PowerPerLiter
Specific Output
Dont need a degree to understand heat transfer......
PowerPerLiter
Specific Output
Another snip off their website.... do I think its shenanigans? Kind of...hence why I dont use it.
COOLANT VS METAL TEMPERATURE
Posted on 4/25/2019
I recently saw on a forum someone asking how it can be possible to see a higher coolant temperature at the same time as our coolant is keeping the engine cooler. It's not as crazy as it sounds!
First, let's not confuse coolant temperature with metal temperature. People tend to focus on coolant temperature for two very good reasons, it's visible on the gauge and engine overheating starts with overheating the coolant. If you're on the edge of overheating your coolant (220-230F), another 10 degrees will push it over the edge. The metal components, however, don't care about a 10 degree rise.
The metal components can become overheated once antifreeze boils to vapor inside the engine. Local boiling around the exhaust valves will empty the cooling jacket there of liquid antifreeze allowing the metal temperature to spike by hundreds of degrees.
The temperature of our coolant can be higher at the gauge (we're talking 10 degrees or less - not much) while keeping the metal temperatures at all locations under control. See? The science does make sense once you understand what's going on internally!
COOLANT VS METAL TEMPERATURE
Posted on 4/25/2019
I recently saw on a forum someone asking how it can be possible to see a higher coolant temperature at the same time as our coolant is keeping the engine cooler. It's not as crazy as it sounds!
First, let's not confuse coolant temperature with metal temperature. People tend to focus on coolant temperature for two very good reasons, it's visible on the gauge and engine overheating starts with overheating the coolant. If you're on the edge of overheating your coolant (220-230F), another 10 degrees will push it over the edge. The metal components, however, don't care about a 10 degree rise.
The metal components can become overheated once antifreeze boils to vapor inside the engine. Local boiling around the exhaust valves will empty the cooling jacket there of liquid antifreeze allowing the metal temperature to spike by hundreds of degrees.
The temperature of our coolant can be higher at the gauge (we're talking 10 degrees or less - not much) while keeping the metal temperatures at all locations under control. See? The science does make sense once you understand what's going on internally!
Gruber
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I guess the Evans philosophers think so, but actually, the opposite is true. It is totally impossible to understand the topic of heat exchange with boiling without a degree in chemical/process/thermal engineering, or physics, or something close. It happens to be very close to what I do. Tons of journal articles exist in both scientific and engineering journals on boiling heat exchange, boiling flow + heat exchange regimes etc. I ain't simple at all.
This is a high $$$$ very well funded area, because it has application to power (steam) plants (fossil and nuclear), nuclear reactor cooling, and heat exchangers in all chemical industry.
I'm only writing to discourage people from using this coolant based on the vendor nonsense. They are taking advantage of the fact that the temperature of the hot spots can't be measured by the car owner and so they can claim what they want without evidence but only hand waving arguments.
The point is that they did not invent anything. Anyone who has a car likely thought: why not use pure propylene glycol? It doesn't take an Einstein to have this idea, but also everybody knows that about 50/50 mixture with water is optimal and that's why all car manufacturers use it.
Whiting087
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RookieOfTheGear
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I used Peak asaincoolant
i recently flushed my original honda coolant out and replaced it with 50/50 Peak coolant the blue label jug for hondas 1990 + . So far no issues ,the car feels smoother idk how coolant would effect a car engine in that way but it is running noticeably better since I swapped the coolant out. Call me crazy but I have been driving my civic Si since 2018 & it’s one month away from 2023 I know how my car felt & drove like the back of my hand. I drained the old coolant then fill and flush x3 with distilled water and ran the heater on max with a few 3k rpm holds in neutral that seemed to help suck down the water from the reservoir tank alot reving the engine a few times. then a final fill with the new coolant and one top off after driving it for 1 day. It’s been steady at the max line since. I will admit that I couldn’t get more than 80% of the 1 gallon jug in the radiator tho, I bought two 1 gallon jugs of coolant because everywhere I read said the 10th gens took 1.4 gallons and 2 gallons if you opened up a engine block drain plug which I never planned to open anyways. But the car has been doing great I’m assuming I have extra distilled water in the cooling system taking up space. I spent the night up in big bear over a weekend n over night it dropped to 18 degrees outside and my car turned on fine in the morning it so I’m not worried about it freezing from water dilution any more. If you have a Si the drain port is behind the lower half of the air intake you can’t see it from above or underneath the car you have to remove the air resornator box it has two bolt’s 10mm I believe n a weird slide out toward the bumper clip/hook I’m not sure how to explain it but just pull at different angles once the two 10mms are loose it’s pretty tough and tight but it will release just mess with it by hand I really had to pull on it tho dont be scared mine didn’t break hopefully urs won’t either
partialprint
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Hows your car running after a few months my local walmart has rhe blue peak 50/50 as well im 2017 and considering flushing the coolant soon too
RookieOfTheGear
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The car has been running fine temperature is great never climbs above half way on the meter. Hasn’t frozen either during winter mountain trips in the snow recently so I’m happy with it. I haven’t seen any rust in the coolant tank just blue coolant as far as I can tell
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