Does the 1.5T not work in the winter?I bought mine specifically because it got the 2.0. Need something that works in winter too
Thereâs also a catted and catless from RV6 for the 2.0
Yeah my 1.5T just doesn't work in the winterI bought mine specifically because it got the 2.0. Need something that works in winter too
Probably, but my mileage hasnât changed with the tune though. Itâs just more powerful
You have a good point about the changeover. On the new 2.0 it has more available torque at low rpm than the old 2.0. So the changeover just continues the pull. Itâs actually a smooth transitionJust a WAG but... I guess itâd make sense in a way for VTEC engagement to be at the top of the RPM range on the CVTs if thatâs just below where RPMs lock during peak acceleration and hold the valves more shut for drivability down low but choke it out from making substantial power unless youâre absolutely at peak RPMs. Not much sense for a manual though. Then again, Honda never seems to have picked the optimum crossover for maximizing the area under a power curve. The old A2 had practically choked out by the time they had crossover... the âVTEC kicker in yoâ wasnât really a good thing. It showed how poor the car was making power before the cross over... I suppose to just hold a window large enough to allow shifting at redline and holding RPMs past the engagement point. The fact torque had long peaked and crashing long before VTEC crossover made for a practically hesitant stock tune as you reached 5000 RPMs.
The old A3 had VTEC-E though for efficiency way down low. If these C2s have traditional VTEC, intake side only albeit, itâs odd that they picked virtually the same crossover as the old A2s. The A2s still had a 2000 RPM of room to grow. I think this is ultimately the Achilles heel of the engine as even with a lowered engagement point, I donât know that youâd stay in the VTEC engagement range for the engine on a manual, even shifting at redline... and all those noticeable gains are right there at the tippy tip of the power band.
Still, that 22 whp bump, even if the window is pretty narrow ought to be quite noticeable given the power levels youâre starting with. Like the A3s... youâre just out of room to rev as things should be getting interesting.
Good news is, if you decide the tuner juice isnât worth the squeeze (and if your sticking with the car, I think itâll be the best bang for the buck you can get) you can always flash back to stock, unlock and resell it for the majority of what you paid for it.
Maybe, CT Engineering made superchargers for the older NA K-series cars... but they went under late last year. Iâve heard Hondaâs move to providing factory turbo cars really crushed them (they make super chargers for the K20/K24 carâs all my with the F20/22 S2000s and whatever the 1st gen NSXs has). There is a thread or two about head swapping the K20C2... and with a head swap, grabbing a used CTE SCer might be the best bang for the buck out there for power. Maybe theyâd work with the existing head, but Iâve got no idea. There already one brave/foolish soul who cobbled together a turbo kit and paid a good deal of money to match the performance of a reflashed L15B7.
Making a turbo kit for the car isn't the problem. The problem is the lack of a non-standalone, tuning solution.
I think stock odysseys are fasterThat BMW had to be crazy slow. 16.9 in the 1/4 is definitely not blazing.
Thanks for posting the numbers though.Look forward to your times with the KTuner and hopefully you can post the timeslip. You'll be much faster with the tune, better tires and reduced weight.
