Spec + wilwood cmc = leak?

HotPaperPlate

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I contacted SPEC and they said they have only heard of 2 users having a leak.
“The only leak we have seen has been on the Honda, which makes me think the pedal was not adjusted correctly and it overextended that seal.”

I also contacted sirmimoto about their cmc and they said “Thank you for considering us on your upgrading needs. To note, the main reason the clutch was heavier with the Wilwood is due to the large diameter of the cylinder. It quite a bit larger and as such, requires more effort. Since our kit uses a similar bore to the stock one, the effort should be very similar to stock as well. As for the lockout, this is common issue on the civic mostly cause by the diaphragm in the master cylinder. At higher RPMs, this diaphragm may delay the engagement/disengagement of the clutch and cause it to lockout. Our kit remedies this with a cylinder that does not have the diaphragm at all. As such, it will feel and act similar to stock, but be able to handle a stronger clutch. Hopefully this helps, please let us know if you have any other questions or concerns.”

I went ahead and ordered theirs. Will keep ya posted.
Yes! Please keep us updated, mines haven't leaked yet but will keep an eye on it now. A lighter clutch pedal would help in rush hour traffic here lol
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I contacted SPEC and they said they have only heard of 2 users having a leak.
“The only leak we have seen has been on the Honda, which makes me think the pedal was not adjusted correctly and it overextended that seal.”

I also contacted sirmimoto about their cmc and they said “Thank you for considering us on your upgrading needs. To note, the main reason the clutch was heavier with the Wilwood is due to the large diameter of the cylinder. It quite a bit larger and as such, requires more effort. Since our kit uses a similar bore to the stock one, the effort should be very similar to stock as well. As for the lockout, this is common issue on the civic mostly cause by the diaphragm in the master cylinder. At higher RPMs, this diaphragm may delay the engagement/disengagement of the clutch and cause it to lockout. Our kit remedies this with a cylinder that does not have the diaphragm at all. As such, it will feel and act similar to stock, but be able to handle a stronger clutch. Hopefully this helps, please let us know if you have any other questions or concerns.”

I went ahead and ordered theirs. Will keep ya posted.
Let me know how it works out, I checked my willwood cmc after reading yalls issues and I noticed a leak too. Definitely thinking of going the same route as you. I'm gonna try and mess it with this weekend by moving the rod and see if it fixes anything.
 
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BoostedDreams

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Let me know how it works out, I checked my willwood cmc after reading yalls issues and I noticed a leak too. Definitely thinking of going the same route as you. I'm gonna try and mess it with this weekend by moving the rod and see if it fixes anything.
This is nutty. I’ll keep ya posted for sure. Let me know if adjusting the rod did anything
 
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BoostedDreams

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Just to update everyone, I had the sirimoto n1 CMC installed today after throwing the leaky $200 wilwood in the trash.
The good news is that the clutch pedal feel is much softer, closer to stockish pressure. Worlds better than before. Much more daily driver friendly.
The bad is that I can’t shift as fast. There is a bit of lockout again, not as bad as with a stock CMC, but it’s noticeable, especially 1st>2nd.

If you drag race your car a lot then this may be a hindrance.
For me, I’m going to have to either:
A) Accept the car as is
B) Drive it until I can afford a Type R retro fit
C) Stop pouring money into, part it out and move onto a more proven platform.
 

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BoostedDreams said:
I contacted SPEC and they said they have only heard of 2 users having a leak.
“The only leak we have seen has been on the Honda, which makes me think the pedal was not adjusted correctly and it overextended that seal.”

Im pretty sure that there are c-clips to prevent overextension. I still thinking either bad batch of seals or incompatible fluid. It happens very often in the hydraulic world, especially when N-buna seals are being used.
 


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BoostedDreams said:
I contacted SPEC and they said they have only heard of 2 users having a leak.
“The only leak we have seen has been on the Honda, which makes me think the pedal was not adjusted correctly and it overextended that seal.”

Im pretty sure that there are c-clips to prevent overextension. I still thinking either bad batch of seals or incompatible fluid. It happens very often in the hydraulic world, especially when N-buna seals are being used.
They told me the same thing, but then again I know of 4 people having the leak. How many people are actually running the wilwood CMC anyways? Not many I imagine.

Regardless, i don’t think any car will give me the performance of the si for under 25k. Plus I have 5 grand into the car with labor and parts. I owe $15k on it. It’s an 18 with 13k miles. What to do..
 

cmunoz1795

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Just to update everyone, I had the sirimoto n1 CMC installed today after throwing the leaky $200 wilwood in the trash.
The good news is that the clutch pedal feel is much softer, closer to stockish pressure. Worlds better than before. Much more daily driver friendly.
The bad is that I can’t shift as fast. There is a bit of lockout again, not as bad as with a stock CMC, but it’s noticeable, especially 1st>2nd.

If you drag race your car a lot then this may be a hindrance.
For me, I’m going to have to either:
A) Accept the car as is
B) Drive it until I can afford a Type R retro fit
C) Stop pouring money into, part it out and move onto a more proven platform.
I was hoping for no lockout but that's better than having a leak. The mechanic that helped me with it said he doesn't think a rod adjustment will fix it. He gonna take a look at it when he has time.
 

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I love my Si too! Bang for the buck is outta this world. It sucks that we don’t have a bunch of proven options regarding the clutch... I’m still driving with stock clutch on TSP Stage 1 and no issues...I better go find some wood to knock on...
 
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Do you guys think it would make sense to part out the car, and trade up for a type r if I can find one for msrp or certified? I feel like it’s a much more solid platform for modding. I got decent equity in the car and can and can probably do up 7k down. Instead of swapping everything type r, just start with a type r to begin with lol.
 

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Do you guys think it would make sense to part out the car, and trade up for a type r if I can find one for msrp or certified? I feel like it’s a much more solid platform for modding. I got decent equity in the car and can and can probably do up 7k down. Instead of swapping everything type r, just start with a type r to begin with lol.
I would have stepped up to a Type R and left it stock... but... being my DD I couldn’t imagine driving it in the snow... sacrilegious! The Si suits my needs for now. If I wanted a speed demon I would have picked up a Camaro SS.... and prayed to the gods while driving in snow!
 


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Just to update everyone, I had the sirimoto n1 CMC installed today after throwing the leaky $200 wilwood in the trash.
The good news is that the clutch pedal feel is much softer, closer to stockish pressure. Worlds better than before. Much more daily driver friendly.
The bad is that I can’t shift as fast. There is a bit of lockout again, not as bad as with a stock CMC, but it’s noticeable, especially 1st>2nd.

If you drag race your car a lot then this may be a hindrance.
For me, I’m going to have to either:
A) Accept the car as is
B) Drive it until I can afford a Type R retro fit
C) Stop pouring money into, part it out and move onto a more proven platform.
Hope you didn't really throw that Wilwood CMC away. Probably could have gotten something out of it, if not a full refund.
 
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BoostedDreams

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Hope you didn't really throw that Wilwood CMC away. Probably could have gotten something out of it, if not a full refund.
I have the shop holding onto it for me, but what can i really do with it ?
 

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I have the shop holding onto it for me, but what can i really do with it ?
They are rebuildable if nothing else. I'd contact whoever you bought it from and see what they recommend.
 


 


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