Blown amp?

inc0gnito said:

Currently only hearing sound through driver side speakers/tweeter. Each time I turn off the car there's a loud pop coming from said speakers. Would a blown amp still have sound coming out of one speaker?

Recently tapped the front driver/passenger speakers to an lc2i -> jl xd600 -> jl 8w3(replaces stock subwoofer). Everything was running ok until I reconnected the original line to the jl 8w3. A lot of static plus popping noises from all speakers, disconnected the line, now only sound coming from the driver side (the jl 8w also gets sound but I'm keeping it powered off for now).

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SCOPESYS said:

Here is the GOOD News.

The Amp I/C that is used in the Honda CivicX cars is virtually FAIL SAFE.
It has over-temperature and Output SHORT CIRCUIT "Protection", and will shut down that amp channels if it detect a fault.
The POP you heard is probably the amp trying to power the speaker and then immediately shutting down, as it detects the short.
Remove the short ( speaker load is nominal 4 Ohms, but amp will power down to 2 ohms without considering 2 ohms to low and a short)

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• Tapped the front left and right speakers to LC2i > JL xd600 > JL 8w3v3 subwoofer.
• Everything was working until I reconnected the oem sub line to the JL as well (loud constant static occurred at this time).
• Unplugged the oem sub line, tested system, now only the front left/right speakers work.
• Unplugged/disconnected all the wires pertaining to new system and defaulted back to factory setup but still experiencing issues. (sound only comes from front left/right).
• So the front left/right speakers pop each time car is turned on/off, even if audio is turned off before starting/turning car off. Also, amplifier remains extremely hot and drains the battery when car is off.
• Removed all factory speakers and tested with front left. They all seem to work (still popping noise), but no sound from any of the rears.

shoegazer said:

I can generally follow this. But I'm way confused.

If it were me; I'd have to just start again with factory equipment and wiring. Get it back working as per Honda. Then go one step at a time from there.

I think that you sent two power sources to one speaker (sub) and that changes everything (and may have damaged the factory amp).

If you want polite suggestions; consider just using the factory sub's output wires to supply the LC2i (make sure to match the resistance to not damage the oem amp). Amplify that signal with your aftermarket amp and connect to your sub.

Alternately, with your current setup, replace your (likely) damaged factory amp, leave the factory sub output wire disconnected, and turn off or lower the factory sub's output to zero in the head unit.

Personally... I'd disconnect the power source to your new equipment and to your factory amp for now. It sounds like the one that is getting hot is not connected properly.

Good luck. And please let us know how the story ends.

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inc0gnito said:

It works again!!! New oem amp came today. Only had a chance to do a quick test. Once everything was plugged in, I was able to get clear sound from both front and rear. Only thing left is finding time to remove old amp and mounting new one.

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Royalz_2o9 said:

do you happen to have a link to the amp? i have a touring and my stock amp is sending clipped signal to my LC2i right channel.

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inc0gnito said:

https://www.hondapartsnow.com/genuine/honda~0~39186-tgg-a02.html

That's for the Sport Touring Hatchback. According to your profile, yours is a Touring Sedan 2017? If so, you'll want this one:

https://parts.legendshonda.com/oem-parts/honda-amplifier-assembly-audio-premium-39186tbaa01

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