Hondata help

Deadgame

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I just installed my Hondata Flash Pro and need a bit of help.

1. Given the recent advancements that Hondata has made, a lot of the info I'm searching through is not covered. I currently have PRL front pipe, down pipe (no cat) and intercooler on 93 oct. I don't drag the car or go to the track. It's my daily, although I try to get as many spirited drives in as possible. With that said, the configurations available with Hondata are overwhelming. I will get a custom tune once I complete my mods with PRL's new intake and charge pipe. Until then, what are the essential option boxes I should be checking to optimize the OTS tune?

2. I tried to get the Hondata app working on my head unit for two hours tonight with limited success...My car is a '18, so I checked the box for alternate bluetooth pairing, and can pair the flash pro with the head unit. When I go to the app on the head unit it tries to connect and fails repeatedly. The only way I can get it to work is by unchecking the alternate bluetooth option under the flash pro tab and then the head unit will not find the flash pro, but when I go to the Hondata app on the head unit it allows me to select and pair my flash pro. I do have to hit a couple of buttons to make this work though. Is this normal? I have never seen the lightning bolt on the Hondata app start up screen that I have seen in numerous videos either. I am running the most current versions of flash pro and the app. I've reinstalled the Hondata app several times and unplugged and plugged the flash pro cables back in as the directions state, all to no avail. I've also rebooted the head unit several times. I'd appreciate any ideas you might have. Thanks in advance!
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ok, good questions. i've helped a number of people successfully so give the following a try. others with other experiences may chime including @Hondata .

a) what to choose for mods list:
1) after selecting the right base tune for your mods and the calibration loads into fpm, click mods tab.
2) shown here is my mods list for a 93 base tune with fbos.
3) note, a couple things are optional like "anti lag" and "traction control"...those are totally up to you.
4) once done click "close" so mods are loaded into the tune you've selected.
5) back in the tune window choose "fuel" then "pump" and check the box to enable fuel limit.
6) leave all else alone.​

b) bt connection problems:
1) which version of honda hack do you have? strongly suggest honda hack pro's latest version v4.8.16 for much more features to optimize performance of apps.
2) which version of hondata app do you have? it should be v1.5 which is available for download from hondata's help forum.
3) once you've confirmed both of those latest versions, yes - you need "alternative bt" checked.
4) uninstall hondata app in the hu and remove the paired fp device in the hu.
5) remove all other unnecessary apps like netflix, youtube, etc. that many like to install.
6) remove all google services and apps.
7) unplug the fp from the obd2 port.
8) with engine running or ignition on, reinstall hondata app v1.5.
8) make sure the hu is not connected to more than 2 devices - your phone and fp. the hu does not like or will not connect to 3 devices. if you have a 3rd device, you'll need to delete it from the hu's paired bt device list.
9) turn off honda link's auto bt connection to your phone.
10) make sure the hu is not connected to any bt device such as your phone. turn off your phone's bt temporarily.
11) still with engine running or ignition on, plug the fp into the obd2 port and wait a few seconds for it to power on.
12) pair the fp to the hu.
13) launch hondata app and should auto connect via bt without you touching the lighting which automatically turns yellow and gauges show up.
c) fast start (see my ig link to see how fast mine starts, auto launch, auto connects, etc.)
1) go into honda hack pro.
2) choose "startup settings" --> "auto launch app at startup" and select "hondata".
3) choose "delay after few seconds before launching app" and select 0 secs.
4) choose "delay after few seconds before sending play command" and select 0 secs.
5) go back to the main menu and choose "optimization" --> "free memory" and click ok.
6) choose "clear app cache" and click ok.
all the above should work and get you up and running. here's what mine looks like (now with auto +R mode startup as default mode too). you'll see that the honda warning and click ok doesn't even show up anymore.

go to my "fk8 product reviews" fb group in signature below for a lot more info we post about hondata and updates. good luck!



Honda Civic 10th gen Hondata help upload_2019-6-18_2-1-47

Honda Civic 10th gen Hondata help upload_2019-6-18_2-4-1
Honda Civic 10th gen Hondata help upload_2019-6-18_2-15-16
Honda Civic 10th gen Hondata help upload_2019-6-18_2-17-9
 
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Deadgame

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Thank you! When you checked the box for the fuel pump, did you leave the values where the were (88 iirc). No need to disable the secondary O2 sensor?
 
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I just installed my Hondata Flash Pro and need a bit of help.

1. Given the recent advancements that Hondata has made, a lot of the info I'm searching through is not covered. I currently have PRL front pipe, down pipe (no cat) and intercooler on 93 oct. I don't drag the car or go to the track. It's my daily, although I try to get as many spirited drives in as possible. With that said, the configurations available with Hondata are overwhelming. I will get a custom tune once I complete my mods with PRL's new intake and charge pipe. Until then, what are the essential option boxes I should be checking to optimize the OTS tune?

2. I tried to get the Hondata app working on my head unit for two hours tonight with limited success...My car is a '18, so I checked the box for alternate bluetooth pairing, and can pair the flash pro with the head unit. When I go to the app on the head unit it tries to connect and fails repeatedly. The only way I can get it to work is by unchecking the alternate bluetooth option under the flash pro tab and then the head unit will not find the flash pro, but when I go to the Hondata app on the head unit it allows me to select and pair my flash pro. I do have to hit a couple of buttons to make this work though. Is this normal? I have never seen the lightning bolt on the Hondata app start up screen that I have seen in numerous videos either. I am running the most current versions of flash pro and the app. I've reinstalled the Hondata app several times and unplugged and plugged the flash pro cables back in as the directions state, all to no avail. I've also rebooted the head unit several times. I'd appreciate any ideas you might have. Thanks in advance!
Just something else to think about. I just got my Hondata as well. I went through all the stuff to get the app on head unit. But... its fairly useless for the everyday street driver other then something cool on the screen. I mean its cool and all and shows you real time stats but , you cant look at it while driving anyway and it keeps you from using any other function of the head unit while its on screen. it looks cool for passengers but honestly its not real useful. At least not for everyday driving. So if you cant get it working dont beat yourself up over it you are not really missing anything. I guess what Im saying is its is neat and looks cool but for everyday drivers its not real useful. The tenth of a second you are glancing at it and not watching the road is not worth it. if you need a real time gauge for something . using the app on your phone is better and you can put the phone right in your field of view. I can see how the on screen app on the navi unit is very useful for dyno and such and for on the track but everyday street driving.. not so much.

Now I did use it for my buddy to look at while I was driving to see if he saw anything I needed to change but even then he could have just watched the app on a phone as well. Just don't kill yourself trying to get it to work if it dont. I went through all that and then after it works I am like eh... and havnt used it since really. Just a different point of view to consider.

Plus the other thing to consider is in order for it to work the Flashpro has to be always connected to the car. Thats a bunch of needless powering off and on of the Flashpro that could eventually power spike it or wear it out. Most electronics measure their life span in what is called power on life cycle. electronics wear out just from being powered on. Not sure I want to wear out my 695.00 flashpro just to have an app on the screen.
 
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Thank you! When you checked the box for the fuel pump, did you leave the values where the were (88 iirc). No need to disable the secondary O2 sensor?
no reason to have the fuel pump limit on if your not hitting the the fuel pump limit and dropping fuel pressure. You would have to datalog a pull to see if you are. No real reason to have full throttle shift and anti lag on also.

if you are running a catless downpipe you would have to disable the secondary o2.
 


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Deadgame

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You guys rock! Thank you for the assistance. I drove to work this morning and absolutely could tell the difference between the Ktuner ots map and this new Hondata setup. I can’t even chalk it up to my butt dyno. The car pulls harder.
 

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Thank you! When you checked the box for the fuel pump, did you leave the values where the were (88 iirc). No need to disable the secondary O2 sensor?
yes, leave it at 88 and 88 to be safe. you need to data log to look at actual fuel pump duty cycle and adjust from there or remove the checkbox if you're well below 100% fuel pump duty cycle.

no need to disable o2 sensor if you are not getting the p101 and p103 cel codes. in my case i've been using graham rahal's full turbo back exhaust with catted dp and never ever had a cell since a year ago, so i've never had a need to check this box.
 

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Just something else to think about. I just got my Hondata as well. I went through all the stuff to get the app on head unit. But... its fairly useless for the everyday street driver other then something cool on the screen. I mean its cool and all and shows you real time stats but , you cant look at it while driving anyway and it keeps you from using any other function of the head unit while its on screen. it looks cool for passengers but honestly its not real useful. At least not for everyday driving. So if you cant get it working dont beat yourself up over it you are not really missing anything. I guess what Im saying is its is neat and looks cool but for everyday drivers its not real useful. The tenth of a second you are glancing at it and not watching the road is not worth it. if you need a real time gauge for something . using the app on your phone is better and you can put the phone right in your field of view. I can see how the on screen app on the navi unit is very useful for dyno and such and for on the track but everyday street driving.. not so much.

Now I did use it for my buddy to look at while I was driving to see if he saw anything I needed to change but even then he could have just watched the app on a phone as well. Just don't kill yourself trying to get it to work if it dont. I went through all that and then after it works I am like eh... and havnt used it since really. Just a different point of view to consider.

Plus the other thing to consider is in order for it to work the Flashpro has to be always connected to the car. Thats a bunch of needless powering off and on of the Flashpro that could eventually power spike it or wear it out. Most electronics measure their life span in what is called power on life cycle. electronics wear out just from being powered on. Not sure I want to wear out my 695.00 flashpro just to have an app on the screen.
it's a personal preference but the gauge display is not useless but very useful. for flex fuel, i simply see a % and that's all i need. all else i monitor ect and afr right there with no need to dig around for 2 numbers.

also, i data log a lot...by a lot i mean i have nearly 200 logs now to study and analyze real world back road runs with the gauge app as the real time monitor. for me it's not coolness factor but my "flight display" if you will ;-)
 
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no reason to have the fuel pump limit on if your not hitting the the fuel pump limit and dropping fuel pressure. You would have to datalog a pull to see if you are. No real reason to have full throttle shift and anti lag on also.

if you are running a catless downpipe you would have to disable the secondary o2.
correct but here's what i've found out...on my tunes including base 93 with mods i would hit 95% fuel duty cycle in some areas. it's more of a safety valve here as i continue to tweak my tunes over and over again...and of course flex fuel.

i use anti lag very rarely and usually on a roll on the freeway, not like some who sit there in parking lot pushing the "cancel" button for a long time and show off...not good.

full throttle shift makes my power shifting much smoother than the old days of no software intervention and head knocking dogged tranny shifting.

overall, yes, those are optional based on user needs etc.
 

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You guys rock! Thank you for the assistance. I drove to work this morning and absolutely could tell the difference between the Ktuner ots map and this new Hondata setup. I can’t even chalk it up to my butt dyno. The car pulls harder.
did the bt get fixed for the app to auto connect?

did you do the optimization in hondata for no lag and quick startup, assuming you have honda hack pro?
 


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I keep Hondata up on my HU at all times and find that one of its most useful features is as a shift light, once you get used to it.
 

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I keep Hondata up on my HU at all times and find that one of its most useful features is as a shift light, once you get used to it.
true, even though i don't use the app's yellow shift light but go by feel and sound or meter on the dash, having that blinking big yellow on the whole hu i see out the corner of my eye works well to complement.
 

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correct but here's what i've found out...on my tunes including base 93 with mods i would hit 95% fuel duty cycle in some areas. it's more of a safety valve here as i continue to tweak my tunes over and over again...and of course flex fuel.

i use anti lag very rarely and usually on a roll on the freeway, not like some who sit there in parking lot pushing the "cancel" button for a long time and show off...not good.

full throttle shift makes my power shifting much smoother than the old days of no software intervention and head knocking dogged tranny shifting.

overall, yes, those are optional based on user needs etc.
the thing is you can and will hit over the limit you have it set at (it will still hit 100% and drop fuel pressure) even when enabled and once you hit it, it makes your air charge very choppy because it's trying to limit the pump. It is better to just not rely on that and tweak the tune so your not hitting 100%.
This is from my own experience of trying it out when messing with flex fuel (currently on E27). I too have numerous datalogs and am basically datalogging every time i drive the car and tweak the tune myself.

if anything, you can add it after you finish tweaking the tune as a safety valve but having something limiting you and giving you technically a false value while adjusting the tune is not really the correct way to do it imo.

Regarding anti lag and FTS, your right, it is all up to the user needs. I personally feel that unless i'm at the drag strip or like to street race, it is not needed. The cons outweigh the pros for me especially with anti lag.
 
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did the bt get fixed for the app to auto connect?

did you do the optimization in hondata for no lag and quick startup, assuming you have honda hack pro?
I do have Honda hack pro. I'll be home from work within the hour and will give it a go. Hope it'll go smoothly now that I have your detailed instructions. Will report back.

Update: Tune went smooth, but the bt/Hondata app worked 50% of the time. When it doesn’t, I get the repeated connection failed/retrying message. I got it to work and then did the tune, but now it’s failing to connect. Should I have done the tune first, then the app, or does it even matter? I uninstalled the app again and re-installed, but couldn’t get it to work until I cycled the ignition 4-5 times. It’s worked consistently for 2 drives now. We’ll see if it continues to..in any case, I owe you!
 
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the thing is you can and will hit over the limit you have it set at (it will still hit 100% and drop fuel pressure) even when enabled and once you hit it, it makes your air charge very choppy because it's trying to limit the pump. It is better to just not rely on that and tweak the tune so your not hitting 100%.
This is from my own experience of trying it out when messing with flex fuel (currently on E27). I too have numerous datalogs and am basically datalogging every time i drive the car and tweak the tune myself.

if anything, you can add it after you finish tweaking the tune as a safety valve but having something limiting you and giving you technically a false value while adjusting the tune is not really the correct way to do it imo.

Regarding anti lag and FTS, your right, it is all up to the user needs. I personally feel that unless i'm at the drag strip or like to street race, it is not needed. The cons outweigh the pros for me especially with anti lag.
agreed, that's what i meant and not much different in what i do i apply it afterwards. choppy with flex fuel but less so or none on regular 93 octane.

to be safe for new users, checking the fuel pump box is a good path using base tunes. once they start messing with it, then i can't say what's done or not done until i see the logs ;-)
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