The Infamous 2nd Gear Crunch

CTR1633FK2 · May 22, 2019

Gansan said:
Regarding notchiness, I think it's the nature of this transmission. It's more notchy than all my previous cars, and I think that's the design.

I do not agree. The FK2R transmission is the same as the FK8 and it is the smoothest of all cars I have owned (DC2, S2000, EK, EG, CU2).

ExVTEC · May 22, 2019

I still drive light to moderate since my car is 5 days old. I always press the clutch all the way down. I have not done any fast shifting like in a race.

foyevtsov · May 22, 2019

ExVTEC said:
I still drive light to moderate since my car is 5 days old. I always press the clutch all the way down. I have not done any fast shifting like in a race.

Keep your eye on, and keep us posted. Thanks

SHIFTT_IX_MR · May 31, 2019

Does anyone with a lighten flywheel feel like it helped reduce grinding? I've been thinking if that flywheel (the oe one) is really heavy, shifts up top my grind if the engine speed isn't reduced fast enough to match the speed of the next gear. Am I wrong with this assessment?

Lust · Jun 25, 2019

I am on my second type R now and can say that this 2019 FK8 is much more rough than my previous FK8. It’s still breaking in and I am noticing improvements as I drive it. Most gears still notchy and I’m roughly around 700 miles. No grinds as of yet. I did notice that this clutch pedal isn’t adjusted the same as my 2018 FK8. I’ll probably add a little bit of preload and more pedal travel to see if it will help. The 2018 FK8 I had was butter from day 1...

Edit: I just adjusted my clutch pedal to have more pedal travel and more preload. Initial impressions from driving around the block are improved shifts that aren’t as notchy. Still some here and there but I’d imagine that it will get better through break in and a fluid change down the line.

02SilverSiHB · Jun 25, 2019

22k miles and no grinds here. 2017 FK8

Gansan · Jun 25, 2019

SHIFTT_IX_MR said:
Does anyone with a lighten flywheel feel like it helped reduce grinding? I've been thinking if that flywheel (the oe one) is really heavy, shifts up top my grind if the engine speed isn't reduced fast enough to match the speed of the next gear. Am I wrong with this assessment?

When the clutch is down, the flywheel is disconnected from the transmission, so it should make no difference to grinding. The only way it would make a difference is if the clutch cannot completely disconnect and is dragging on the flywheel while you are changing gears.

hpbyhermann · Jun 26, 2019

elmerzasty said:
I encourage all ’grinders’ to try this: My 19' Type R has just over 2,000 miles on it and it has had an occasional grind since day one, the first time it happened was on my ride home from buying it. I thought that I must not have pressed the clutch pedal hard enough. I've been driving stick cars for 30 plus years, they ranged from daily driver SI Civics to very fast street and race cars so I was pretty puzzled. Especially since my daily since 2011 was a 09' SI. I figured I'd give it a while to break in and see what happens. Today I decided to adjust the CMC and if the test drive I just took was any indication it seems that the adjustments worked. This was an issue when accelerating briskly and shifting into second gear, but not at WOT. If this changes I'll report back!

Has anyone experienced gear grind AFTER deleting CDV?

Lust · Jun 26, 2019

Deleting the CDV in the slave does nothing for grinding and notchy shifts. Adjust your Clutch pedal or possibly get the modified CMC to help remedy the grind

Maximum6 · Jun 26, 2019

Hayabusa160 said:
i agree adjust the clutch petal people!! 2nd gear shifts like butter now.
i left about 3 to 4 threads on the stopper and adjusted the push rod to take the slack out.

Any videos to show how to adjust on the Fk8 Type R?

I did clutch pedal free play adjustment on S2000

Lust · Jun 26, 2019

Maximum6 said:
Any videos to show how to adjust on the Fk8 Type R?

I did clutch pedal free play adjustment on S2000

No but it’s the same concept. You loosen a 17mm nut to access overall pedal travel. Aim for 3-5 threads. Get a 12mm wrench to loosen the nut attached to the cmc rod. Spin the rod clockwise with your hand until you feel resistance. Stop and tighten everything back up. Check your work by pushing your slave cylinder by hand. IF you can still push fluid through the Slave you’re good to go.

Maximum6 · Jun 26, 2019

I want to try but I saw this post #2

https://www.civicx.com/threads/any-way-to-adjust-the-stock-clutch-to-be-shorter.21204/

And looked more complicated than the s2000 clutch free play fix

Lust · Jun 26, 2019

Maximum6 said:
I want to try but I saw this post #2

https://www.civicx.com/threads/any-way-to-adjust-the-stock-clutch-to-be-shorter.21204/

And looked more complicated than the s2000 clutch free play fix

It’s honestly really simple... I can make a video if necessary

jsyar · Jun 28, 2019

I resolved the grind with the inclusion of the Acuity bushings at the cables and the base bushings.

JW0914 · Jun 29, 2019

Fk8 4343 said:
My transmission has felt better after removing the CDV. If you remove it, please report if the CDV improves or eliminates grinding.

Here are the instructions:
CTR Clutch Delay Valve Removal

Not recommended for a variety of reasons. Should a user choose to do so, they should first understand what the CDV does and how your driving experience will be different after removing it. Most drivers will likely not wish to do so.

Severedninja said:
What did that all cost you and did you get to keep your warranty?

In the US, you're protected by the Magnusson-Moss Warranty Act of 1975 (15 USC §2302)
I've become exasperated repeatedly posting the same information, so I compiled a one page PDF which lays out the MMWA, combined with information from the FTC, who directly addresses aftermarket parts specifically.

Aftermarket parts and accessories, whether installed by a dealer, a shop, or yourself, do not void your warranty.

ez12a said:
...Personally, I occasionally have 4th gear lock out issues.

You're likely experiencing a misalignment with the rocker on the shifter (i.e. you're not shifting in a perfectly straight line, a common issue most have experienced).

Replacing the rocker on the shifter with a performance one from Acuity or another brand does help, however, if you're using the stock shift knob, or another shift knob at the same height, you'll still experience this due to the physics of a shorter lever.

PAX CTR said:
Just adding my 2 cents. I've got about 800 miles on my R and I occasionally experience the notchy gear shift (only from 1st to 2nd)... I've read on other threads where guys would replace the shift knob with a heavier knob and that seems to help them.

The "notchiness" is due to the physics of a short lever. It can be permanently removed by increasing the length of the lever [shifter rod] by utilizing a longer shift knob, which is why the red leather wrapped Type R knob is a night and day difference in shifting experience compared to the OEM aluminum ball knob

turboshawn said:
.... [very long post at 12 lines, 433 words, and 2,201 characters with no formatting or paragraphs]....

Formatting and paragraphs are your friends... please make use of them =]

EckotypeR said:
...grind meaning a long grind as it won't go into gear?

upshifting s 3 and 4 sometimes you will hear a slight click as it goes into gear. I'm not sure if this forum would call it a grind. majority will go into gears without any problems, butter-smooth, but other times I hear a click as it goes into gear.

A grind is a grind... an actual grinding of the gears and you will know if it's a grind from the sound alone... what you're describing is a result of the rocker on the shifter and not shifting in a perfectly straight line (something all owners have an occasional issue with).

This rocker and gate alignment "notchiness" will be far more noticeable with a shorter shifter rod [total] length due to the physics of a shorter lever. A weighted knob makes less of a difference when compared with the knob's length, which adds to the overall length of the lever [shifter rod].

Hayabusa160 said:
the first 3 to 4k the trans is very tight and notchy...

See above replies

EckotypeR said:
Is there a weighted knob that resembles the stock knob? I prefer the stock knob. Would you recommend the Stage 2 shifter kit from Acuity?

See above replies, as the knob weight has less to do with the shifting experience when compared to the shifter rod's overall length with the knob installed (OEM ball shifter weighs quite a bit).

Acuity's stage 2 kit will provide a difference in the shifting experience, mainly due to the rocker and length of the shifter Esco knob they're providing (it's huge and barely matches a CW CTR)

jsyar said:
I think the weighted knob does help the 2nd gear grind. I'm hesitant to say that it fixed it, but it hasn't happened to me since I added the knob. I'm really wondering if there's just too much linkage friction to overcome in the shifting mechanism. The Honda upgraded knob is slightly longer and heavier (see post #1143), which helps the average driver overcome the linkage friction.

Your experience is due to the physics of a longer lever, or the total length of the shifter rod with knob... a little difference in height of the knob makes an enormous difference.

MisterC said:
has always ground into 2nd really, but it's eased up in the last 9k. Really I can tell it only grinds if the engine is pitched or at a funny yaw angle, so it happens usually if I'm accelerating in 1st hard, in a turn, and go for 2nd.

Lockouts when downshifting or moving to 4th seem much less prevalent after almost 30k miles as well.

Far too many are equating rocker and gate spacing issues with gear grinds and gear lockouts... which are neither.

If you're actually grinding gears, you'll know, as it's an unmistakable sound and feeling in the shifter.

If you're actually being locked out of gears by the mechanics of the clutch or transmission, you'll know, as it's also unmistakable
- i.e. clutch fully depressed, transmission grinds and fails to go into gear for a half second, and upon going back to neutral and shifting again, gear engages, of which is likely due to a synchro issue

When users are using inaccurate words to describe an issue, such as equating rocker and gate spacing issues to actual gear grinds and gear lockouts by the transmission, it creates issues for everyone who actually is experiencing gear grinds.

Majority of users are claiming they have gear grinds when they don't, as they're assuming/correlating the rocker and gate issue is/as a grind... You will know with 100% certainty if you've had a gear grind, as it's an unmistakably horrendous sound, much the same as fingernails on a chalkboard is unmistakable.

tinyman392 said:
Mine didn’t get smooth until about 12k, but I also didn’t swap out any fluids or anything. Haven’t had any issues since 12k either (no grinds or pop outs).

I should have elaborated more and did so in this post

You only get a pop out when you've destroyed a gear, requiring a gear replacement to fix.

If a user is having the shifter pop out of gear, they've critically damaged whatever gear it's popping out of. This is indicative of a money shift and will likely not be covered under warranty, requiring $1500+ to fix.
- I've only heard of two CTR owners who've destroyed a gear, both due to money shifts, and Honda refused warranty service, requiring out of pocket repairs to buy the gears they destroyed and have them replaced.

Arcam said:
The oil weight should be 0w20 not 0w30, well it is in Europe, maybe different spec on US cars.

Oil weight depends on the usage of the vehicle. 0W20 provides better fuel economy, but should not be used on a track due to running hotter, which is why 0W30 would be recommended for cars before being tracked.

The Infamous 2nd Gear Crunch

CTR1633FK2

Senior Member

ExVTEC

Senior Member

foyevtsov

Member

SHIFTT_IX_MR

Senior Member

Lust

Senior Member

02SilverSiHB

Senior Member

Gansan

Senior Member

hpbyhermann

Senior Member

Lust

Senior Member

Maximum6

Senior Member

Lust

Senior Member

Maximum6

Senior Member

Lust

Senior Member

jsyar

Member

JW0914

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