(HELP) Choose Wheel for Sport Hatchback(white color)?

lurker_j

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I dig your rims! Are those measurements able to run on stock suspension without rubbing and such?
Yeah, absolutely. The only issue is the +35 offset on a 9.5 in wide rim gives mild poke from the fender well with our Civics. So on stock suspension and ride height, you may end up with a bit of Tonka Truck vibe.
 

MrCivicHatch12

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Yeah, absolutely. The only issue is the +35 offset on a 9.5 in wide rim gives mild poke from the fender well with our Civics. So on stock suspension and ride height, you may end up with a bit of Tonka Truck vibe.
I thought you had the hatchback for a second but you have the si, I got a hatchback, does our suspension measurements differ or are they the same? And do you think going with 8.5 wide would eliminate the trucker vibe?
 

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I thought you had the hatchback for a second but you have the si, I got a hatchback, does our suspension measurements differ or are they the same? And do you think going with 8.5 wide would eliminate the trucker vibe?
The suspension measurements are the same between the Si sedan and Hatchbacks when it comes to wheel fitment. The 8.5 in wide would definitely pull it back into the fender well, very similar to how the stock 8 in wheel sits. Even a 9 in wheel with the +35 would make the wheel flush with the fender if you wanted it right about there, or a 9.5 wheel with +40 - +45 range gets you flush as well.
 


MrCivicHatch12

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The suspension measurements are the same between the Si sedan and Hatchbacks when it comes to wheel fitment. The 8.5 in wide would definitely pull it back into the fender well, very similar to how the stock 8 in wheel sits. Even a 9 in wheel with the +35 would make the wheel flush with the fender if you wanted it right about there, or a 9.5 wheel with +40 - +45 range gets you flush as well.
DId you get the rims at a local shop or at fitment industries? I thought wheels costed around a grand but i think its much more especially if you get new tires, IM assuming its gonna cost 2 grand:drive:
 

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DId you get the rims at a local shop or at fitment industries? I thought wheels costed around a grand but i think its much more especially if you get new tires, IM assuming its gonna cost 2 grand:drive:
I shopped around different places comparing prices and shipping costs. I ended up getting my wheels from AutoAnything.com since they were selling the wheels at 170.99 a piece for a total of 683.96, with free shipping. I transferred my OEM tires from the old wheels since I only had a couple thousand miles on them. That process cost me 5 bucks a wheel since the shop I was at only had to take the tires off wheel and put it on the new ones. So in all, I probably spent a little over 700 to get my wheels and tires put on.

Fitment industries has a lot of knowledge, but I usually only use them as a reference. They charge higher than other places when I looked.
 

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I shopped around different places comparing prices and shipping costs. I ended up getting my wheels from AutoAnything.com since they were selling the wheels at 170.99 a piece for a total of 683.96, with free shipping. I transferred my OEM tires from the old wheels since I only had a couple thousand miles on them. That process cost me 5 bucks a wheel since the shop I was at only had to take the tires off wheel and put it on the new ones. So in all, I probably spent a little over 700 to get my wheels and tires put on.

Fitment industries has a lot of knowledge, but I usually only use them as a reference. They charge higher than other places when I looked.
No Wonder. yeah i saw the prices at fitment industries and i was like holy crap i cant aford these rims LOLL:confused1:. I shall look on that website and other places. Thanks mate:beer:
 

MrCivicHatch12

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I shopped around different places comparing prices and shipping costs. I ended up getting my wheels from AutoAnything.com since they were selling the wheels at 170.99 a piece for a total of 683.96, with free shipping. I transferred my OEM tires from the old wheels since I only had a couple thousand miles on them. That process cost me 5 bucks a wheel since the shop I was at only had to take the tires off wheel and put it on the new ones. So in all, I probably spent a little over 700 to get my wheels and tires put on.

Fitment industries has a lot of knowledge, but I usually only use them as a reference. They charge higher than other places when I looked.
Yo Man, I checked out your build journal and I reaally dig it!!!! :spaz:.
As far as tires go, I saw you went with 235/40, and on fitment industries I saw people running the similar rim style with 225/40. But why is that tho? Is it more of a style?
 

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Yo Man, I checked out your build journal and I reaally dig it!!!! :spaz:.
As far as tires go, I saw you went with 235/40, and on fitment industries I saw people running the similar rim style with 225/40. But why is that tho? Is it more of a style?
Hey thanks! A lot of those people, myself included, are lowered, some by a significant amount. Because the 9.5 width of the rim with a +35 to +40 offset will put the tire right under the lowest part of the fender, they might run the 225s to prevent rub or just want the style of a really thin tire to try and get the rim edge close to touching the fender for that stance look.

I wouldn't do a 225/40 on a 9.5 in width rim. It really stretches the tire and make for a really bumpy ride from lack of the ability of the sidewall to flex much. But if you're coilovers and are super low, then the 225/40 might be all you can fit without rubbing on a daily driver.
 


MrCivicHatch12

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Hey thanks! A lot of those people, myself included, are lowered, some by a significant amount. Because the 9.5 width of the rim with a +35 to +40 offset will put the tire right under the lowest part of the fender, they might run the 225s to prevent rub or just want the style of a really thin tire to try and get the rim edge close to touching the fender for that stance look.

I wouldn't do a 225/40 on a 9.5 in width rim. It really stretches the tire and make for a really bumpy ride from lack of the ability of the sidewall to flex much. But if you're coilovers and are super low, then the 225/40 might be all you can fit without rubbing on a daily driver.
Thanks for the clarification and understanding what setup others are running and their purpose! In your opinion what would be the best set up If I was going for a flush look for stock suspension but maybe get coilovers in the future.
 

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Thanks for the clarification and understanding what setup others are running and their purpose! In your opinion what would be the best set up If I was going for a flush look for stock suspension but maybe get coilovers in the future.
Depending on what wheel you want and is available sizing wise, I'd stay 18 in just to keep the speedometer accurate and either 9.5 in wide with +40 to +45 offset, or 9 in wide with the +30 to +35 offset.

Check out @MavicTB's car, he has a good example of pretty flush set up with the 9.5 wide. You'll see it look likes the smallest amount of poke with a +40 offset (hard to see with his garage pic angles), so maybe go a little higher offset to +45 if you run a 9.5 in width.
 

MrCivicHatch12

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Depending on what wheel you want and is available sizing wise, I'd stay 18 in just to keep the speedometer accurate and either 9.5 in wide with +40 to +45 offset, or 9 in wide with the +30 to +35 offset.

Check out @MavicTB's car, he has a good example of pretty flush set up with the 9.5 wide. You'll see it look likes the smallest amount of poke with a +40 offset (hard to see with his garage pic angles), so maybe go a little higher offset to +45 if you run a 9.5 in width.
One last question if 18x8.5 35+ and 18x9.5 40+ sits flush with the car what will be the difference ? would it just be how wide the tires will look from the a back profile view of the car?
 

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One last question if 18x8.5 35+ and 18x9.5 40+ sits flush with the car what will be the difference ? would it just be how wide the tires will look from the a back profile view of the car?
9.5 width tire gives you a whole extra inch to add tire onto if you want to, therefore you can use wider tires in the future if you so choose (more grip if you want it). The 8.5 width won't be able to use the same larger widths of tires as effectively. The 9.5 width also adds more weight than an 8.5 width would. BUT remember that our OEM wheels are 18 x 8 +50 offset. The further you get away from that OEM offset that the car was designed and balanced upon, the more premature wear you potentially put on your wheel bearings and suspension. Though the 8 in wide wheel may save some weight and use smaller width tires (which will also be cheaper to change), your larger difference in offset from OEM may have a larger effect.

So you choose a wheel with what your goals really are: longevity? cool looks? weight? etc. Some will say the differences are negligible, but it is really going to depend on how bad your roads are, how you drive, and what kind of driving experience you are looking for.

If you get that 9.5 wide inch wheel, and stretch those tires, you will feel the road a lot more, including all the bumps more harshly and less grip in certain conditions. If you get the 9.5 wide wheel with tires that actually fit the wheel (like a 255 or 265 width tire), you get more grip and possibly more sidewall to keep the roads feeling less harsh (if you choose a tire with a sidewall ratio that is as large or larger than what you have now. Meaning currently OEM= 235/40 (or 40% of 235 mm is the height of the sidewall) = 94 mm tall tire sidewall; if you get a 255/30 tire, then it becomes 255*0.3 = 76.5 mm tall sidewall. That 18 mm difference in sidewall height may give you better handling, but will also make hitting potholes reverberate a little easier into your spine. So if you want comfort, aim to keep that sidewall around what you have at the OEM level.

The caveat to what I noted above is you had mentioned before possibly putting on coilovers later. If you wheels that will sit flush with the fender, then your tire edge will also sit as such. When you lower that car on coils, you are going to get rub. The only ways to reduce the rub will be to 1) get thinner tires, 2) get thinner wheels, 3) roll the fenders to give you more wheel clearance, and/or 4) raise the height of the coilovers (if you can).
 

MrCivicHatch12

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9.5 width tire gives you a whole extra inch to add tire onto if you want to, therefore you can use wider tires in the future if you so choose (more grip if you want it). The 8.5 width won't be able to use the same larger widths of tires as effectively. The 9.5 width also adds more weight than an 8.5 width would. BUT remember that our OEM wheels are 18 x 8 +50 offset. The further you get away from that OEM offset that the car was designed and balanced upon, the more premature wear you potentially put on your wheel bearings and suspension. Though the 8 in wide wheel may save some weight and use smaller width tires (which will also be cheaper to change), your larger difference in offset from OEM may have a larger effect.

So you choose a wheel with what your goals really are: longevity? cool looks? weight? etc. Some will say the differences are negligible, but it is really going to depend on how bad your roads are, how you drive, and what kind of driving experience you are looking for.

If you get that 9.5 wide inch wheel, and stretch those tires, you will feel the road a lot more, including all the bumps more harshly and less grip in certain conditions. If you get the 9.5 wide wheel with tires that actually fit the wheel (like a 255 or 265 width tire), you get more grip and possibly more sidewall to keep the roads feeling less harsh (if you choose a tire with a sidewall ratio that is as large or larger than what you have now. Meaning currently OEM= 235/40 (or 40% of 235 mm is the height of the sidewall) = 94 mm tall tire sidewall; if you get a 255/30 tire, then it becomes 255*0.3 = 76.5 mm tall sidewall. That 18 mm difference in sidewall height may give you better handling, but will also make hitting potholes reverberate a little easier into your spine. So if you want comfort, aim to keep that sidewall around what you have at the OEM level.

The caveat to what I noted above is you had mentioned before possibly putting on coilovers later. If you wheels that will sit flush with the fender, then your tire edge will also sit as such. When you lower that car on coils, you are going to get rub. The only ways to reduce the rub will be to 1) get thinner tires, 2) get thinner wheels, 3) roll the fenders to give you more wheel clearance, and/or 4) raise the height of the coilovers (if you can).
WOW Thank you man, I feel like I just learned so much about tires&wheels from you compared to a week ago! if i could give you a hug i would :respect::drive:
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