D-Street Type R AutoX info sharing

RacingManiac

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The design is mostly similar to all the other karcepts offering in the past, but maybe because the bar here is shorter maybe there is more of a torque load on the arms than normal, I'd kinda expect endlink to fail first in that case though. Maybe that will be the next point of failure...lol
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destoups

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The design is mostly similar to all the other karcepts offering in the past, but maybe because the bar here is shorter maybe there is more of a torque load on the arms than normal, I'd kinda expect endlink to fail first in that case though. Maybe that will be the next point of failure...lol
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RacingManiac

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Thats mostly a Mazda problem, I guess induced by stiffer bar, but this is actually a bar parts issue on the Civic...I don't think S2K or something has the same problem with their Karcepts?
 

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I have two D street questions:

What approximate pressures have you found to be successful? I know this varies on conditions and preference. I’m running square 255/35/19 RE71Rs. I have found higher pressure in the front (33-34) and lower in the rear (31-32) to work ok. I’ve found the rear of the car to be pretty lively and have adjusted the rear pressure downward to compensate.

Also, have you found a RSB to be helpful? Again, I find the the rear to be pretty loose.

I am also only on my second season in auto-x, so there’s a lot for me to learn about how to feel the car and get the setup right. The looseness of the rear could be a learning curve, or the way I’m transferring weight, but I’m wondering if the RSB will help or hurt. I’m currently in first place for the season in our regional SCCA street class, so I give a lot of credit to the car...lol.

Thanks everyone.
 


RacingManiac

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Those pressure are in the ballpark. Again this can be very course/surface dependent. For Bridgestone running slightly "under wheeled" I've found I typically start around 32 and adjust rear pressure up or down based on balance. So I think you seem to be doing the same.

Running higher grip concrete site I think you want the bigger RSB to make the rear end more mobile. Might not be quite what you want if you run a lot of asphalt site or in colder temps....
 

apexit53

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I have two D street questions:

What approximate pressures have you found to be successful? I know this varies on conditions and preference. I’m running square 255/35/19 RE71Rs. I have found higher pressure in the front (33-34) and lower in the rear (31-32) to work ok. I’ve found the rear of the car to be pretty lively and have adjusted the rear pressure downward to compensate.

Also, have you found a RSB to be helpful? Again, I find the the rear to be pretty loose.

I am also only on my second season in auto-x, so there’s a lot for me to learn about how to feel the car and get the setup right. The looseness of the rear could be a learning curve, or the way I’m transferring weight, but I’m wondering if the RSB will help or hurt. I’m currently in first place for the season in our regional SCCA street class, so I give a lot of credit to the car...lol.

Thanks everyone.
tire pressures are right on. Id also say go up to the 265!

Sway bar depends on driver setup and preferences. also alignment. for me the RSB makes the car more predictable and obviously adjustable on conditions for the weekend.

if you're just learning... I tell this to everyone! SEAT TIME SEAT TIME SEAT TIME! Learn the car, learn the sport, adjust later! you will get so far ahead of others by learning rather than adjusting cars hewn you do throw parts on, you'll know what they will do and how it will help your driving. too often people throw parts at cars expecting results and then just get frustrated cause they aren't getting faster.
 

Boarshead77

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Thank you! I agree on the seat time. I’m forcing myself to avoid the “mod urge” and stick to street for at least a few seasons while I learn these things.

I’m also trying to learn how to feel out the differences with things like an adjustable RSB and tire pressures. I feel like I am certainly at a point where I could experiment and notice a difference.

With the pressures, for example, I appreciate knowing the “ballpark” to work from.

Thanks for your insight!
 

Banannie

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I echo the above comments - tire pressures are definitely ballpark. I would say definitely NO to swapping the bar out, if you're already feeling it as somewhat loose. I run on asphalt sites almost exclusively here in Seattle, and even on the softest setting the Karcepts bar is too much. Especially when it is cooler / damp (which is often!). When needed, I can get plenty of rotation even on hot days just with tire pressure (think 34F / 42R).
 

sundaydriver

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I'm getting my first alignment on Monday with this car. I pulled the pins and will be pushing for max neg. camber in the front. What to do with toe? What are the trade-offs if I go with a little toe out? I've got the Karcepts RSB and 265 RE71s.
 


David Price

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I have two D street questions:

What approximate pressures have you found to be successful? I know this varies on conditions and preference. I’m running square 255/35/19 RE71Rs. I have found higher pressure in the front (33-34) and lower in the rear (31-32) to work ok. I’ve found the rear of the car to be pretty lively and have adjusted the rear pressure downward to compensate.

Also, have you found a RSB to be helpful? Again, I find the the rear to be pretty loose.

I am also only on my second season in auto-x, so there’s a lot for me to learn about how to feel the car and get the setup right. The looseness of the rear could be a learning curve, or the way I’m transferring weight, but I’m wondering if the RSB will help or hurt. I’m currently in first place for the season in our regional SCCA street class, so I give a lot of credit to the car...lol.

Thanks everyone.
Apexit53 knows what he is talking about! I am running 19 inch 265 71Rs and in my first event I spun out 3 times. It was 37 F and I was spooked. Since then warmer temps (for Iowa) have reduced the tendency for the rear to come around. I follow apexit53's advice to lower pressure in the front from 35 psi. I have been using 31 in the front and 33-34 in the rear with the Karcepts at the middle position. This can be a little loose, but is completely controllable. If the rear starts to step out you just need to apply a little throttle and the rear will come in line and stick like glue. Next time you get loose try it. The correction takes just 100 ms or so and once you get it it can be used to get better times. It takes a master like apexit53 to use that control to maximum advantage, but anybody can improve their times using the technique.
 

Apex Carver

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I just gotten email from Karwan and he is shipping my replacement arms for the RSB today(for free!). Pretty awesome of Brian to do that since I didn't even buy mine from him. But should be fine for Nats now.
Got that email as well. Kudos to Brian, great customer service.
 

RacingManiac

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Honda Civic 10th gen D-Street Type R AutoX info sharing upload_2019-8-25_11-54-45


One less hole per his email, the rates are supposedly comparable(slightly less full stiff and slightly more full soft)
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