Lust's FK8 Civic Type R Track & Street Build

boosted180sx said:

car looks fantastic.
can't wait to get my hands on that hood.

still waiting to hear your thoughts on the grille + hood combo as those will be my next set of mods along with the radiator/oil cooler.
(i guess more so, if you think it's worth the $400 that evasive is charging for their cut out grille)

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Thanks! I think it’s worth it for 200 if you can get yours cut locally. I notice my IATs drop much more rapidly with the hood vent and cut grill. At highway speeds I see IATs 15-20 degrees above ambient with just these two mods.

Sweetspeed said:

Can you post a pic of where you mounted the hood pins? I’m about to install my hood this weekend

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Pictures are on page two of this thread

Been waiting a while to post this one but here it is. My current PB at Laguna Seca.

I forgot to ask. How was the fitment of the Varis hood? Also, are the contours underneath very similar to OEM? I've been told it will work with GruppeM intake but still a little nervous about fitment.

Z06Chris said:

I forgot to ask. How was the fitment of the Varis hood? Also, are the contours underneath very similar to OEM? I've been told it will work with GruppeM intake but still a little nervous about fitment.

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Fitment is great as you would expect. I can take a pic later today. The hood is actually getting some PPF as we speak.

Z06Chris said:

I forgot to ask. How was the fitment of the Varis hood? Also, are the contours underneath very similar to OEM? I've been told it will work with GruppeM intake but still a little nervous about fitment.

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https://imgur.com/a/oVJ5g41

Wish I could somehow get a template of your cuts for when I install hood pins.

Z06Chris said:

Wish I could somehow get a template of your cuts for when I install hood pins.

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I’d recommend taking it to someone who’s done it before. I didn’t even trust myself to do it lol

Lust said:

I’d recommend taking it to someone who’s done it before. I didn’t even trust myself to do it lol

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I've done a few and I honestly trust myself with doing a cleaner job than a shop... I'm going to ask a shop that painted all my buddy's RWB stuff though and see if they can install it how I'd like.

Slowly getting back into the groove of things.

I was at Laguna Seca yesterday with Drive TrackTime club. Only 30 cars in attendance which meant no traffic! Lot's of cool cars ranging from GT3 RS, GT4 Clubsport, GT350Rs, etc.
I managed a 1:45 pace in the 79 degree weather and RS4 tires. I didn't want to push the car too hard since I was on completely stock brakes and factory fill for engine oil. The car currently only has wheels, tires and springs as it sits.





With the grill cut out and Varis cooling bonnet, I saw ECT temps peak at around 235 but remained consistent around 220. Mind you, I am also running a Stage 1 basemap from KTuner. I'm pleased with the current status of the car but I'll still be adding things to further reduce ECT, IAT, and oil temps so stay tuned.

Brakes were really holding me back in terms of pushing the car for lap times. The pad would get overheated in just 2-3 laps which ruined my confidence in the heavy braking zones like T2, T8, and T11.

In light of this track day I plan to install this brake package that's been sitting in my garage. SakeBombGarage 2 piece front rotors, SakeBombGarage SS brake lines, ProjectMU Racing 999 front pads, ProjectMU Club Racer rear pads, titanium brake pad shims, and Endless RF650 fluid to top it off.



Figured I'd check the catch can after 5 track sessions and ~4,000 street miles. This is what I found in the can.

No go fast mods this weekend but I did end up doing a full detail on the CTR. This includes paint correction and ceramic coating.

The car has been uncoated since I bought it back in April. Yea I know... too long. The car was heavily contaminated with iron and tar and had some light dealer installed swirl marks.
I went ahead and did a full decontamination using IronX, TarX, and a clay mitt. I followed up with Gyeon Foam for a pre soak and did a hand wash using Chemical Guys Clean Slate. The new MTM Hydro Foam Cannon with the Gyeon Foam made some crazy thick foam!

Now with the paint squeaky clean, I proceeded to the polishing phase. Most swirls were really light so I felt I could do a 1 step on the entire car and get excellent results. I paired up Sonax Perfect Finish and Meguiars DA Microfiber Finishing Discs onto my Rupes LHR15II DA Polisher. This combo for me removed 95% of the defects in just one step. Some areas I had to do an extra pass but no biggie. Really amazed by the results of the Sonax Perfect Finish Polish. I highly recommend it.



I wiped the entire car down with Gyeon Prep to remove an residual oils to get ready for the ceramic coating. I went with another Kamikaze product this time around since I had excellent results with Miyabi coat on my blue CTR. Zipang was the new kid on the block and looked really promising so I figured I'd try it out. Supposed to have superior durability with some semi self healing characteristics which is the first we've seen in ceramic coatings. The coating is super easy to apply. The included applicator is junk TBH. I recommend buying some pipettes to get the coating onto the applicator. I applied one even coat and buffed off one panel at a time. I used two towels per panel to ensure I removed all of the residual coating. Once the entire car was done I walked around and did a final wipe to get any remaining coating that may have spread to adjacent panels.







I let the car sit overnight before applying Kamikaze Overcoat. This is a sacrificial later and adds some insane hydrophobic properties.
So far I am very pleased with the Zipang coat and can't wait until I take it out of the garage once its fully cured. Stay tuned for final impressions and some high quality pics.

Some iPhone XS pics

I was on the fence about purchasing SPC camber arms again because I felt that the rear camber provided by the natural drop was sufficient. Looking back at my last alignment, I wasn't happy with how camber was so different on each side of the car. I went ahead and purchased the SPC forged aluminum camber arms and had them installed along with my existing HKS oil cooler.



I asked my installer to set the rear camber to -2.7 and max out front camber.
Toe settings are quite conservative and left at 0 front and .09 in rear. He was nice enough to let me sit in the car while aligning it just to dial it all in.
I'm having a huge problem keeping the alignment on this car. I feel like it needs to get aligned every few months.... I hope someone comes out with a solution to lock down the toe in these cars. Rear camber might seem a little excessive but even with -2.5 in the rear I was reaching the wear indicator and slightly going past. I can't seem to get enough front camber either. Now I need to figure a solution to even out the front.

Nonetheless, after the alignment and camber arm install, the car felt way sharper and much more precise. I guess darty would be another way to describe it too. I'm not sure if it's from the new alignment, the SPC arms, or both but I'm very pleased with how the car is driving. I might add a stiffer rear sway bar to get some more rotation.

There's something about Sagas that usually looks weird to me, but this fitmet/color looks great.

Ouhei said:

There's something about Sagas that usually looks weird to me, but this fitmet/color looks great.

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Thanks! I agree 100%. I wasn't a fan of my previous Face 3 Sagas but the Face 4s have a real nice concave that makes the wheel look more like the original. Can't argue with the new technology though. With this car weighing in over 3,000 lbs I'd prefer the stronger Saga over the OG.

Hey.. Sorry to hear about what happen to your first fk8...

XPEL Ultimate PPF on entire front clip, side skirts, rear spats, and rear bumper applique.

I know you've had a lot of experience with having your type r as a daily..

I was wondering what you mean by rear spats and rear bumper applique that you out PPF on?

Anyone have any other areas recommended to ppf?