DIY Manual Transmission Fluid Change and Are They Different By Model Year?

baldheadracing

Senior Member
First Name
Craig
Joined
Jan 4, 2017
Threads
44
Messages
1,248
Reaction score
1,382
Location
Canada's capital
Vehicle(s)
FK8
Country flag
There is a difference when it comes to OEM and Amsoil, which is synthetic while the OEM is not. I changed it out on my first oil change (7K miles) and it made a huge difference. You can read the testimony of all those who did it
Plenty of people have changed their fluid and reported improvements. The question is: How much of that improvement is due to replacing the old fluid vs. how much is due to a change in the type of fluid? People with Type R's who have changed out their trans fluid with Honda's fluid have reported back improvements as well, for example.

Regardless, we've known for almost 20 years now that Honda transaxles have (relatively) weak synchros in (relatively) high-torque applications. People (often through no fault of their own) grind gears or have stiff shifts, the grind/delay is the synchro's sacrificing themselves (to protect the gears), the brass worn off of the synchro's gets into the fluid, the fluid degrades, people change fluid, and all is bliss for another 10k-15k miles (or whatever) - and then the cycle repeats itself. People back then thought ACDelco Syncromesh fluid was the solution - and it was - for 10k or 15k miles. Now people think it is AMSOil ... we'll find out in a few years.

BTW, I have no doubt that the shifting is better. I'm just saying no fluid is going to make synchro's stronger, or restore worn metal back onto mating surfaces.
Sponsored

 
Last edited:

joshhjackson2112

Senior Member
First Name
Josh
Joined
Jul 3, 2018
Threads
12
Messages
713
Reaction score
463
Location
Raleigh, North Carolina
Vehicle(s)
18' SI
Country flag
I feel like people are over analyzing this. Changing oil is good whether Honda genuine or aftermarket. This thread should stay on topic and be about the steps or tools and materials to changing out MTF in our cars.
 

baldheadracing

Senior Member
First Name
Craig
Joined
Jan 4, 2017
Threads
44
Messages
1,248
Reaction score
1,382
Location
Canada's capital
Vehicle(s)
FK8
Country flag
I feel like people are over analyzing this. Changing oil is good whether Honda genuine or aftermarket. This thread should stay on topic and be about the steps or tools and materials to changing out MTF in our cars.
To that end, the inspection bolt has such a low torque requirement (9ft-lbs) that I have never felt the need to change its 6mm crush washer. YMMV.
 

joshhjackson2112

Senior Member
First Name
Josh
Joined
Jul 3, 2018
Threads
12
Messages
713
Reaction score
463
Location
Raleigh, North Carolina
Vehicle(s)
18' SI
Country flag
I just did my MTF change with Amsoil synthetic. I can deff tell a difference. Worth the money for sure. Easy easy job.
This was my first transmission fluid change so I did not know entirely what to expect. One thing I was surprised about was how terrible the oil smells!! Oh my God the MTF smells absolutely horrible! Used motor oil has always smelt kinda good imo but this stuff was foul. Lol I could have used a heads up :p
 
OP
OP
MtnBikeAZ1

MtnBikeAZ1

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 7, 2018
Threads
4
Messages
55
Reaction score
80
Location
Tucson AZ
Vehicle(s)
2018 Civic Si Coupe
Country flag
Plenty of people have changed their fluid and reported improvements. The question is: How much of that improvement is due to replacing the old fluid vs. how much is due to a change in the type of fluid? People with Type R's who have changed out their trans fluid with Honda's fluid have reported back improvements as well, for example.

Regardless, we've known for almost 20 years now that Honda transaxles have (relatively) weak synchros in (relatively) high-torque applications. People (often through no fault of their own) grind gears or have stiff shifts, the grind/delay is the synchro's sacrificing themselves (to protect the gears), the brass worn off of the synchro's gets into the fluid, the fluid degrades, people change fluid, and all is bliss for another 10k-15k miles (or whatever) - and then the cycle repeats itself. People back then thought ACDelco Syncromesh fluid was the solution - and it was - for 10k or 15k miles. Now people think it is AMSOil ... we'll find out in a few years.

BTW, I have no doubt that the shifting is better. I'm just saying no fluid is going to make synchro's stronger, or restore worn metal back onto mating surfaces.
For the record, my car is relatively new. My car only had 9,000 miles on it when I changed the MTF, which is way before the required maintenance interval. My car shifts better with the AMSOIL. BUT the point of this thread is how to change the MTF.
 


OP
OP
MtnBikeAZ1

MtnBikeAZ1

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 7, 2018
Threads
4
Messages
55
Reaction score
80
Location
Tucson AZ
Vehicle(s)
2018 Civic Si Coupe
Country flag
Greetings from Toronto!

I have been regularly following this Civicx forum and it has been really informative thanks to you guys :) I don't know about States but here in Ontario, dealerships and local mechanic shops charge you an arm and a leg when you go for regular maintenance.

I have 2016 Honda Civic LX auto transmission which is a pretty basic economical car but not so cheap when you go out to get maintenance done. Honestly, you don't even know what the dealership is doing with your car behind the doors because they don't let you in to their shop because of so called 'Safety concerns'! :) That's why I started following this forum and started watching DIY youtube videos and started doing regular maintenance on my own.

So far I have been doing engine oil and filter replacement, engine air filter replacement, cabin air filter replacement. Recently, I finished driving 80 thousand KMs without any major issues. My car shows 'A 3' maintenance minder which is 'Transmission fluid replacement'. I have watched a few videos on youtube and read this thread to gain some knowledge and I think I'm confident enough to do this on my own.

Is it hard to do for a first timer ? Please, advice.

Thank you in advance,







QUOTE="MtnBikeAZ1, post: 603735, member: 23877"]My car shifts well, but after reading the rave reviews about AMSOIL Synthetic Manual Synchromesh Transmission Fluid posted by AMIRZA786 in his excellent thread Changed MTF to Amsoil Synchromesh, I am Happy! I thought I would give it a try. While this isn't a difficult DIY job, I'm posting the instructions for two reasons: 1. Help others learn their way around under the hood. 2. Are these MT's different? In AMIRZA786's post, he mentions needing two sizes of crush washer. A 20mm Washer, Drain Plug and a 6mm Washer, Sealing.
When I changed my MTF, I didn't find a need for the 6mm washer. The fill cap on the top of the transmission and the drain plug on the bottom are identical in size and the drain plug on the bottom uses the 20mm washer.
Did anyone that did this themselves need the 6mm washer? I'm just curious if there are variations in the 10th Gen MTs.
MTF Washer Suggested.jpg


Tools used: (Not shown in this picture are the oil drip pan and long neck funnel)
fullsizeoutput_beba.jpeg


Instructions:
1. Loosen the fill plug in the top of the transmission (its to the left of the airbox) using a 3/8" square drive. I used 15" of extensions and a breaker bar.

MpoL4daNSqWwDxAaOMMs5Q.jpg


2. Say hello to your gears! (The MT is not full of oil, 2 quarts is all that's required. I drained exactly 2 quarts from mine).
r1YvHoyqRJCLqqmRQZsEjQ.jpg


3. Put the car on ramps/lift/jack it up to get underneath.

4. Remove belly pan. There are 10 fasteners.
CXJe4ZFYS+OZj5VJnjpD3A.jpg


5. Position drip pan. I put some boards under mine to raise it up so there would be less of a mess from splashing.

6. Remove the drain plug. Located just to the right of the rear motor mount. Used breaker bar with 3 inch 3/8" square drive. Its identical to the fill plug removed from the top.

JfTFmshDTxiIgGKB2uXWjQ.jpg


7. Let the MTF drain fully.

8. Put a new 20mm washer on the drain plug. In the picture below, the top plug is the fill plug (no washer) and the bottom one is the drain plug with washer.

fullsizeoutput_beef.jpeg


9. Replace the drain plug with washer and tighten. If anyone has the spec torque value, please post.

10. Fill the MT with 2 quarts of MTF.

kc+2PNzQRemTDOR7lksz%Q.jpg


11. Replace the fill plug and tighten. If anyone has the spec torque value please post.

12. Done! Clean up and enjoy the smooth shifting!
WhatsApp Image 2019-05-20 at 1.37.58 PM.jpeg
[/QUOTE]
Not sure why this picture was added to the thread, it does not belong here. The picture shows the remaining Engine Oil life, not the status of the Manual Transmission Fluid which is what this thread is about.
Honda Civic 10th gen DIY Manual Transmission Fluid Change and Are They Different By Model Year? Screen Shot 2019-05-27 at 10.13.08 AM
 

MONK13

Senior Member
First Name
MIKE
Joined
Jan 10, 2019
Threads
13
Messages
131
Reaction score
87
Location
TEXAS
Vehicle(s)
2019 CIVIC Si
Country flag
Noob question alert!!

Why does the 20mm washer have to be replaced? Doesnt it already have a functioning 20mm washer? :wave:

My oil drain plug on my Tacoma has a washer, ive never needed to replace it, even forgot to install it during an oil change once or twice with no ill effects. :fear:
 

black18

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 26, 2018
Threads
8
Messages
64
Reaction score
62
Location
PA
Vehicle(s)
2018 Civic Si Sedan
Country flag
Noob question alert!!

Why does the 20mm washer have to be replaced? Doesnt it already have a functioning 20mm washer? :wave:

My oil drain plug on my Tacoma has a washer, ive never needed to replace it, even forgot to install it during an oil change once or twice with no ill effects. :fear:
not sure, the ones I ordered online when I changed my MTF didn't fit so I just left the original one on. it looked fine.
 

Phylanx

Senior Member
Joined
Sep 1, 2017
Threads
4
Messages
183
Reaction score
134
Location
Phoenix AZ
Vehicle(s)
'12 CRV, '17 Si Sedan
Country flag
They're crush washers and meant to be used once. As the proper torque spec is applied, they are meant to deform and form a seal when being tightened. I always replace the crush washers when doing Oil Change or Trans Fluid changes for peace of mind. It's not like they're that expensive.
 

Maximum6

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 14, 2016
Threads
28
Messages
377
Reaction score
85
Location
Las Vegas
Vehicle(s)
S2000 2005, Type R 2019
Country flag
Just reading the Torque spec sheet posted on page 1.

Looks like you are suppose to put the 20mm seal washer on Both Fill and Drain bolt
 


Mcclaughry95

500hp is the goal.
First Name
Ryan
Joined
Apr 17, 2019
Threads
17
Messages
494
Reaction score
272
Location
Central, Pa
Vehicle(s)
18 Civic Si
Country flag
The maintenance minder is only for the oil change. For MTF, just keep a record in your owners manual or on your computer/phone of when you did it and the mileage.
Maintenance Minder does tell us when it's time to change the MTF tho.
 

jscm

Senior Member
First Name
sam
Joined
Sep 8, 2018
Threads
31
Messages
204
Reaction score
73
Location
Inland Empire
Vehicle(s)
2017 civic si
Vehicle Showcase
1
Country flag
To that end, the inspection bolt has such a low torque requirement (9ft-lbs) that I have never felt the need to change its 6mm crush washer. YMMV.
Location of oil level check bolt (A), and 6mm washer (B). Car should be level for proper fluid level check.

As for fluid, I prefer Driven STF over AMSOil Synchromesh or factory fluid, but, TBH, the brand of fluid isn't that important unless you are tracking your Civic. People claiming one fluid is better than another are invariably comparing new fluid with old fluid, and gee, the new fluid seems to work better. The key thing to do when changing fluid is to get a magnet and preferably a borescope (they're so cheap now) in through the drain and entry points and have a look around inside. Transaxle fluid does not get filtration, so there will almost always be metal particles that should be flushed out. An oil change is also when the synchro's are to be checked for wear, gears inspected for nicks, etc.

4182_3.0_enu_14072397_3.0_disp.png
for the oil check bolt, does the car needs to be level?
 

Nitori

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 17, 2019
Threads
7
Messages
73
Reaction score
79
Location
Arizona
Vehicle(s)
2019 Civic Si Sedan, 2016 Toyota Tacoma
Country flag
Thanks for posting a thread about this, doing my change right now!

A word on the crush washer- if you find yourself in my situation and you don't have a washer and you've already drained it, don't panic because these are non-hollow aluminum type washers that you can reuse once or twice.
What I do is I just make a note on my maintenance log "reused crush washer" and make extra sure to buy a new one next time around. I know people who reuse them for the life of the car but I don't trust that. Replacing every time is good practice, but mostly CYA by Honda and all OEMs.

Whatever you do, don't go to your local auto parts store and buy a generic copper one, galvanic corrosion will bind it to your transmission casing and you will have a bad time.

Thanks for posting the link to the torque specs, that's excellent! I didn't notice any type of "liquid gasket" on my filler plug. Did you find any on yours when you changed your MTF?

MTF Torque Specs.png
Mine is clean as a whistle but holy crap was it hard to get started! I had my cheater bar out and I was pushing harder and harder and harder, then POW it let loose. Did the filler plug first as you're supposed to, then the drain was easy.

for the oil check bolt, does the car needs to be level?
Yes, that's standard practice. Always check when level.
 

jaydan1020

Senior Member
First Name
Jaydan
Joined
Jun 27, 2017
Threads
2
Messages
97
Reaction score
47
Location
Raeford, NC
Website
cjsynthetic.myamsoil.com
Vehicle(s)
2017 Civic Si. 2019 CR-V
Country flag
If anyone wants to purchase some Amsoil Synchromesh or any other Amsoil products I am your friendly neighborhood Amsoil dealer.

Cjsynthetic.myamsoil.com
Sponsored

 


 


Top