Possible detonation.... Advice?

Recently, I seem to be getting a “pining” noise when under load. I thought maybe it could be bad gas, so I have changed stations and even tried ethanol free.
It continues.... It seems to only happen under load, and not all the time.
The sound itself, is kind of a metallic popping noise. It almost sounds like it resonates through the exhaust.
I tried resetting the ECU as well as different gas. No check engine lights and no extreme smoke or anything.
I have Mishi intake and front mount. And around 28,000 miles with no other issues at all...
Any suggestions before I go to the dealer?

I went to the dealer, they basically told me without a check engine light or full on failure there was nothing they can do.... So I’m on my own.
Thinking about Hondata so that I’d be able to datalog and find an issue?

It sounds like you're running lean. I know on Subies anytime you put on a mod you need a tune. I know Mishimoto advertises no tune required but try taking off the intake since it can alter the air to fuel ratio.

doctorbee said:

It sounds like you're running lean. I know on Subies anytime you put on a mod you need a tune.Try taking off the intake since it can alter the air to fuel ratio.

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Yes I would do this to learn the ECU back closer to factory trims with driving over a longer period (say a week of daily use). Or just pull the negative cable to reset some base level adjustments that have been made over time.

I highly recommend occasional resets of these computers ( within reason. because you could over-do it.... say once every 6 months or 10k)

Would adding Hondata void your warranty? It looks like you have 8k miles remaining?

Sully311 said:

I went to the dealer, they basically told me without a check engine light or full on failure there was nothing they can do.... So I’m on my own.
Thinking about Hondata so that I’d be able to datalog and find an issue?

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fatherpain said:

Would adding Hondata void your warranty? It looks like you have 8k miles remaining?

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I’d say it will most definitely void any remaining warranty. But to me, the warranty seems useless anyways. So the benefits out-way any bad.

PowerPerLiter said:

Yes I would do this to learn the ECU back closer to factory trims with driving over a longer period (say a week of daily use). Or just pull the negative cable to reset some base level adjustments that have been made over time.

I highly recommend occasional resets of these computers ( within reason. because you could over-do it.... say once every 6 months or 10k)

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I’ll give this a try and see how it does. If it helps, I’ll probably be leaning even more towards getting a tuning solution.
I appreciate the input

have you tried higher ron fuel?
also, do you have access to a code reader? something like Torque should give some insight to whats going on with live data.

veehexx said:

have you tried higher ron fuel?
also, do you have access to a code reader? something like Torque should give some insight to whats going on with live data.

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I have tried just about all of the different fuel I have access to within where I am located. It has all been 92.
I need to get a code reader and try to see if it will tell me anything, I have not yet.