Let's Talk Spark Plugs

bbeem

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What part numbers did you try? I switched to Ruthenium HX on my Si about two months ago and I didn't have any fitment issues. I also greased them up with dielectric grease, so it's possible the boot slipped over more easily.

I don't recall seeing any size difference in the ceramic insulator between them, though. I compared OEM with the HX side by side as I swapped them out.

I used NGK 91784 regapped to around 0.028"

Edit: I pulled out the old plugs and checked again, there is no size difference in the insulator between the OEM Si plug and NGK 91784.

I think they didn't give you an appropriate part to try. They currently do not have a part number of the HX plugs they recommend for the 10th gen civic. I chose this part by cross-referencing all 26 Ruthenium parts against the OEM plug spec.
I want to try them, where'd you order? What was the factory gap? You like them? Thanks.
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JT Si

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Metal_Hatch

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@jcivics I think I may be having the same issue as you. How we’re tiki able to narrow down the leak?
 

Hollywoo0220

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From “Spark Plugs” to “Everything about my own misfortune”. A tuner tunes, an owner ensures the vehicle is 100% ready to be tuned. When tuning and/or modifying or both - sensible and mature adults don’t lean on warranties.
 

Xlhulkxl

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just wanna point out that I was FBO with less than 9k on the engine with stock plugs, wasn't doing any spirited driving when a piece of the plug broke off and scared the cylinder walls and damaged the valves. Obviously returned everything to stock and flashed the computer but currently fighting to have my engine replaced because honda wants to void the warranty. Apparently they found something on the computer so I'd highly recommend replacing plugs from stock.
 


alxgravel

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Changed mine at 75k big difference... Stock gap 32 32 30 4th killed it didn't look.

Now all 0.28 on tsp stage 1 map 3 . Day and night.

Running sometime leaner with my 27won intake on idle and cruze. Pmed tsp said no tune needed lol ... But in idle sometime hitting -25 of stfb1. New plug helped a bit and doing maintenance code 019 ... So they will adjust valve on the service. This should help maybe?
And will ask to look my ac getting warm temp on ac on .


Honda Civic 10th gen Let's Talk Spark Plugs 20200623_223154


Honda Civic 10th gen Let's Talk Spark Plugs 20200623_223203
 

5th 3l3ment

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I know what you're thinking, "Another spark plug thread? Really?" :doh: Yes, really. Everyday we seem to receive inquiries from customers regarding which spark plugs he/she should run in their 1.5L Turbo Honda. As these cars become more commonly modified these questions are going to continue roll in.

Let's start with the basics. Honda provides a nifty little maintenance schedule minder for those with stock/near-stock cars that drive rather "normal" with very limited spirited driving. Maintenance Minder 4 (100,000 miles) is the factory recommended interval those covered under the "normal" driving category. However, it is not a bad idea to check the plugs a bit more often than this if tuned, moderately modified or if you enjoy racing around town all the time like Johnny Tran all the time.
Johnny_Tran_3_zpswgyzzohz.png


The Honda factory spark plugs for the 1.5T Civic Non-Si are NGK 95112 Laser Iridium Spark Plug ILZKAR8H8S Heat Range 8 and NGK 95660 ILZKAR8J8SY Laser Iridium Spark Plug for the 1.5T Accord, Civic Si, CR-V, 2.0T Accord and RDX. The only differences between these two plugs are the gaps.
*Technically the 1.5T & 2.0T Honda Accord 2.0T and Acura RDX use a DILKAR8P8SY Heat Range 8 Honda part number 12290-6A0-A01, which is a Japanese NGK spark plug and can only be purchased through Honda at this time. However, it has identical specs of the NGK 95660 ILZKAR8J8SY plug and can be interchanged.

5a33458468aac_zpsax3cv47d.jpg

31cKP0LKS7L._SY355__zpsjiekjjam.jpg


NGK Laser Iridium Spark Plugs provide superior ignitability and long service life.

The fine wire center electrode and the fine wire ground electrode offer the smallest tip diameter available with Iridium and Platinum surfaces that ensure a slow wear rate, provide a stable idle, offer superior anti fouling, improve your fuel efficiency, and lower your vehicle's emissions.

Features
  • Laser welded Iridium center electrode tip
  • Platinum disc welded to backside of ground electrode provides
  • “Trivalent Metal Plating” provides superior anti-corrosion and anti-seizing properties
  • Faster starts and quicker acceleration
  • Long service life, better fuel economy and lower emissions
  • Best OEM Iridium spark plug available
  • Original Equipment Manufacturer approved design
These plugs are supposed to come out of the box with a 0.030" gap (NGK 95112) or 0.032" gap (NGK 95660), which is within factory spec for these cars. However, we always recommend checking the gaps just to make sure.

1.5T Si Factory Recommended Electrode Gap:
Standard (New)
0.70-0.75 mm (0.0276-0.0295")

1.5T Non-Si Factory Recommended Electrode Gap:
Standard (New)
0.7-0.8 mm (0.028-0.031")

K20C1 Factory Recommended Electrode Gap:
Standard (New)
0.7-0.8 mm (0.028-0.031")

Torque Specs: Aluminum: 10.8-14.5 lb. ft.

Longevity: 100k Miles

"But what if I'm full bolt-on or Stage 5 broooo?" At this point in time we recommend stock plugs for ANY power goals you may have. We are currently running stock plugs gapped down to 0.018" on our shop car making well over 600 horsepower without any issues whatsoever. If you're moderately to extremely modified and/or running high boost levels you will most likely need to gap your plugs down. Higher cylinder pressure(s) will increase the difficulty for spark to jump from the electrode to the strap. Tightening the gap between the electrode and strap will allow spark to jump much easier with higher cylinder pressure(s), reducing the risk of ignition misfire. If professional tuned/tuning, we recommend discussing spark plug gap with the tuner.

For reference, we have been using/recommending stock spark plugs in high power 8th Gen, 9th Gen and now 10th Gen Honda Civics for years without any ignition related issues. Modern coil on plug (COP) ignitions systems have replaced outdated distributor based ignition systems allowing, factory ignition systems to work much more efficiently.

Please do not fall for "1-step colder" plugs, "similar" plugs your buddy recommended, brands other than NGK or knock-off NGK plugs. At this point in time there are no "colder" spark plugs available or "similar" plugs that will work. We have worked directly with NGK to test fit a few different plugs that we were told may work. They did NOT. There's a reason Honda uses NGK. There are quite a few people offering fake/knock-off NGK plugs (CLICK THIS LINK ON HOW TO SPOT AUTHENTIC NGK SPARK PLUGS), so be sure to purchase off of a reputable vendor. (cough cough, we sell these) :thumbsup:

PRODUCT LINK
Thanks for the post. I really appreciate ya
 

IronFusion

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Pulled the plugs on my 1.5L today. They were fairly stuck in there. I have a little under 40k miles. I was going to close the gap because I run higher boost. Strange thing.... They were all 0.025-0.026" ?
I was expecting closer to 0.030", so I just brushed them off, then sprayed them with brake cleaner and wiped them down. If I pull them again, I'm going to apply anti-seize lube on the threads. Most of the stuff came off with the brake cleaner, the threads at the end stayed black though.
They were a good color, the pad on the ground and the electrode looked good, and the deposits weren't thick or fuzzy. No signs of misfiring hitting the body. So, I'm unlikely to take them out again until it's time to change them. I'll have the anti-seize on hand incase I want to scope inside or run a compression test before a change.

My understanding is that anti-seize shouldn't be applied unless the threads have lost their shiny finish or have deposits that won't come off: It makes it easier to over-tighten, and NGK & others have a finish on the threads that resists seizing.
I did apply dialectic grease to the ceramic and inside the boot gasket. Pretty happy to not see any signs of oil fouling to gases pushing up the threads and leaving deposits.

Since my last car my approach is to put the plugs back in the reverse order I pulled them, unless there is one cylinder fouling more than another. Then I swap the more and less worn ones. I noticed plugs 1 and 4 had less deposits on one side. Guessing that's the outer side. Maybe the coolant channels between cylinders run hotter?

My old car needed new plugs every 10-15k, so I'm still amazed at the maintenance interval for our plugs. Science rules.
 
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fkturboindo

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What if 1.5T CVT upgrade Sparkplug to ILZKAR8J8SY (NGK 95660)?

Is it okay? Because in my country ILZKAR8H8S (NGK 95112) out of stock.

spec:
Full exhaust, downpipe, frontpipe, resonator, muffler.

intercooler upgrade, Open Air intake KNN, tuning stage 1

any suggestions? sorry for my bad English, Thank you very much.
 


zspeed

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What if 1.5T CVT upgrade Sparkplug to ILZKAR8J8SY (NGK 95660)?

Is it okay? Because in my country ILZKAR8H8S (NGK 95112) out of stock.

spec:
Full exhaust, downpipe, frontpipe, resonator, muffler.

intercooler upgrade, Open Air intake KNN, tuning stage 1

any suggestions? sorry for my bad English, Thank you very much.
Is this the one with a 0.30 gap that the Si uses? If yes, you’ll be fine with that.
 

fkturboindo

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Is this the one with a 0.30 gap that the Si uses? If yes, you’ll be fine with that.
si model / crv turbo:
NGK ILZKAR8J8SY (95560) 0.032 gap

civic 1.5 CVT :
NGK ILZKAR8H8S (95512) 0.030 gap.

difficult the oem (95512) in my country recently because of pandemic.

The store/ Oem aftermarket only sell Si model / crv turbo.

the difference gap between them is 0.002.

is it ok? thanks for your opinion
 

Ben0012

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Question for the 2.0, recently purchased a wet nitrous system and it suggested 1 step colder plugs. Do you feel the factory NGK plugs will do fine for a small shot of nitrous? 75 shot to be specific.
 

BoxsterSteve

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Question for the 2.0, recently purchased a wet nitrous system and it suggested 1 step colder plugs. Do you feel the factory NGK plugs will do fine for a small shot of nitrous? 75 shot to be specific.
A 75 shot on a 2.0?
Not meant to be dickish, but I’ve seen several friends try similar stuff over the years and it never ends well.
Just buy a fast car if you want a fast car.
 

Ben0012

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A 75 shot on a 2.0?
Not meant to be dickish, but I’ve seen several friends try similar stuff over the years and it never ends well.
Just buy a fast car if you want a fast car.
Common response to 2.0 owners here which was zero help. Anyone have an answer for the colder plugs on the 2.0?
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