2018 Premium Audio System

EasyFrag

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One can only wish. Doubtful though. It's more likely that a Maestro RR will come out before then
So I asked about the possibility for a Maestro for our cars. They said it will be covered in the upcoming HO4 release, but they wouldn't say when that would be.
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kperalta

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So I asked about the possibility for a Maestro for our cars. They said it will be covered in the upcoming HO4 release, but they wouldn't say when that would be.
Between 1-2 years. The RR2 is sick too. It'll have the ability to keep the lane watch and stuff like that. I was at a training for car audio companies and they demonstrated the ability to do that. For cars that don't have it, it can read turn signals from the data lines and activate a camera for both left and right.
 

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Can anyone give detailed instruction from start to finish on how to download viper4android and use it . None of what I’ve been reading has been helpful
 

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Yes, these are the steps. You will need to grant root access to busybox and V4A through SuperSU for each step to succeed.
Then you should use the HU menu to set the V4A as the default sound processor (instead of the system one) - it's in the Android menu
also I found it helpful to lock the V4A in headphone mode when using Spotify through Android Auto, as it has the most settings available to play with. Currently I use the equalizer plus the clarity effect and it sounds great.
How do you grant access and root it?
 

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Found this video interesting:

If you forward to 17:01, he does a review of the sound system and he is raving about how good it sounds. You can really hear the bass in his system! I couldn't believe it since my 19 CTR sounds really bad, with almost no bass from the sub. As far as I know, all the cars he test drives are usually sent directly from the manufacturer. I just recently installed V4A via Honda Hack and now the system sounds decent but I wonder if Honda changed something recently with the sound system settings because I don't know why anyone would rave about the "Premium" Honda system. Also it makes me wonder if my CTR has a faulty sound system :(
 


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I don't want to jump the gun, but I am fast heading towards the conclusion that the optimum way to improve the Honda Premium Sound system is.

(1) Upgrade the front door speakers, and the center speaker, and fit suitable sound absorbing materials

(2) Upgrade the SUB Woofer, and fit suitable sound absorbing materials

(3) Drive the new Sub Woofer by a modest "CLASS D" amp with about 100-200 watts RMS (no need to go crazy), and use an amp that has a built in DSP of a minimum of 3 "independently tune-able" channel input.
Feed those 3 inputs with Front Left, Front Right and original Sub.

A Class D amp is ideal for the SUB amp, and will consume far less power, generate far less heat, and be a lot smaller.

This will allow you to have the option to tune the Sub to whatever you want.
Just Loud Thumps
or
Bass Audio up to the high end cut off of the Sub
or a combination of both.

While it is possible to come some way towards this with the fixed and somewhat limited LCi2 and an amp, the cost of both those items is typically more than an amp with a built in DSP, which is a much more tune-able solution, to give you whatever Sub response you want.

Defiantly, feeding a LC2i with just the Honda sub output, and fitting a 1000+ watt amp, is not, in my opinion, the best way to go, unless your objectives are to shake yourself and the car to pieces without actually "hearing" any of the bass instruments in the music your are listening to.
great thread :thumbsup:
I have finished that first point :) door speakers Hertz CK 165, center Hertz DCX 87.3 and damping material in front doors

a want add new subwoofer and something like LC2i but i am afraid to wire near factory amplifier

Honda Civic 10th gen 2018 Premium Audio System 64319673_367890530598324_7673692684782927872_n



will be the signal from the rear R+L speakers and the oem subwoofer much worse than front R+L + oem sub?
 
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SCOPESYS

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great thread :thumbsup:



will be the signal from the rear R+L speakers and the oem subwoofer much worse than front R+L + oem sub?
YES, do NOT us the REAR speakers as the source for your Filtered (LC2i) input for the sub. The Bass going to the front has a much lower LOW Frequency cutoff, so you will get far more Bass using the FRONT speakers as your source,

Do you really need/want more Bass ???

Before going through all of the work of installing an alternative Sub system (Filter, amp, sub, enclosure etc etc), you might consider, while car is in garage or driveway, temporarily putting a LARGE home Stereo speaker in the back of the car, driving it from the Home stereo amp, turn up the Bass, and really find out if this is what you want to bombard your ears with, when driving !!
 

xenon04

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I'm not a fan of shaking car with loud music but I miss more bass at low volume now :)
I tried Viper4android and that was better but it needs to be set for each source (usb/DAB/Android Auto).
I listen a high quality music through Android Auto - Spotify
 
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I replaced my center channel with the popular JL Audio 3.5 inch speaker recommended on this forum. I also used the 3.5 in baffle also recommended. After hours of listening the baffle appears to muddy the sound especially at a certain middle frequency that causes a noticeable humming at said frequency. I thought it was something vibrating but it wasn't. I removed the baffle and listed to the same tracks where that occurred and it completely clean now. Is it possible that the baffle causes some harmonic distortion at a resonating frequency inside the baffle?

Second topic, if I add a powered sub(under seat), will it work creating the resistor network tapping front left/right into right input and sub into left input without an LC2i? Any issues with timing? What does the LC2i fix that I would be missing?
 

kperalta

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I replaced my center channel with the popular JL Audio 3.5 inch speaker recommended on this forum. I also used the 3.5 in baffle also recommended. After hours of listening the baffle appears to muddy the sound especially at a certain middle frequency that causes a noticeable humming at said frequency. I thought it was something vibrating but it wasn't. I removed the baffle and listed to the same tracks where that occurred and it completely clean now. Is it possible that the baffle causes some harmonic distortion at a resonating frequency inside the baffle?

Second topic, if I add a powered sub(under seat), will it work creating the resistor network tapping front left/right into right input and sub into left input without an LC2i? Any issues with timing? What does the LC2i fix that I would be missing?
You don't need to do that resistor thing or whatever anyways, a powered sub can't hit that low even if that resistor set up is worth it. I promise, unless you're sitting than with an RTA for hours on end judging your output you won't notice any difference if you just use the fronts. An lc2i will fix bass roll off, not add bass.

If you do go powered sub, buy this. Do keep in mind though you have to order it from amazon.co.uk as in the US this product is 800$. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Focal-IBus-20-Active-Subwoofer/dp/B007Z05C6U
 


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You don't need to do that resistor thing or whatever anyways, a powered sub can't hit that low even if that resistor set up is worth it. I promise, unless you're sitting than with an RTA for hours on end judging your output you won't notice any difference if you just use the fronts. An lc2i will fix bass roll off, not add bass.

If you do go powered sub, buy this. Do keep in mind though you have to order it from amazon.co.uk as in the US this product is 800$. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Focal-IBus-20-Active-Subwoofer/dp/B007Z05C6U
Not sure if I agree. I am looking at the JBL Bass Pro SL which has some of the best reviews around, has a frequency response of 35Hz-120Hz and is only $250. Looking at the higher roll off of the front speakers, I would want the sub signal to make sure I have all available low end frequencies.

https://www.jbl.com/car-subwoofers/...ck-GLOBAL-Current&cgid=car-subwoofers#start=1
 

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Is it possible that the baffle causes some harmonic distortion at a resonating frequency inside the baffle?
There's all kind of weird comb-filtering and phase issues that *can* happen. But if it sounds better to your ear without the baffle; certainly remove the baffle.

Re: the powered subs... I'd try and find a place where I could audition them with my own ear. The specs are the specs. But there's a bunch of things that should sound good on paper that just don't. And verse-vica.

Above all: Don't let it give ya' a headache. The point of the whole thing is to enjoy it.

Good luck.
 

kperalta

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Not sure if I agree. I am looking at the JBL Bass Pro SL which has some of the best reviews around, has a frequency response of 35Hz-120Hz and is only $250. Looking at the higher roll off of the front speakers, I would want the sub signal to make sure I have all available low end frequencies.

https://www.jbl.com/car-subwoofers/BASSPRO+SL.html?dwvar_BASSPRO SL_color=Black-GLOBAL-Current&cgid=car-subwoofers#start=1
I'm well aware of the JBL bass pro. It is a great product, but regardless of it's frequency range and reviews it does not hit deep. I have installed in at least 4 times and each time I swear to while it hits deep, it's still only a sub I recommend for people who listen to rock/metal and punchy pop or people who strictly don't want to lose space or have no space to lose, aka I raaarely sell it.

On my list of cheap all-in-one shallow subs the JBL is easily top 3, but again, despite what it says it can hit, that doesn't mean it does it well. Most subs will have a 30-200hz freq response but if a customer asks me to set the crossover to 200hz then asks me why it sounds like shit I'd simply tell that while it can reproduce those frequencies that doesn't mean it does it well it just means it won't destroy itself trying. Anyways.

Quoting specifically the homie @SCOPESYS, these are the freq charts he's determined and that's all the data I have in regards to it aside from my own experience installing subs in civics (not my own).

Honda Civic 10th gen 2018 Premium Audio System 20190910_134314

That's the front in a premium system which is what tourings have. In his scale, the highest point is around 80hz or so. Everything including significant amounts of mid-bass ranges from 10hz - 20hz less than that peak of around 80hz. While I don't think the system sounds the best considering I've had a touring for over 3 years, I cannot say that using a proper source (I use android auto aka USB) that the system lacks mid bass to the point that I can't hear it. So despite that 10-20db decrease @ MAX non clipping output, my best uncomfortably loud output @23 on the factory output is perfectly fine. Do keep in mind, at max output, most system including ours will severely decrease the bass which we all know as bass rolloff.

Honda Civic 10th gen 2018 Premium Audio System 20190910_134408


This is the sub. Again, I can't verify as I don't use the sub channels at all because they usually suck. But according to this chart @ MAX unclipped output you primarily get 10-45hz.

I installed this: https://www.jlaudio.com/acs112lg-tw1-car-audio-powerwedge-amplified-subwoofer-systems-93335 into a 2016 honda civic lx for a friend and tapped the front signals. Sure, his output is different, but as we all know the lx system severly lacks bass. Despite this, and despite the amount of time I spent properly tuning the sub and little amp it has the only complaint my friend has even to this day... Is that the sub isn't as loud as the 2 10" and a 12" he had in a previous car. Not once has he told me that it doesn't get deep. I put a straight 40hz test tone to it to getting the gains right as I did it at home and it rattled the whole car. I've listened to it for hours on end playing every single song I use to test subs and then some. This wasn't even using an LC2i.

Anyways, that's just one example. But hey, do whatever makes you happy. But to be honest if it were me and I insisted on grabbing the sub channel, I wouldn't even do shit with resistors. I would just use the front left and sub output. But if ya really wanna go crazy and get absolutely every single frequency you can, buy an LC7i and put the Front and Rear and Sub inputs into it, set the LC7i to sum the all the inputs into one output and cross it over at the sub amp. Just keep in mind the lc7i costs almost as much as that wonderful little bass pro.
 

piterek

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Thanks for this thead @SCOPESYS .

Tapped into the front speakers over the weekend and now feeding these, and the sub channel into my amp. No external DSP in my case.

Sound definitely tightened up and expanded, and I can manage the sub out channel effect with the SUBW level control. Will probably modify the sub enclosure next year and replace the shallow mount with something better, but as is now is a significant improvement.

Wonder if the center channel is doing us any favour by muddying up stereo separation. Will disconnect and have a listen. With my luck, the channel is used for BT phone and announcement / alert audio.:(
 

kperalta

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Thanks for this thead @SCOPESYS .

Tapped into the front speakers over the weekend and now feeding these, and the sub channel into my amp. No external DSP in my case.

Sound definitely tightened up and expanded, and I can manage the sub out channel effect with the SUBW level control. Will probably modify the sub enclosure next year and replace the shallow mount with something better, but as is now is a significant improvement.

Wonder if the center channel is doing us any favour by muddying up stereo separation. Will disconnect and have a listen. With my luck, the channel is used for BT phone and announcement / alert audio.:(
So you originally had only the sub channel, then added the fronts? Nice.

Front speakers are used for Bluetooth audio, center is used for alerts and navigation.
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