DIY: Front Door Panel Removal and Speaker Upgrade

Anthonyjc

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Im more of a visual leaner. Could someone please post a video of this process? I only need to know how to take the door panel off.
Also, I will post a video when I remove my door panels again to hook up my front speakers to the AMP. May take a little. There are photos though up above that show how to do it. Its very simple. The WINDOW and LOCK area pops off with the correct tools. Un hook the connectors and then remove the single screw. Then the entire door panel pops off.
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skullan

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I have never pulled a door panel.

I am not afraid to, but I am curious before I do, are the speakers protected from the water that will naturally fall in from the window seals some how?
The pictures while great, don't give me any indication that is the case due to the perspective.
 

Brandons2697

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I have never pulled a door panel.

I am not afraid to, but I am curious before I do, are the speakers protected from the water that will naturally fall in from the window seals some how?
The pictures while great, don't give me any indication that is the case due to the perspective.
The speaker is not covered by the sound liner in the door panel. Once you remove the door panel, the speaker is visible. I don't think you would have a problem with water getting onto it, but if that is a concern, I would wipe it away before removing anything. I don't recommend removing any part of the car while it's wet.
 

skullan

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The speaker is not covered by the sound liner in the door panel. Once you remove the door panel, the speaker is visible. I don't think you would have a problem with water getting onto it, but if that is a concern, I would wipe it away before removing anything. I don't recommend removing any part of the car while it's wet.
Thanks for the reply. I wasn't really wondering if it was covered by the sound liner in the door panel, from the pictures I can see that it isn't.

I was more wondering how the door structure (not the liner) keeps the speaker from getting wet due to water intrusion from the seals up top.
There are drain holes in the bottom of doors for this reason.

Or is this more of a case of, the speakers are going to get wet but they are built to be waterproof?
 
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makemerush

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Thanks for the reply. I wasn't really wondering if it was covered by the sound liner in the door panel, from the pictures I can see that it isn't.

I was more wondering how the door structure (not the liner) keeps the speaker from getting wet due to water intrusion from the seals up top.
There are drain holes in the bottom of doors for this reason.

Or is this more of a case of, the speakers are going to get wet but they are built to be waterproof?
You need speakers that are moisture resistant/marine-certified, ideally.

My doors had plenty of moisture in them. It was winter so there are many possible explanations for that though.
 


skullan

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amarok

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Finally everything is done. Sound so good

Here how I connect them. I tap LC2i to rear speakers and connect it to amp by rca cable (bass signal from rear speakers is punch but not deep enough). High level input on amp tap into subwoofer (now i have deep bass but the bass is unbalance). It took me about 20 minutes to adjust on lc2i and amp. Now the bass is punchy and really deep. I love it.

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Hey so i'm not going to lie I am a total noob here and have never done any audio work on a car.
I really like your set up and would like to duplicate it, from the looks of it i will need to get the sub, the amp, and the lc2i. Is there anything else i need to buy, cables ect or does that come with those items.
Also if its not too much could you give a brief summery of the steps involved in doing this?? I'm not completely lost when it comes to working on a car i just have never done any wiring.
 

inv4zn

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Hey so i'm not going to lie I am a total noob here and have never done any audio work on a car.
I really like your set up and would like to duplicate it, from the looks of it i will need to get the sub, the amp, and the lc2i. Is there anything else i need to buy, cables ect or does that come with those items.
Also if its not too much could you give a brief summery of the steps involved in doing this?? I'm not completely lost when it comes to working on a car i just have never done any wiring.
Take it to a local audio shop.

The benefits of spending a extra few hundred you'd pay far outweighs the amount of headaches you will encounter trying to install it, while installing it, and after you install it.

There are many things that you can screw up, including crossing wires, creative fire hazards by not fusing your setup properly, etc., etc.,.

Just pay.
 

solsticephase

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*This isn't a real tutorial because I have too much work to do this week and won't have time to do a step by step, but I thought it might still help some*

Honda Civic 10th gen DIY: Front Door Panel Removal and Speaker Upgrade de3c80a5bb389c58d636_1
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Do you think you would be able to do a step by step guide? I've been looking for one but I don't think anyone has done one for 2016.
 

al1987mtz

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Do you think you would be able to do a step by step guide? I've been looking for one but I don't think anyone has done one for 2016.
Im replacing my speakers soon. Ill try to take detailed pictures and do a step by step. I already added amp+sub.
 


FlossBandit

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Finally everything is done. Sound so good

Here how I connect them. I tap LC2i to rear speakers and connect it to amp by rca cable (bass signal from rear speakers is punch but not deep enough). High level input on amp tap into subwoofer (now i have deep bass but the bass is unbalance). It took me about 20 minutes to adjust on lc2i and amp. Now the bass is punchy and really deep. I love it.

image.jpeg


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How did you keep it all from sliding around in that trunk tray? I had 2 12's in the back that weren't hooked up yet and they slammed every time I touched the brake pedal. At first I thought I'd tack a grip mat (like below) to the bottom of the sub, but it looks like that's going to be even more slippery than the bottom of the sub with nothing on it. Next I'm thinking velcro, using both adhesive sides, but wanted to see what other options were.

Honda Civic 10th gen DIY: Front Door Panel Removal and Speaker Upgrade grip_mat
 
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makemerush

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How did you keep it all from sliding around in that trunk tray? I had 2 12's in the back that weren't hooked up yet and they slammed every time I touched the brake pedal. At first I thought I'd tack a grip mat (like below) to the bottom of the sub, but it looks like that's going to be even more slippery than the bottom of the sub with nothing on it. Next I'm thinking velcro, using both adhesive sides, but wanted to see what other options were.

Honda Civic 10th gen DIY: Front Door Panel Removal and Speaker Upgrade grip_mat
Industrial Velcro worked really well for me!
 

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I have an EX-T and I bought the HSB524 speaker adapters. They don't fit the hole left behind after removing the lower door speakers. The bolt goes in fine up top, but the bottom just overhangs (it's too big).

Is this normal?

Anyway, I put a bunch of AC window foam tape to tighten it up/prevent rattles. I did a listen and it sounds awesome, so maybe it's fine?

Edit: For anyone else that doesn't have a touring, the adapter we need is a different part number.

82-7805

That's the correct part number for us. I'll probably just cut out the factory speakers from its bracket and re-use that.
 
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Aebm

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I replaced all speakers with db651 and db840. All tweeters still connected and the sound are much much clearer but the sub is so weak so I decide to add another sub

Can you give me advices? Thankyou.
I want a sub for deep and punch.

Should i get sub in trunk or under seat?
What size of sub should i get? (I have a Rockford R500X1D amp)
What brand is good?
Hello and sorry for bringing this post back, I have the LX model and would like to replace the four 6.5 speakers, I want to install these Polk db651, (not the shallow model, I want to be able to aim the tweeters) will they fit too in the LX model? Front doors and rear deck?
I read it can be done on the Touring model but I don't know if it's possible on the LX with the Polks db651.
Thanks for the help.
 

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Did you have to drill extra holes into the door to mount the speakers?

I have an EX-T and I bought the HSB524 speaker adapters. They don't fit the hole left behind after removing the lower door speakers. The bolt goes in fine up top, but the bottom just overhangs (it's too big).

Is this normal?

Anyway, I put a bunch of AC window foam tape to tighten it up/prevent rattles. I did a listen and it sounds awesome, so maybe it's fine?

Edit: For anyone else that doesn't have a touring, the adapter we need is a different part number.

82-7805

That's the correct part number for us. I'll probably just cut out the factory speakers from its bracket and re-use that.
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