The Type R reviews said the shifter was...

I had similar experiences to what you described for a while. I decided to try to adjust the CMC rod a bit and that small adjustment had quite a large impact on my shifting experience. No more crunch on fast 1-2 shifts and a marked increase in smoothness. It's not perfect but it's quite a bit better. If it came like this, I would be totally fine with it (meaning I wouldn't have been looking for a fix).
Might be worth trying to adjust the CMC rod a bit and see if that helps.

CMC rod? What and where is it?

krees said:

I had similar experiences to what you described for a while. I decided to try to adjust the CMC rod a bit and that small adjustment had quite a large impact on my shifting experience. No more crunch on fast 1-2 shifts and a marked increase in smoothness. It's not perfect but it's quite a bit better. If it came like this, I would be totally fine with it (meaning I wouldn't have been looking for a fix).
Might be worth trying to adjust the CMC rod a bit and see if that helps.

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ExVTEC said:

CMC rod? What and where is it?

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Update: check out this post and video
https://www.civicx.com/threads/the-infamous-2nd-gear-crunch.12890/page-87#post-638242

It is attached to the back of the clutch pedal in the foot well. When you push the clutch pedal it depresses the rod into the CMC pushing fluid through the system. There is a 12mm nut locking the clutch cylinder in place. If you back off that nut, you can spin the CMC rod adjusting it's "stroke". I believe I rotated a bit clockwise to remove some free play. As a result, the clutch grab point is pretty high on the pedal just fyi. I'll see if I can dig up the thread for you.

krees said:

I had similar experiences to what you described for a while. I decided to try to adjust the CMC rod a bit and that small adjustment had quite a large impact on my shifting experience. No more crunch on fast 1-2 shifts and a marked increase in smoothness. It's not perfect but it's quite a bit better. If it came like this, I would be totally fine with it (meaning I wouldn't have been looking for a fix).
Might be worth trying to adjust the CMC rod a bit and see if that helps.

Click to expand...

I'm glad people are finally catching on to this.

Lust said:

I'm glad people are finally catching on to this.

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I know! There are so many people on both sides (it is/is not a problem for them) that it makes one wonder if there are part tolerancing issues and/or production variances at the factory related to the CMC.

krees said:

Update: check out this post and video
https://www.civicx.com/threads/the-infamous-2nd-gear-crunch.12890/page-87#post-638242

It is attached to the back of the clutch pedal in the foot well. When you push the clutch pedal it depresses the rod into the CMC pushing fluid through the system. There is a 12mm nut locking the clutch cylinder in place. If you back off that nut, you can spin the CMC rod adjusting it's "stroke". I believe I rotated a bit clockwise to remove some free play. As a result, the clutch grab point is pretty high on the pedal just fyi. I'll see if I can dig up the thread for you.

Click to expand...

Thanks for linking to the video and the suggestion. I've just completed adjusting the CMC rod and it definitely has a positive effect on shifting feel (more precise). The hardest part was getting into a position without hurting the rib cage (lay a thick blanket over the hump/sill). Loosen the nut (11mm or 12mm open-end wrench). Turn the rod clockwise until you feel resistance and back off 1/8" just to be safe. Tighten nut and enjoy the more precise shifting feel.

Lust said:

I'm glad people are finally catching on to this.

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I'm so glad I did this adjustment. Shifting feels like a dream now. After the rod adjustment, I had the transmission fluid changed out the next day. I was thinking about getting that acuity kit, but not anymore. SO happy I did this little adjustment, that made a world of a difference.

TypeSiR said:

Thanks for linking to the video and the suggestion. I've just completed adjusting the CMC rod and it definitely has a positive effect on shifting feel (more precise). The hardest part was getting into a position without hurting the rib cage (lay a thick blanket over the hump/sill). Loosen the nut (11mm or 12mm open-end wrench). Turn the rod clockwise until you feel resistance and back off 1/8" just to be safe. Tighten nut and enjoy the more precise shifting feel.

Click to expand...

That's exactly what I did...find the resistance and then back off an 1/8th. I'm going to be looking to refill with amsoil but now I can delay that a bit

krees said:

That's exactly what I did...find the resistance and then back off an 1/8th. I'm going to be looking to refill with amsoil but now I can delay that a bit

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What was the behavior you were experiencing that the rod adjustment really helped with? 2nd gear, even with relatively smooth, clunks... it drives me crazy. My 05 s2000 had this same behavior (the ctr is not near as bad) and I ended up selling the car after not owning it long because every time I drove the car, all i could think about was smoothly shifting in 2nd. Going into 1st, 3rd, 4th, all fairly smooth. 2nd, even when I swear I'm doing the same engagement, with the clutch all the way on the floor, seems to have a mind of its own to whether its going to be absolutely smooth, or bumpy/notchy or relatively smooth but audibly clunk into gear.

Doesn't have near the smoothness of the ITR back in the day. For what its worth, the car only has 400 miles.

ExVTEC said:

Amazing, excellent, awesome. Then why does my shifter feel like this? Probably one of the worst I've ever owned.

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Seeing this gave me a good laugh, that's exactly how my shifter feels, nearing 3k miles in my R I've done the cmc adjustment which helped a ton and will be doing a fluid change to amsoil very soon hoping that will fully solve the issue if not the acuity stage 3 shifter looks very promising

There are 6 inherent problems 2 or 3 of them you can easily fix yourself
1 shifter bushings on trans suck
2 fluid viscosity For was for fuel mileage
3 Honda design how 1-2 shift occurs
4 slow clutch or not total disengagement.
5 shift select lever
6 up shift cable too much play

fixing problem 1 change to acuity trans bushings
Problem 2 I wrote a thread in this search my name. Put 1.5 quarts torco racing rtf .5 qts lucas trans and 2 ounces yes ounces of liquimoly ceratec
.fix problem 3 when new synchros come out problem 4 remove clutch slave delay valve and/or adjust clutch master
Problem 5 get acuity shift select lever
Problem 6 there is no better cable so when ever you shift from 1-2 3-4 5-6 you going to get that inherent clunk as your trying to push a cable rather than pull. the 1-2 grind will happen much less but it should be the only problem after you fix these. If you don’t want 1-2 grind you’ll have to learn to apply slight rearward pressure with one of two fingers but not pull it out if gear as you shift from 1 to 2

I haven't had any issues with the 1st to 2nd other than you can feel it a little more. The 5th to 6th though. You can not be lazy at all with it. Have to push to right a little as you go for 6th. If not it will put you in 4th.

OneSickFK8 said:

I haven't had any issues with the 1st to 2nd other than you can feel it a little more. The 5th to 6th though. You can not be lazy at all with it. Have to push to right a little as you go for 6th. If not it will put you in 4th.

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That's exactly what I've experienced too. No problems grinding into 2nd but yes you have to be mindful of always keeping to the right when pulling down from 5th into 6th gear.