ATTENTION NEW OWNERS: STARTER INFORMATION-How to prevent blowing up your car.

schrisi

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Haha you got me buddy!
But seriously, this post is great and full of useful information. Not all of it is obvious, either. This is the first place I'd read about the catalytic converter warm up mode, for instance, so thanks for including that.

I installed the TSP stage 1 tune a month or so ago but haven't checked the logs, so I'll definitely be looking at those in the future to make sure things are running well. Ktuner V1.2, so I don't have the display on my dashboard.

I haven't had a chance to read through all of the links, but apart from IAT and AFR, is there anything else I should check on a regular basis? Another post here says 14.7-15.0 is a good AFR when giving it gas, and 10.9:1 WOT.
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But seriously, this post is great and full of useful information. Not all of it is obvious, either. This is the first place I'd read about the catalytic converter warm up mode, for instance, so thanks for including that.

I installed the TSP stage 1 tune a month or so ago but haven't checked the logs, so I'll definitely be looking at those in the future to make sure things are running well. Ktuner V1.2, so I don't have the display on my dashboard.

I haven't had a chance to read through all of the links, but apart from IAT and AFR, is there anything else I should check on a regular basis? Another post here says 14.7-15.0 is a good AFR when giving it gas, and 10.9:1 WOT.
Keep an eye on LTFT as well.
 
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But seriously, this post is great and full of useful information. Not all of it is obvious, either. This is the first place I'd read about the catalytic converter warm up mode, for instance, so thanks for including that.

I installed the TSP stage 1 tune a month or so ago but haven't checked the logs, so I'll definitely be looking at those in the future to make sure things are running well. Ktuner V1.2, so I don't have the display on my dashboard.

I haven't had a chance to read through all of the links, but apart from IAT and AFR, is there anything else I should check on a regular basis? Another post here says 14.7-15.0 is a good AFR when giving it gas, and 10.9:1 WOT.
I enjoyed writing it/continuing to try and spread the knowledge of the platform. Your welcome and thanks for the laugh!

That is reasonable expectations for the afr and for the most part the car will get to those numbers (or thereabouts) rather consistently, the question lies in how hard the ecu corrections are working to get you to it (s.trim+l.trim). Ill start working on a cliff notes version of what to watch on the mobile devices...
 

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Just to be clear, my 19 Touring Coupe is completely stock, not "tuned", driven normally. I have been using Toptier 87 octane exclusively as per the manual and label on the fuel door. Are there any real-world advantages to using 93? Any MPG increase would have to offset the .50-.60 cents difference. I'm not a "performance " driver, but do like the turbo's power when passing/maneuvering on the highway and when merging with 65-70 mph traffic. My Honda mechanic (who is a "performance" guy) tells me I'd be wasting money on 93 as the factory tune is setup to "look" for 87. Inquiring minds want to know:hmm:

BTY, appreciate the explanation on the warm-up cycle, I've always done that, but nice to have the details of what's actually happening and why. You're absolutely correct, Common sense, as well as courtesy & decency are, sadly fading into the past.
 
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Miggytronz

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Just to be clear, my 19 Touring Coupe is completely stock, not "tuned", driven normally. I have been using Toptier 87 octane exclusively as per the manual and label on the fuel door. Are there any real-world advantages to using 93? Any MPG increase would have to offset the .50-.60 cents difference. I'm not a "performance " driver, but do like the turbo's power when passing/maneuvering on the highway and when merging with 65-70 mph traffic. My Honda mechanic (who is a "performance" guy) tells me I'd be wasting money on 93 as the factory tune is setup to "look" for 87. Inquiring minds want to know:hmm:

BTY, appreciate the explanation on the warm-up cycle, I've always done that, but nice to have the details of what's actually happening and why. You're absolutely correct, Common sense, as well as courtesy & decency are, sadly fading into the past.
My 18 Touring Hatch says Premium Recommended = 93.
 
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Just to be clear, my 19 Touring Coupe is completely stock, not "tuned", driven normally. I have been using Toptier 87 octane exclusively as per the manual and label on the fuel door. Are there any real-world advantages to using 93? Any MPG increase would have to offset the .50-.60 cents difference. I'm not a "performance " driver, but do like the turbo's power when passing/maneuvering on the highway and when merging with 65-70 mph traffic. My Honda mechanic (who is a "performance" guy) tells me I'd be wasting money on 93 as the factory tune is setup to "look" for 87. Inquiring minds want to know:hmm:

BTY, appreciate the explanation on the warm-up cycle, I've always done that, but nice to have the details of what's actually happening and why. You're absolutely correct, Common sense, as well as courtesy & decency are, sadly fading into the past.
You are perfectly fine running what you run for fuel. Top tier is the most important thing for the non-Si stock cars just due to the detergents to keep the direct injection system happy.

I highly doubt you would see much benefit (although peace of mind is more important for some, rather than "seeing" any potential benefits)

I need to add the top tier detail to the original post thank you for reminding me.
 

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I'm not trying to be a prick, but shouldn't most of this be common sense? ;)
Common sense to one person is not always common sense to the next. Its in the eye of the beholder.
Where I come from common sense for a farmer is far different that a citidiots view of common sense lol
And before anyone gets offended that is just a joke. City folk people are not idiots and are just as smart as county folk
 
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You are perfectly fine running what you run for fuel. Top tier is the most important thing for the non-Si stock cars just due to the detergents to keep the direct injection system happy.

I highly doubt you would see much benefit (although peace of mind is more important for some, rather than "seeing" any potential benefits)

I need to add the top tier detail to the original post thank you for reminding me.
To add to this....lets say you get caught merging onto the highway and a semi is in the slow lane your merging into....your running out of on ramp.... with every seat in the car filled with people....maybe bags and luggage from travelling....completely full weight...in 90+ degree temps...you need every little bit of extra power as well as protection with octane you could have from the system in this exact moment...THEN you would benefit with 93 in the tank....to what degree is immeasurable but this is how I look at it and the scenarios I try to plan for. You never know...
 

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You are perfectly fine running what you run for fuel. Top tier is the most important thing for the non-Si stock cars just due to the detergents to keep the direct injection system happy.

I highly doubt you would see much benefit (although peace of mind is more important for some, rather than "seeing" any potential benefits)

I need to add the top tier detail to the original post thank you for reminding me.
No problem, glad to be of help, I've been preaching the Toptier mantra since I learned about it and DI Turbo issues. A link to the TopTier website would also be good, they usually have a downloadable printable list of stations. It makes a difference in ANY DI engine, even those with the dual system.
 


schrisi

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Checked some logs for the first time, inspired by this thread.

STFT spiked to ~18 at times, but LTFT was a pretty constant -3.13.

AFR of about 13 at WOT, 15 idling. It rose to 29.4 several times, but TPS was 0. I think I was either braking or completely stopped at the time. Nothing wrong with that high value there, right?

IAT a constant 140 degrees.

All seems fine to me, but I uploaded the log I'm looking at. Would really appreciate if someone could double check. The only mod I've done is TSP's stage 1 tune. Thanks!
 

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:dunno: Ssssooooo, am I correctly inferring from your post that I should return my boomba BOV to stock...?
 

charleswrivers

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:dunno: Ssssooooo, am I correctly inferring from your post that I should return my boomba BOV to stock...?
That would be a throbbing affirmative... unless you choose noise over lowered performance and small windows of running rich as you come off the throttle and vent all that hard-fought for pressure out to atmosphere. Still you car... still you choice.
 

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Checked some logs for the first time, inspired by this thread.

STFT spiked to ~18 at times, but LTFT was a pretty constant -3.13.

AFR of about 13 at WOT, 15 idling. It rose to 29.4 several times, but TPS was 0. I think I was either braking or completely stopped at the time. Nothing wrong with that high value there, right?

IAT a constant 140 degrees.

All seems fine to me, but I uploaded the log I'm looking at. Would really appreciate if someone could double check. The only mod I've done is TSP's stage 1 tune. Thanks!
I looked at the datalog. Kind of short, but in the 3 minutes of driving, nothing stood out as a problem. Looks like it was warm where you were driving. Looks like you weren't on the full TSP Map 3, because the highest boost target I saw was 19.6 psi at WOT. Fuel trims OK overall. AFR OK. I know K.Count on this platform is fairly meaningless but yours stood out a bit (could be anything though). Next time if you can, do a longer run using the actual full TSP tune. :thumbsup:

Honda Civic 10th gen ATTENTION NEW OWNERS: STARTER INFORMATION-How to prevent blowing up your car. 1Capture
 
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