airbox, i had somehow over tightened the clamp when i was first fitting the BMS intake and now ive cross threaded my clamp so ive had to improvise for now until i can order new stock clamp.

anyway since i have fitted the stock airbox i have done 1 long data log and scaled my maf in with 3% adjusments here and there and now its perfect! and the car feels smoother in power delivery too.

this is a shame though as i loved the sound of the bms filter and the build quality is solid especially compared to prl's cone filter that got destroyed just by pushing it on alone. so my plan is to maybe buy a spare airbox cover and cut the stock maf out so i can use the bms filter, or OPT for the prl race maf but i dont think the filter opening will fit, do BMS do bigger opening on their filters?

sorry for the essay but i had to share this as ive spent 147 dollars plus shipping plus 40 pound taxes just to get this bms intake and now all i have is the filter that i can use :(
 

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i second you on that brother! so i have had my bms intake on my sport for about a month now and its been a solid month of data logging/ maf scaling/ afr scaling etc.. and i could not for the life of me get my trims to set less than 7% and i tried everything!, then yesterday i decided to take it off and measure the maf housing and to my knowledge it measured at 58mm where as my stock housing is 64mm! so straight away alarm bells were ringing and thinking ' why would they make street maf smaller than stock??' anyway because of this, when i was tightening to clamps down on the maf housing side for the stock pipe to re connect the stock airbox, i had somehow over tightened the clamp when i was first fitting the BMS intake and now ive cross threaded my clamp so ive had to improvise for now until i can order new stock clamp.

anyway since i have fitted the stock airbox i have done 1 long data log and scaled my maf in with 3% adjusments here and there and now its perfect! and the car feels smoother in power delivery too.

this is a shame though as i loved the sound of the bms filter and the build quality is solid especially compared to prl's cone filter that got destroyed just by pushing it on alone. so my plan is to maybe buy a spare airbox cover and cut the stock maf out so i can use the bms filter, or OPT for the prl race maf but i dont think the filter opening will fit, do BMS do bigger opening on their filters?

sorry for the essay but i had to share this as ive spent 147 dollars plus shipping plus 40 pound taxes just to get this bms intake and now all i have is the filter that i can use :(
You talking STFT or LTFT? What did you use to measure? 7% is not bad.
 

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You talking STFT or LTFT? What did you use to measure? 7% is not bad.
STFT as i disabled my LTFT because i was always rescaling the maf. i measured the trims by exporting data log to CSV file and calculating averages and inputting it into maf scale. at some points it was okay but idle trims were all over and then partial throttle was sometimes 15% spikes then drops back down to 7%. i watched a youtube video though earlier saying the best they could keep the trims was with 10% i believe? i didnt like the thought of running a smaller maf size so im now back to stock. i see you are on custom tune by drob, what upgrades do you have and what power did he manage to get you running at if dont mind me asking? :D
 

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STFT as i disabled my LTFT because i was always rescaling the maf. i measured the trims by exporting data log to CSV file and calculating averages and inputting it into maf scale. at some points it was okay but idle trims were all over and then partial throttle was sometimes 15% spikes then drops back down to 7%. i watched a youtube video though earlier saying the best they could keep the trims was with 10% i believe? i didnt like the thought of running a smaller maf size so im now back to stock. i see you are on custom tune by drob, what upgrades do you have and what power did he manage to get you running at if dont mind me asking? :D
I was running a custom tune by Vit, but recently just started tuning with Drob, still on the first revision. Hoping he can get this thing scaled properly.
You have a link to that video?
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