full review, writeup, and installation steps: ctr subs, amp, center channel, and door speakers

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ctrmofo

ctrmofo

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I see several subs on Crutchfield and the prices are good, just don't know how they would work with the JL speakers I will be installing on Friday. Don't need big power, just better bass & don't want to mess with the amp.
Yes strongly recommend the shallow 8” Kicker dual voice coil like this one which you need to wire in series to be a 2 ohm load. Stock amp will only work with 2 ohm sub. You can also get the Kicker dual voice coil 4 ohm which you would wire in parallel to be 2 ohm. Both of them work exactly same.
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Question: Does upgrading the subwoofer require upgrading the stock amp as well? I wouldn't mind upgrading the sub, but only if it is a direct swap. Don't want to mess with aftermarket amps or wiring. I don't know enough about car audio to go down that road (yet).
no, you don't have to upgrade stock amp. you can use stock amp which has 100-150w dedicated to the sub channel to drive the sub. that's fine.
 
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I see several subs on Crutchfield and the prices are good, just don't know how they would work with the JL speakers I will be installing on Friday. Don't need big power, just better bass & don't want to mess with the amp.
any 8" sub with no more than 3-5/8" mounting depth will install in the stock box, and that's why i tried several of them. just make sure the one you choose can be wired as 2 ohms since the stock sub will only want to see a 2 ohms load.
 

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I will be in town in three weeks and you should listen to my set up to give you an idea the sound difference.
Great thread, thanks to all who gave info. After lots of reading & shopping around, bought the following:
JL C2-350 for center channel
(4) JL C2-650x for all doors
XTC Baffle cones
10”x10” Dynamat Extreme to surround speaker holes
Enough Dynamat Superlite for all doors & hatch
Road Kill foam surrounds for speakers

A lot of this thread is over my head, so running all on stock HU & amp.

Will see how this sounds & then decide about door tweeters.

Again, appreciate the education!
 

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you use amp Oem for speaker door and rockford for sub?
 


jinderC

Tapped into the front speakers (left and right) to feed the LC2i. Kicker shallow 8” sub. Rockford T500 power amp. Remote gain knob installed. Swapped the centre speaker and front door speakers with JL audio 2-ways
Sounds a million times deeper, richer and more sonically balanced

Honda Civic 10th gen full review, writeup, and installation steps: ctr subs, amp, center channel, and door speakers DD3F584D-9181-4D98-BE50-281F9BF1C19E


Honda Civic 10th gen full review, writeup, and installation steps: ctr subs, amp, center channel, and door speakers 1EB18642-B34B-49BE-98EE-65A4080AED48


Honda Civic 10th gen full review, writeup, and installation steps: ctr subs, amp, center channel, and door speakers 08C6BD57-AB89-4D92-84A8-B0DDB9CB9EAB


Honda Civic 10th gen full review, writeup, and installation steps: ctr subs, amp, center channel, and door speakers 562A8DF9-1EC2-4894-8684-26D1574A5427


Honda Civic 10th gen full review, writeup, and installation steps: ctr subs, amp, center channel, and door speakers 1BBC86D9-62A7-49FE-B900-FB0984C9B71C
 

Yuma

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i have found this very interesting article for connect to oem connector of amp male 18+8 pins but no cut ;=)

https://axxessinterfaces.com/product/AX-AB-HN1

if you have remove amp oem it's possible to unscrew the body of amp and take pictures of the inside of the amplifier for see composants
 

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I'm new to this thread. Getting my civic SI monday. What is your setup?
Oops. Did the "search" thing. This is typer R forum. But I assume the setup is the same except for my sub placement. Any suggestions for sub swap on the Si sedan? I pretty much plan on doing the JL sub and speaker replacement with seperate amp running to sub. Just wonder if the configuration of sub up on rear deck should have me considering different sub.
 

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i finish to read completly this thread

just a note on setting up filter kit on tweeters.
The amplifier oem filter already has out the tweeters and sat back so no need for passive filter.
if you remove the amplifier oem it is necessary to put if the tweeter are not managed by the secondary amp

diagram of 11/12speakers(11speaker in eu model not subwoofer for audio premium, strange)

Honda Civic 10th gen full review, writeup, and installation steps: ctr subs, amp, center channel, and door speakers speakercolordiagramnam
i​
 


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I'm new to this thread. Getting my civic SI monday. What is your setup?
I have audison voce components up front, jlaudio 8w3 as the sub, oem rear speakers, audison 5ch amp, and audison bit one.
 

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the hu sees a different and much smaller load when you feed the stock sub speaker level output into the external. it then thinks, "oh crap...ohm is less than 2 ohms of the oem sub," so it shuts off bass signal to the sub line for protection.

Please could you clarify

You are feeding the SUB output from the HU (or the HU's Oem amp) to the addon amp, that is expecting a signal that would normally go to the oem speaker.

Are you saying that the HU (or HU's OEM Amp) shuts down because it sees too HIGH a resistance or too Low a resistance. ?

Either cases could be easily overcome.

(a) If The New Amps input is say 2 Ohms:
and the HU does not like that low 2 ohms, (because it expect 4 ohms), then all you have to do is put an additional 2 ohm resistor in series with on of the lead to the Amp.
( You will then get 50% of the output dropped across the resistor, but you are going to set the AMP gain in any case, so it can be compensated for)

or

(b) If The New Amps input is say high resistance (>>> 4 Ohms)
and the HU does not like that high resistance, (because it expect 4 ohms), then all you have to do is put a 4 (or 5 ohm) ohm resistor ACROSS the leads to the Amp.

Resistors should be high wattage... There are nice Mountable 100W resistors that would be ideal, and can be mounted securely with a couple of screws/bolts.
(They will dissipate heat well, and stay reasonably cool, especially is you mount them onto a large metal surface ares)

https://www.ebay.com/itm/100W-Watt-...ound-Resistor-1-2-3-4-6-8-10-Ohm/232458049204
Note: In case (b) with the 4-5 ohm across the leads -- you might benefit from a slightly higher resistor (if the HU will not shut down), because then the HU will not be running so much Max Watts into the load, and will run cooler, save wasted energy, and might even have a less distorted output at that lower max wattage.
ie maybe 10 Ohms (50W)


Today, I just completed a 4 ohm X 10 load for testing the Honda 10 Channel Amps (as used in Si & Touring). (as well as the 4 channel HU internal Amps HUs)
Plan is to get some quantitative measurements to what these Honda Amps are actually doing in terms of Frequency response, distortion, and variations with simulated car speed.

Resistor_Loads.jpg

Used the 4 Ohm 100W Resistors I reference above in the Load Matching comments.
Do you have new of this test for input spdif2?
 

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Great! You’ll find a big change in front stage imagining with the center speaker upgrade then big improvements in mid bass especially because you’re also doing sound deadening in the doors. That does wonders for broading yet focusing the mid bass. Yes, all works well with stock amp for plenty of sounds. Goes to show we don’t need complicated setups for very good improvements while saving the wallet.

Soon you’ll look into the sub and external amp upgrade once the bug bites! Enjoy!
So I'm curious with the above setup (JL in all 4 doors) if there is bass attenuation / sub cutoff from the head unit? I'm considering this same exact setup. Just want to make sure the already weak stock sub won't be compromised going forward. I'm confident the JL C2s and proper sound deadening will get me where I want. As far as sound deadening, I'm considering deadening inside the door behind the vapor barrier by pulling the barrier halfway down. Seems like it could be easier than cleaning up all the goop involved with vapor barrier.
 

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do you have maximum depth in front door woofer door to windows glass?
thanks
 

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Thank you @ctrmofo for this thread. I honestly thought my brand new ST hatch had a defective HU when I picked it up from the dealer. How is that even called a "premium" sound system? Started looking at custom boxes, similar to what I had in my 8th gen sedan, Audio Integrations. Not much out there. This thread, and a YT video from piercedasian restored my faith in humanity.

The Pioneer sub is now installed, driven by Alpine MRV-M500, which I salvaged from my 8th gen Civic. Finally the audio has some soul in it, although response could be a bit more crisp (another sub maybe). Will tackle the door speakers and the center channel next year. Happy to be hearing notes below 80Hz in the meantime. BTW... is there an ideal HU SUBW level to maintain? I have the remote knob on the Alpine amp to tweak gain as needed, and bass EQ on the amp itself. What is the HU LP frequency?

Would be interested in that modified cover you created, but I get that it was a limited run. Thanks again for all the info on here!!
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