New guy - questions for those running a DSP

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That's horrific. I wish we could just disable it and keep it disabled.
Agreed. Would be a perfectly flat signal to send to a DSP for fine tuning. Units like the JL Fix-86 is basically taking the modified signal and changing it to the flat signal like in the above graph.
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Just measured the HU's power. Being that my cheap multimeter is most accurate from 45-450hz, I chose to create a 400hz test tone recorded at 0db as 400hz shows to be the highest voltage in that range based on graphs previously posted.

Hooked up multimeter to the drivers side speaker wires, set to AC, HU cranked to volume 29 and test tone played. Reading was 10.5 volts.

**10.5v x 10.5v / 4 ohms = 27.56 watts (this is not dead accurate but should be fairly close - remember, music is dynamic so power will go up and down based on frequency/impedances changes)
 

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Thanks for all of the good info you have been posting up in here!! It will be useful when I start gathering stuff to do my build:thumbsup:
 

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Just measured the HU's power. Being that my cheap multimeter is most accurate from 45-450hz, I chose to create a 400hz test tone recorded at 0db as 400hz shows to be the highest voltage in that range based on graphs previously posted.

Hooked up multimeter to the drivers side speaker wires, set to AC, HU cranked to volume 29 and test tone played. Reading was 10.5 volts.

**10.5v x 10.5v / 4 ohms = 27.56 watts (this is not dead accurate but should be fairly close - remember, music is dynamic so power will go up and down based on frequency/impedances changes)
That's decent power. Just wish we could flatten that curve out...
 
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That's decent power. Just wish we could flatten that curve out...

Agreed, more than I was expecting. But, that is divided between mid & tweeter since tweeter in ran in line with the mid. I measured the mid at 4ohms, but was unable to measure the tweeters resistance, so I don't know how much power each individual driver is receiving.
 


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Agreed, more than I was expecting. But, that is divided between mid & tweeter since tweeter in ran in line with the mid. I measured the mid at 4ohms, but was unable to measure the tweeters resistance, so I don't know how much power each individual driver is receiving.
Correct me if I'm wrong...

Wouldn't putting a nice set of 4 ohm components in there with a proper crossover increase the power delivered to the Mid and Tweet. If they're just connected in parallel now they're both getting half the power they could. With a crossover, they'd both get all 27.56 watts. Right?

Or... they're both 4 ohm and are bridging that channel down to 2 ohm. That could double the power out of the headunit but it would cause it to distort sooner.

Either way, I think components with a proper crossover would be an improvement. Maybe 3db...
 

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Hi guys, just read this whole thread and it has very interesting information thanks for all that. I have a 2016 model, 1.5 turbo plus (Mexican version) and I'm doing a system upgrade with all DD products. I ran into a problem after I installed the new 6.5 speakers and amplified them with a DD D100.4. Now whenever I make/receive calls, I can't t hear them over the speakers does anyone know a fix for this by any chance?
 

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Hi guys, just read this whole thread and it has very interesting information thanks for all that. I have a 2016 model, 1.5 turbo plus (Mexican version) and I'm doing a system upgrade with all DD products. I ran into a problem after I installed the new 6.5 speakers and amplified them with a DD D100.4. Now whenever I make/receive calls, I can't t hear them over the speakers does anyone know a fix for this by any chance?
I actuslly found the fix to this, just in case it happens to anyone else. The problem was that only the front speakers have call audio output. Therefore, if you are installing a dsp or line output converter, you need to conect it to the front speakers (I originally conected to the rear speakers only because of easier access).
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