DIY: PRL Motorsports Downpipe + Front Pipe Install

IronFusion

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How are you guys doing this the first 50 Mila I got a the p0139 code ? Da hell!!
P0139 isn't the code most get. That's a sensor fault. P0420 is the one to be expected. Did you not install the O2 sensor, or damage it?
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IronFusion

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Try unplugging it and checking the wires are intact and the pins in the connector are too. Apparently there is a disable for that code on ktuner if that is an option.
 

Lpskate21

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Can anyone help...does anyone know if on the top right stud/nut fastener on the turbo....if the nut is seized onto the stud and the stud starts to unscrew out of the turbo...will it come all the way out? Just hoping I don’t break the stud inside the turbo otherwise I don’t know what I’m going to do. Also does the 1 gasket provided when buying just the PRL downpipe go in between the turbo and the dp replacing the oem gasket? Or does that new gasket go in between the dp and front pipe and just reuse the oem gasket on the turbo?
 


Eleon

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Can anyone help...does anyone know if on the top right stud/nut fastener on the turbo....if the nut is seized onto the stud and the stud starts to unscrew out of the turbo...will it come all the way out? Just hoping I don’t break the stud inside the turbo otherwise I don’t know what I’m going to do. Also does the 1 gasket provided when buying just the PRL downpipe go in between the turbo and the dp replacing the oem gasket? Or does that new gasket go in between the dp and front pipe and just reuse the oem gasket on the turbo?
Use the oem turbo gasket. The supplied gasket goes between dp and fp
 

Mrbadwrench

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How did you get off the top heat shield bolt? It's directly under the t.i.p and none of my tools fit

Honda Civic 10th gen DIY: PRL Motorsports Downpipe + Front Pipe Install IMG_20210320_162205370
 

Phy

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How did you get off the top heat shield bolt? It's directly under the t.i.p and none of my tools fit

IMG_20210320_162205370.jpg
I used a open end wrench, was a pain in the ass.
 


Phy

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I can get a open end wrench in there but can't turn it. Will keep tryin
Getting it broke loose was the hardest part, then just tedious, small turns. If I do it again, I'll take the TIP off. I didn't the first time because it wasn't immediately obvious how to do.
 

Mrbadwrench

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Getting it broke loose was the hardest part, then just tedious, small turns. If I do it again, I'll take the TIP off. I didn't the first time because it wasn't immediately obvious how to do.
Yeah I have no interest in removing the t.i.p if I don't have to. I got the heat shield unbolted but it seems like it doesn't physically fit to remove from the engine bay ??
 
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WOPSiWOT

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Getting it broke loose was the hardest part, then just tedious, small turns. If I do it again, I'll take the TIP off. I didn't the first time because it wasn't immediately obvious how to do.
Did you try a flex head ratcheting wrench? I can’t remember how I did it, but also don’t remember it being exceptionally difficult.
 

IronFusion

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How did you get off the top heat shield bolt? It's directly under the t.i.p and none of my tools fit

IMG_20210320_162205370.jpg
If that is the same size as the driver footwell ground bolt, I used the freebie open-end wrench that came with power equipment or a bicycle.
Otherwise, I probably used a mix between 90-degree ratcheting socket driver, my own tears, and a tiny adjustable wrench.
 

Phy

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Did you try a flex head ratcheting wrench? I can’t remember how I did it, but also don’t remember it being exceptionally difficult.
A flexible ratcheting wrench would have been great, and maybe I'll get a set someday
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