Spec + wilwood cmc = leak?

Saw a post not too long ago from @Thanks_Enjoi about a fluid leak coming through the fire wall under his clutch pedal. He has the spec 2+ with wilwood cmc (same as me). After reading that, I went and looked under my pedal and it looked dry.

fast forward a week to today and i actually got underneath the car and got a better look and did notice a fluid beading right off the rubber grommet and the bottom part of the clutch pedal was wet.
I thought my headaches with spec were behind me, but apparently not!
I switched to the upgraded cmc which fixed the lockout issue, but negatively made the pedal much stiffer and now apparently the increased flow or pressure creates a leak.
The line coming from the slave master cylinder appears dry so I am assuming it’s the CMC.
Is there a fix for this other than going back to stock ?
Heres some pics. First is @Thanks_Enjoi ’s car, second is mine.
Any help is appreciated

My initial thought is incompatible fluid regarding the seals may be at fault. Does Wilwood spec a fluid? Regardless it will need new seals or replacement.

Gotch said:

My initial thought is incompatible fluid regarding the seals may be at fault. Does Wilwood spec a fluid? Regardless it will need new seals or replacement.

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I don't see any fluid requirements in the datasheet. The bleeding procedure says to use one of two Wilwood fluids but does not state it is a requirement. It does say it is a requirement to not use DOT 5, and to only use DOT 3, 4, or 5.1 fluid.

I have not had time to look to much in to my car but I havent drove it. But that's the spot my car is leaking. My car does lock out though. Mainly 1st and reverse. I have to use a crap ton of force. It has been like that since I switched. It wasnt much in the beginning but recently it was almost once daily. I'm seriously considering parting out and moving on to something more tried and true.

JT Si said:

I don't see any fluid requirements in the datasheet. The bleeding procedure says to use one of two Wilwood fluids but does not state it is a requirement. It does say it is a requirement to not use DOT 5, and to only use DOT 3, 4, or 5.1 fluid.

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I’m sure it has the oem fluid which is either DOT 3 or 4. I just find it odd that a 2 month old part would need to be replaced on 2 separate cars. Its not even my daily driver with a lot of miles :/

Thanks_Enjoi said:

I have not had time to look to much in to my car but I havent drove it. But that's the spot my car is leaking. My car does lock out though. Mainly 1st and reverse. I have to use a crap ton of force. It has been like that since I switched. It wasnt much in the beginning but recently it was almost once daily. I'm seriously considering parting out and moving on to something more tried and true.

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I’m in the same boat man. I don’t do the work myself and I’ve spent so much money on this clutch issue. Also, considering cutting my losses and moving on

It is dot 3 stock. I went to dot 4, this was after I saw fluid.

It blows that I now live in Hawaii. Not as many potential buyers if and when I part.

Thanks_Enjoi said:

It is dot 3 stock. I went to dot 4, this was after I saw fluid.

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Any change?

I dont have any additional fluid building up though my reservoir is obviously missing fluid.

You spec guys have had so many issues, I probably have nearly 20k on my clutchmasters without a problem other than the chatter. Eman's CMC helped a ton with it, but eventually I want to go to a type r clutch and flywheel from Eman. That is probably what I would suggest to you, for some reason clutch companies can't get it right on these cars.

ebatr24 said:

You spec guys have had so many issues, I probably have nearly 20k on my clutchmasters without a problem other than the chatter. Eman's CMC helped a ton with it, but eventually I want to go to a type r clutch and flywheel from Eman. That is probably what I would suggest to you, for some reason clutch companies can't get it right on these cars.

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In hindsight i would have gone with this route. Problem would be with the downtime i would have. I’m in Florida and i would have been without the car for at least a week. At this point I can’t justify spending another +/- $1,000 for retro fit kit, $600 to install, plus $150 or whatever for his cmc upgrade when i already spend over $2k on this spec clutch/ flywheel, wilwood cmc + labor. I’d be nearing 4k on clutch related expenses. It’s just crazy when I think about it. I need a fix that doesn’t require opening the transmission again or I’ll probably just move on to a better platform

Definitely not going a different clutch route. This car is not worth it.

Thanks_Enjoi said:

Definitely not going a different clutch route. This car is not worth it.

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100% I am going to contact @k20z3allmotor to see if his cmc would help it. If not, i'll probably part out.

BoostedDreams said:

100% I am going to contact @k20z3allmotor to see if his cmc would help it. If not, i'll probably part out.

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It is pretty unfortunate, it really isn't the car though it is Spec that is to blame in this scenario man. It is a major investment to go Type R clutch and flywheel, having driven a Type R I can say the car drives great especially the clutch. The Type R clutch and flywheel would be massive improvement to how the car drives.