Need Advice installing 4channel Amp and Components

kperalta

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Why not? Been doing it since '95 - never hurt anything, no mounting or drilling to car.
Because it's ugly and unnecessary, but when it comes to mounting/drilling into the car that's the owner's preference. I don't care about drilling as I do it all the time for peoples car but I also look for factory bolts I can attach the wire to anyways (which be hard to find considering the small diameter ring terminals that come with general amp kits that most people buy, but for amp mounting it's almost unavoidable. I'd still rather mount it to the back of the seat rather than a box as though the risk is minimal and can be mitigated I'd still rather not risk altering the integrity of a box. Especially not if it was a custom box but I mean if it's a cheap box and sub who cares but if I paid 500+ for a subwoofer that airspace better be tight down to the mL. As for the crossovers, you could easily just adhere them within the door panel closer to the speakers. Besides the initial wire run from the amp you'll end up using less speaker wire.
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Because it's ugly and unnecessary, but when it comes to mounting/drilling into the car that's the owner's preference. I don't care about drilling as I do it all the time for peoples car but I also look for factory bolts I can attach the wire to anyways (which be hard to find considering the small diameter ring terminals that come with general amp kits that most people buy, but for amp mounting it's almost unavoidable. I'd still rather mount it to the back of the seat rather than a box as though the risk is minimal and can be mitigated I'd still rather not risk altering the integrity of a box. Especially not if it was a custom box but I mean if it's a cheap box and sub who cares but if I paid 500+ for a subwoofer that airspace better be tight down to the mL. As for the crossovers, you could easily just adhere them within the door panel closer to the speakers. Besides the initial wire run from the amp you'll end up using less speaker wire.
I'd also like to add that the vibration from the box might mess with some internal components of the amp or anything mounted directly on it.

I also agree that drilling holes in the box might let excess air out, hence another reason I do not do it.

But to each their own everyone has a certain way they do things...

Besides the point...does no one still have a way for me to tell which wires are which for the stock headunit?
 

kperalta

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I'd also like to add that the vibration from the box might mess with some internal components of the amp or anything mounted directly on it.

I also agree that drilling holes in the box might let excess air out, hence another reason I do not do it.

But to each their own everyone has a certain way they do things...

Besides the point...does no one still have a way for me to tell which wires are which for the stock headunit?
There is a chance but the odds of it actually breaking an amp only increase as the output of a sub goes up. In most applications while they have a chance of experiencing it they most likely won't, which I'm guessing OP hasn't since he's been doing it for 24 years. All it takes is one time though. Type R's are higher output subs but they're not super duper high and that's also looks like a sealed box so while it may still output enough for OP it's not outputting nearly as much as a ported box.

As for the wires for the stock headunit, from what I understand the output to the amp on your touring is digital. No way to splice into that. but, here I grabbed a diagram from a trusted source:

Honda Civic 10th gen Need Advice installing 4channel Amp and Components Touring headunit


test them with a speaker popper before hand.

Also rear tweeters and those speakers in the C Pillar are in the middle harness.
 
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There is a chance but the odds of it actually breaking an amp only increase as the output of a sub goes up. In most applications while they have a chance of experiencing it they most likely won't, which I'm guessing OP hasn't since he's been doing it for 24 years. All it takes is one time though. Type R's are higher output subs but they're not super duper high and that's also looks like a sealed box so while it may still output enough for OP it's not outputting nearly as much as a ported box.

As for the wires for the stock headunit, from what I understand the output to the amp on your touring is digital. No way to splice into that. but, here I grabbed a diagram from a trusted source:

Touring headunit.jpg


test them with a speaker popper before hand.

Also rear tweeters and those speakers in the C Pillar are in the middle harness.
Since I'm running component speakers would I use the front/rear mids to connect to the crossovers and disregard the factory tweeter wires? In which there it'll split to my tweeters/mids output?
 

kperalta

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Since I'm running component speakers would I use the front/rear mids to connect to the crossovers and disregard the factory tweeter wires? In which there it'll split to my tweeters/mids output?
No. You'll want a summing device.
 


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No. You'll want a summing device.
Well that sucks...I think I just might swap the speakers , forget about the amp and call it a day
 

kperalta

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Well that sucks...I think I just might swap the speakers , forget about the amp and call it a day
Well tbh speakers under 200 aren't necessarily worth amplifying further unless you're looking to either:
A) maximize what you're paying for and are comfortable with spending more than what you paid for the speakers
B) aren't already amplified

I think you'll be perfectly satisfied with dropping those references in. They're good speakers for the price and will probably sound fine on the touring amp. Sure the tuning and crossovers won't be specifically tailored but regular listeners won't notice a difference.
 
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Well tbh speakers under 200 aren't necessarily worth amplifying further unless you're looking to either:
A) maximize what you're paying for and are comfortable with spending more than what you paid for the speakers
B) aren't already amplified

I think you'll be perfectly satisfied with dropping those references in. They're good speakers for the price and will probably sound fine on the touring amp. Sure the tuning and crossovers won't be specifically tailored but regular listeners won't notice a difference.
Should be , I just wanted them to be louder than stock..but not I have this awesome amp that I have no use for...
 

kperalta

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Should be , I just wanted them to be louder than stock..but not I have this awesome amp that I have no use for...
Of course. The problem is that the Amplifier in our car is an advanced amp, for basically no reason. It runs all the channels active which splits the frequencies at the amp. In some cases, cars are run passive stock but seems like honda in the premium systems is going away from that. So if you ignored the high input the amp would only be receiving mid range freq which means your tweeter would literally be doing basically nothing. To properly amplify the door speakers you'll need a device that sum all 8 channels present in the four doors together to get the fullrange sent to your amp then have your amp doing the crossover. Basically, you'd need this. https://www.amazon.com/AudioControl...keywords=lc8i&qid=1563907183&s=gateway&sr=8-1 .

Believe me, It's ridiculous. Honda gets an A for effort but they should've just ran the channels passive so that they'd be easier to upgrade properly. I regret getting my touring, I would have much rather gotten a lx sedan or sport hatchback and upgraded that rather than having to use a bunch of integration tools to get the sound I want. Honestly, with the non touch radios just swap the damn headunit and boom your sound is now whatever the hell you want it to be. But with our upper trims if you want to do high end upgrades you either waste your money by putting good stuff on stock amp or you spend too much money. Maestro (which is an idatalink company that makes a bunch of stuff for car audio devices) is currently working on developing the Maestro RR (Radio Replacement) harness for our cars which will more than likely retain the climate controls and other functions that are integrated into our radio. They say it'll be on the HO4 platform but that it's still early in development. So one day, it will be easier and cheaper to properly upgrade our systems but until then we make do haha. Can't wait to put wireless Android Auto in my car :confused:. The RR will also probably retain the lanewatch camera as well as settings for the car, and that's probably the reason it's taking so long for them to develop it. Hard to say really.

The LC8i is a good device just note that with amplifying only your doors and everything else there may be an imbalance especially with your speakers in the C-Pillars but I doubt you'll hear it from the front, and don't worry about the center channel. I know plenty of installers that either recommend leaving center channels not amplified or simply summing it with the other channels and deleting it. Maestro also makes an AR (Amplifier Replacement) but I doubt it'll ever be available for hondas, as it's currently only available for GM, Fiat-Chrysler and Fords but not hondas at all but you never know.
 

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I'd also like to add that the vibration from the box might mess with some internal components of the amp or anything mounted directly on it.

I also agree that drilling holes in the box might let excess air out, hence another reason I do not do it.

But to each their own everyone has a certain way they do things...

Besides the point...does no one still have a way for me to tell which wires are which for the stock headunit?
All decent points from both - i did clean up the wires hence. (I rushed the initial job but ended up tearing out the rear deck a few more times to get rid of the panel vibrations.) FYI those crossovers are for the rear Polk DBs (the front Polk MM1 crossovers are in the doors) and yes, its a cheap BBox that i love so much i will no doubt buy again for my van. Probably came free with sub or $30 at best. It even has old holes from previous amps/setups so no doubt its not "airtight" - however, it sounds so good i really don't care - never even come close to hitting the subs limit and i listen loud. Its way more accurate than any of the ported boxes i had previously. Plus I also don't have to account for all of the wires moving while putting seats up and down. I think initially i did it just cause it was easier wiring the box first without being crammed in the car! Thanks for sharing, i am always willing to learn.
 


kperalta

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All decent points from both - i did clean up the wires hence. (I rushed the initial job but ended up tearing out the rear deck a few more times to get rid of the panel vibrations.) FYI those crossovers are for the rear Polk DBs (the front Polk MM1 crossovers are in the doors) and yes, its a cheap BBox that i love so much i will no doubt buy again for my van. Probably came free with sub or $30 at best. It even has old holes from previous amps/setups so no doubt its not "airtight" - however, it sounds so good i really don't care - never even come close to hitting the subs limit and i listen loud. Its way more accurate than any of the ported boxes i had previously. Plus I also don't have to account for all of the wires moving while putting seats up and down. I think initially i did it just cause it was easier wiring the box first without being crammed in the car! Thanks for sharing, i am always willing to learn.
Ported boxes aren't accurate unless they're specifically built correctly so i feel ya there.
 
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There is a chance but the odds of it actually breaking an amp only increase as the output of a sub goes up. In most applications while they have a chance of experiencing it they most likely won't, which I'm guessing OP hasn't since he's been doing it for 24 years. All it takes is one time though. Type R's are higher output subs but they're not super duper high and that's also looks like a sealed box so while it may still output enough for OP it's not outputting nearly as much as a ported box.

As for the wires for the stock headunit, from what I understand the output to the amp on your touring is digital. No way to splice into that. but, here I grabbed a diagram from a trusted source:

Touring headunit.jpg


test them with a speaker popper before hand.

Also rear tweeters and those speakers in the C Pillar are in the middle harness.
Is this a connector from the back of the headunit or from the amp?
 

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amp unit 18pin and 8pins too head unit have 24pins
 
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amp unit 18pin and 8pins too head unit have 24pins
lmao no wonder, I pulled the headunit out and was like wtf...this diagram doesn't match anything!..Literally gave up on the spot and drank a beer
 

kperalta

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lmao no wonder, I pulled the headunit out and was like wtf...this diagram doesn't match anything!..Literally gave up on the spot and drank a beer
The plug from the head unit should be digital. You won't be able to grab any signal wires directly from the head unit.
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