FK8 Break In Period and Oil Change

Sorry for the bump...but I'm @ 6200 miles and my maintenance minder still hasn't come on.

NorthernEX-T said:

@Cbarajas_ctr dont use the OEM filter,,, check out how bad it filters @ 20 microns! AMSOIL FTW.

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Amsoil Signature Series oil is not an API certified oil. The manual does state "Premium-grade 0W-20 detergent oil with an API Certification Seal on the container", so just like any mod...be cautious what you argue should something ever fail.

DRKSYD said:

Amsoil Signature Series oil is not an API certified oil. The manual does state "Premium-grade 0W-20 detergent oil with an API Certification Seal on the container", so just like any mod...be cautious what you argue should something ever fail.

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Yes Amsoil is API Certified.

https://www.amsoil.com/newsstand/motor-oil/articles/api-sn-plus-is-here/

Caestus said:

Yes Amsoil is API Certified.

https://www.amsoil.com/newsstand/motor-oil/articles/api-sn-plus-is-here/

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Yes it was reformulated meaning there's still a lot of old stock around. Would need that "donut" on the bottle to be sure you are getting that stuff.

DRKSYD said:

Yes it was reformulated meaning there's still a lot of old stock around. Would need that "donut" on the bottle to be sure you are getting that stuff.

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I do not think it was reformulated. Do you have more information of this? I believe they just finally paid to have their oil tested and approved despite the fact that it has always met or exceeded API certification.

Caestus said:

I do not think it was reformulated. Do you have more information of this? I believe they just finally paid to have their oil tested and approved despite the fact that it has always met or exceeded API certification.

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https://blog.amsoil.com/why-did-we-reformulate-signature-series-synthetic-motor-oil/

They did it to lower some of the detergents that were not allowing it to pass API originally.

DRKSYD said:

https://blog.amsoil.com/why-did-we-reformulate-signature-series-synthetic-motor-oil/

They did it to lower some of the detergents that were not allowing it to pass API originally.

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Oh wow I missed this. Thanks for finding this. Very interesting

More background on their API certification here (or lack thereof).

http://www.syntheticwarehouse.com/api_licensing.htm

Design said:

More background on their API certification here (or lack thereof).

http://www.syntheticwarehouse.com/api_licensing.htm

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Thank you for the information once again. More info, the better for everyone IMO! API is a rating ntl and I'm personally going for an oil that I've used and trusted so Amsoil SS will be going in. Sticking with 0-20W as I change it out every 6 months or 3K anyway. Excessive maybe but that's what I've always done and never lost an engine or had issues with one. Rather spend my money on the more frequent oil changes and power train maintenance vs. an "extended warranty" or something that is after the fact.

Will be using the Amsoil filter, OEM crush washer, and the SS oil.

Reading everyone’s oil change interval here scares me lol.

I’m almost at 11,000KM (6,800miles) and I still have 30% left according to the car.

I’ve never gone this far without an oil change but my last car was also a 2008.

I feel like I should take it to the dealer and change it.

It won't really improve things by changing out early, unless you're modded or approaching a year of operation. I explain why here:
https://www.civicx.com/threads/oil-change-frequency.27000/#post-454141

Design said:

It won't really improve things by changing out early, unless you're modded or approaching a year of operation. I explain why here:
https://www.civicx.com/threads/oil-change-frequency.27000/#post-454141

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Improve what? Changing earlier costs more but isn't meant too "improve" something?

If you live in a climate that is -20 to 110C during seasonal weather shifts, you don't fk around. I replace my oil based on season, not mileage. Your oil will become water "soaked" in the winter during cold start ups and gets worse with short drives. It only takes one particle "floating" in your oil to ruin your day. Your toilet can last days without flushing it and still work. I choose to be proactive and spend a little more to keep internals as clean as possible.

We all know cars can run on synthetic for years but that's not someone that cleans every bug off their car or parks in the back of the lot. I'm modded, but would still dump and refill twice a year at min based on weather. IMO again, but why skip a <$100 change for something that could wreck an engine if it got in there?

IHAVEAJEEP said:

I thought you (we) were supposed to leave the original oil in until the cars light came on due to a special lubricant added from the factory?

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I read this in another thread that over the counter oils do not have the same lubricants as the break in oil and that is why you should wait until the MM tells you to change the oil. I am at 3800 miles and mine says 20% Oil Life. I just ordered oil for the first Oil change.

josh8604 said:

I read this in another thread that over the counter oils do not have the same lubricants as the break in oil and that is why you should wait until the MM tells you to change the oil. I am at 3800 miles and mine says 20% Oil Life. I just ordered oil for the first Oil change.

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Go outside and sniff your dip stick. Bet you anything it smells like fuel. I'm going 3000 miles on original oil and changing it to AMS Oil. Not worth the risk. There is no more breaking in at 3000+ miles.

OneSickFK8 said:

Go outside and sniff your dip stick. Bet you anything it smells like fuel. I'm going 3000 miles on original oil and changing it to AMS Oil. Not worth the risk. There is no more breaking in at 3000+ miles.

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I'll take a look today at the dipstick and check to see if it smells like gas. I haven't been driving the car hard and it isn't my daily driver. New oil is arriving tomorrow. So I'll probably change it before I drive the car again.