Apt for Oil Change Saturday Morning..Need help buying oil and filter!

jasonjm said:

Hand tight for filter, or 1/4-3/4 turn after gasket contact on the filter. Drain plug is torqued at 30 ft-lb. After awhile you can muscle memory it and don’t need torque wrench.

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Thanks. Sounds right. Yeah I just put a good amount of torque as usual, probably about 40ft lb. I hate those monkeys that put the filter on with a wrench!

Thanks for the replies everyone!

So my Oil Change Percentage is at 30% now. Im chaning it because I read that changing the oil every 5,000 Miles is good to do?

Also thank you @garoto for that explaination. Thanks @ez12a for that I am going to drop it off at Norm Reeves tomorrow. Do you suggest any specific rep to talk to? When I schedule a appointment it asks if i want anyone specific.

Thank you!

goldKing said:

Thanks for the replies everyone!

So my Oil Change Percentage is at 30% now. Im chaning it because I read that changing the oil every 5,000 Miles is good to do?

Also thank you @garoto for that explaination. Thanks @ez12a for that I am going to drop it off at Norm Reeves tomorrow. Do you suggest any specific rep to talk to? When I schedule a appointment it asks if i want anyone specific.

Thank you!

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If you're using traditional non-synthetic oil or driving your car extremely hard then yeah, 5000 miles makes sense (3000 tends to be recommended). Most synthetics are designed for up to 10k* miles, though it'll vary depending on how hard you drive the car as well as what conditions it's done it. For example if you constantly rag on your car while the engine is cold, you'll have to change sooner; if you just rag on the car in general you'll want to change sooner.

The nice part? Honda kind of does this sort of calculation internally to determine your oil life. It's not going to be perfect as it's based on some mathematical model (proprietary), but should do the job so long as you're not on the track. My first oil change was at 7500 miles, however my subsequent 2 have been at 8500 and 9000 miles after, respectively. Honda's oil filter is rated for 15k miles, so if you do your first change at 6000 miles, the minder will actually tell you not to swap the filter as it still has 9000 miles of life. However, as you get closer to that 7000 mile mark, the minder will tell you to change the filter (I've had it tell me to change the filter all 3 times).

Also keep in mind that your first oil change is very important as it is the one that helps break in the piston rings that seal your pistons to the side wall of your cylinders. That particular oil is a special blend from the factory (can't buy it elsewhere) that is designed to help the break in process. There are many reason to do your first oil change early. That said, you're OP said 9500 miles @ 40% which seems oddly long lasting to me.

Edit: that said, if you do end up going to a dealership, some will straight up refuse to do the first oil change until the minder has gone down to a certain percentage (like 20 or something) due to the importance of the oil being used.

goldKing said:

Thanks for the replies everyone!

So my Oil Change Percentage is at 30% now. Im chaning it because I read that changing the oil every 5,000 Miles is good to do?

Also thank you @garoto for that explaination. Thanks @ez12a for that I am going to drop it off at Norm Reeves tomorrow. Do you suggest any specific rep to talk to? When I schedule a appointment it asks if i want anyone specific.

Thank you!

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Kevin Meecham I believe is his name. He's the CTR specific service writer there. What's nice about Irvine is that only the foreman works on CTRs so he's super familiar with them.

For what its worth I had my oil changed at 5% remaining at the dealer.

I changed the oil like 50 times on my geo metro and just this moment learned what a crush washer was, lolz

ez12a said:

Last I checked Norm Reeves Honda Irvine had a coupon for a synthetic oil change for $50. Just have them do it. I used coupon and it was worth it.

edit they raised the price to $54, but still worth to save the hassle:
https://www.normreeveshondairvine.com/service/service-specials/

just paying approx $20 for the labor.

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Close by me, thanks for this!!

tinyman392 said:

Also keep in mind that your first oil change is very important as it is the one that helps break in the piston rings that seal your pistons to the side wall of your cylinders. That particular oil is a special blend from the factory (can't buy it elsewhere) that is designed to help the break in process. There are many reason to do your first oil change early. That said, you're OP said 9500 miles @ 40% which seems oddly long lasting to me.

Edit: that said, if you do end up going to a dealership, some will straight up refuse to do the first oil change until the minder has gone down to a certain percentage (like 20 or something) due to the importance of the oil being used.

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Don't you mean "There are many reason NOT to do your first oil change early".

I read lots of references to the Factory Oil being something special" for break in purposes, and Dealers refusing to do early "1st Oil Changes" , but so far have seen no definitive specs on what the "special" oil might be (or more likely, the fact that the Engine Assembly oil" is now mixed with the 1st oil, and that is really what is helping with the break in.)

In any case, there are many "Break in Oils" available - those rebuilding engine might typically use such an oil to help "Break in" new engine components.

Despite what some say about "Modern" engines not needing it, I am still a firm believer in running a "new" car carefully for at least the 1st 500 miles, to slowly break it in.

If you get on one of the Insurance "Smart Drive" programs, to reduce your Car Insurance by up to 40%, it will encourage you to drive in a manner that will not put undue stress on the engine.

We did this with the 2018 Si, and to date, have have no need to go back to the Dealer.
Engine appears to have "Broken in" nicely, no signs of excess Oil dilution etc, and more by Luck than anything else, the A/C is still running fine . (as low as 42 F at center vent) ( No error code so far)

When you are sick, you go to a Hospital, and chances are, you will pick up additions illness at the Hospital.
I am thinking that Dealers are the same... take you car in for one thing, and then it suddenly develops all sorts of other issues....
(Yes, I am kind of Kidding -- but only kind of )

If you get out of the Dealership's Service Dept with only a scratch or two, you are doing well !!!

Hello goldKing,

If interested in learning to do oil changes yourself, and willing to cruise up to Fullerton, I’d be happy to show how to change oil on your car.

If interested lmk

goldKing said:

Hey guys

I have a friend helping me with an oil change for my Type R 2018

Its at 9500 ~ miles right now.

Question is can someone experienced help me buy the right oil and filter on Amazon so i can get them primed to me tomorrow?

Idk if i can buy the filter on Amazon?

Thanks for the Help!

Im thinking this for the oil? https://www.amazon.com/Motul-300V-Ester-Synthetic-Oil/dp/B000GU5QDA/

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This. The last time I changed oil at the dealer, I swear the car had (2) additional miles on it when I picked it up.... actually I’m not even sure it was for an oil change... might have been to replace the battery.

Either way, I decided to learn to DIY to avoid taking the car to the dealer for joyrides.

SCOPESYS said:

If you get out of the Dealership's Service Dept with only a scratch or two, you are doing well !!!

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goldKing said:

Also what is a OEM Crushwasher?

Should i Just do the oil change at the dealership?

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Get it done at the dealership

goldKing said:

Hey guys

I have a friend helping me with an oil change for my Type R 2018

Its at 9500 ~ miles right now.

Question is can someone experienced help me buy the right oil and filter on Amazon so i can get them primed to me tomorrow?

Idk if i can buy the filter on Amazon?

Thanks for the Help!

Im thinking this for the oil? https://www.amazon.com/Motul-300V-Ester-Synthetic-Oil/dp/B000GU5QDA/

Click to expand...

Why not using the OEM Honda oil? I had to do it since the warranty might be lost if I use something else! They have the Type 2.0 oil for type R and it says Synthetic oil. Only doubt I have is that why it's not saying Full Synthetic?!!!

mehrdad said:

Why not using the OEM Honda oil? I had to do it since the warranty might be lost if I use something else! They have the Type 2.0 oil for type R and it says Synthetic oil. Only doubt I have is that why it's not saying Full Synthetic?!!!

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I find it upsetting and disturbing, that so many seem to be so terrified of "Losing warranty protection", and therefore allow the Dealers to ride all over them and take unjustified advantage of this fear that the customer has of loosing warranty coverage,

And then, those that do everything to follow the instructions given, and then have a warranty issue, have to FIGHT so hard to actually get the expected warranty coverage.

Personally, I choose to do my own Oil changes (like many here) and will use the oil I CHOOSE to use, that meets or exceeds the spec given by Honda for the car.
This will typically NOT include an oil, just because it has a HONDA label on it, and I "CHOOSE" an alternative BETTER oil, because that is what I want to use.

Of course, the Dealer will say "You have to use HONDA Oil" - they get it in BULK, and make the most profit off it !!!

BTW: Still ROFL @ 15+ Hours for dealer to install a replacement Evaporator !!!
(best one I have heard this summer !!)

SCOPESYS said:

I find it upsetting and disturbing, that so many seem to be so terrified of "Losing warranty protection", and therefore allow the Dealers to ride all over them and take unjustified advantage of this fear that the customer has of loosing warranty coverage,

And then, those that do everything to follow the instructions given, and then have a warranty issue, have to FIGHT so hard to actually get the expected warranty coverage.

Personally, I choose to do my own Oil changes (like many here) and will use the oil I CHOOSE to use, that meets or exceeds the spec given by Honda for the car.
This will typically NOT include an oil, just because it has a HONDA label on it, and I "CHOOSE" an alternative BETTER oil, because that is what I want to use.

Of course, the Dealer will say "You have to use HONDA Oil" - they get it in BULK, and make the most profit off it !!!

BTW: Still ROFL @ 15+ Hours for dealer to install a replacement Evaporator !!!
(best one I have heard this summer !!)

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It's good to find better stuff if of course we could say that what Honda is using is in fact not really the best which I couldn't find anywhere and anybody to know much about them.
I completely agree with you, however in my case since the car is a second hand and already had some evidence of track days I thought the best is not to loose the warranty at least for the first year that I own it. In fact this could be very few miles I could use it even in one year.

But I'm so curious to see any data of what Honda is using as their OEM oil and who really makes it for them.

FYI I did my own oil at around 18k miles and made an instructional video here:


If you plan on doing your own changes in the future, would definitely recommend a valve. Install it once and never worry about over torquing the drain bolt and crush washers again.

Thank you. I watched it and was very helpful. Appreciate you doing that. I will be installing a Fumoto F-106S with valve locking clip next go around. Is that the valve you went with?

I just wish the Fumoto had threads on the end so could screw on a cap or plug, in case it were ever to leak through.

ez12a said:

FYI I did my own oil at around 18k miles and made an instructional video here:


If you plan on doing your own changes in the future, would definitely recommend a valve. Install it once and never worry about over torquing the drain bolt and crush washers again.

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