Honda CR-V AWD 1.5T RW2 EUDM

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Hello all,

This may be a civicx forum but I am pretty sure you know that not many people are interested in tuning the CRV! I have read and learned a lot here and I find it only fair to share whichever information and tune I do on my car. Besides, someone may find it interesting even on this forum!

My car has a manual transmission. The gearing is almost identical to the Si, slightly shorter with the exception of the final gear ratio, which is 4.7, while the civic has 4.1. In case someone is interested in tuning the civic over 350hp and wheel spin will become a major issue, having a longer final gear may come in handy.

Exterior-wise, I installed the Honda Access front splitter, side panels and rear bumper spoiler, all factory painted NH883-P Platinum White pearl. Performance-wise, I have installed custom mufflers. I have seen people completely removing the backboxes, but the sound isnt ideal and the growling disappears. That is why I chose to go for smaller than stock mufflers and increase the exhaust tips diameter. Stock exhaust outer diameter is 54mm and then spits to two 48mm pipes leading to the mufflers.

I will be installing a PRL SRI street MAF, since after a lot of part number cross-referencing, google searching and information shared with another person who went for the CAI, I came to the conclusion that the V shares the civic Si MAF housing. I know that the CAI is the proper way to go performance-wise, but it is not a bolt-on installation. Neither is the SRI, but I will need to built myself only a small custom bracket for the MAF housing.

Neither Hondata or Ktuner have jailbroken any manual ECUs yet. I have emailed them both and K-tuner seemed to be way more friendly and helpful. I will connect my ECU to a Ktuner device, harvest all sorts of DATA that is useful to Ktuner and send it to them. Most gains obviously come from the ECU tuning, so after I am done with the intake, I will move forward with this. Even after the car is flashed, I will retain the street MAF since I want the dual ECON function.

As far as ICs are concerned, noone has designed a bolt-on intercooler for the CRV. The actual intercooler has the same size as the civic's but the CRV requires longer tubes and the civic IC has narrower fitting points. I will attempt installing a PRL IC probably but the fitting will be very difficult. Maybe either them or Mishimoto will take a look at the CRV, since there are literally hundreds of thousands of units already sold and the car became available to the EU market only a few months back. I am pretty sure many other people will become interested in tuning this platform as well, as there is huge potential. All EUDM models run on 95RON minimum. I run it on Shell V-power 97RON. I use Mobil 1 0w-30 full synthetic oil and I do a full oil/filter change every 5000km. No oil dilution here. I do not warm up the car more than 1 minute (as I did with my EP3 and FN2 Type-Rs) and drive slowly before parking the car. Rev-hang is present on the V as well and is quite annoying to be honest.

Thanks to this great community, I d be happy to help any way I can!

Honda Civic 10th gen Honda CR-V AWD 1.5T RW2 EUDM crv exhaust1


Honda Civic 10th gen Honda CR-V AWD 1.5T RW2 EUDM crv exhaust2


Honda Civic 10th gen Honda CR-V AWD 1.5T RW2 EUDM crv exhaust3


Honda Civic 10th gen Honda CR-V AWD 1.5T RW2 EUDM crv exhaust4


Honda Civic 10th gen Honda CR-V AWD 1.5T RW2 EUDM crv exhaust5


Honda Civic 10th gen Honda CR-V AWD 1.5T RW2 EUDM crv exhaust6


Honda Civic 10th gen Honda CR-V AWD 1.5T RW2 EUDM CRV RW2 intake box
 
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So tuning the V moves forward! I went for the PRL SRI, since the installation was much easier in comparison to the Cobra, as neither is bolt-on for the CR-V. The most important part though, is that the CRV has the same MAF sensor part number as the Si. After cross-referencing various part numbers, I realized that the CR-V shares the same engine as the Si. I just need to figure out if my EUDM manual gearbox is the same so I can install a clutch/SMF combo that is destined for the Si.

I did a lot of reading here and decided to go for the PRL because everyone was certain that their MAF housing is most accurate one when compared to stock. I considered the 27WON one but wasn't sure if it would fit my car. The CRV DOES NOT have a resonator like the Civic, its the airbox only.

Removing it was an easy process and the only difficulty was in removing it from the rubber mount on its right side. The PRL Short Ram Intake is amazingly easy to install, doesn't take more than 5 minutes. My only issue was that the bracket included did not fit my car. So I went ahead and made one on my own! Also really easy to do, provided someone has the tools, which I 'd say are common in most households. After installing the intake, I got my hands on a 4mm thick inox piece of metal, which I cut to an overall length of 17,5mm about 0,7 inches). Then I bent the metal piece to the proper angle and then bent once again for it to fit the PRL mount. I used a 10mm bolt to install on the car and the PRL bolt for the PRL mount. If you have the piece of metal, it doesn't take more than 10 minutes!

Didn't drive the car much after I installed it so even the butt-dyno hasn't seen any differences! I have an ELM327 and the torque pro app so I 'll check the STFT and LTFT and IATs although the IATs will not look great I believe. The sound is amazing B U T the CR-V has an extra resonator on top of the engine (shown in the pic above, with the earth dreams logo on it). If the turbo inlet pipe is replaced by the Si inlet pipe and the resonator is removed, the sound will be identical. Now i certainly hear the turbo spool and the BOV but the growling of the filter is drowned by the resonator.

I will wait for 27WON to release a proper turbo inlet pipe instead of installing the Si one. Actually I would but I have to source it from the USA and that takes too much time and money so I prefer to invest only once in a proper inlet pipe. PRL shipped the box to me instantly and it took only 1 week to reach me! Considering that the parcel traveled from the USA to Germany, then Italy and lastly Greece, this is really quick! Fotos below! Thanks @PRL Motorsports for their amazing product! Hope @Vincent@27WON will move quickly with the inlet pipe! Next move is Ktuner and IF I sort out the clutch, down-pipe and the 27WON W1. I hope the rear diff and axles can handle 270-280 lb/ft of torque since I am not aiming to exceed that. Besides its a daily ride!

Honda Civic 10th gen Honda CR-V AWD 1.5T RW2 EUDM 20190508_124026


Honda Civic 10th gen Honda CR-V AWD 1.5T RW2 EUDM 20190508_123101


Honda Civic 10th gen Honda CR-V AWD 1.5T RW2 EUDM 20190508_124040
 
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This is turning into an online diary...A few more baby steps!

The weird box sitting on top of the 5th Gen CR-V 1.5T engine is the intake resonator. Since the engine is identical to the 10th gen Si, I could install the Si turbo inlet pipe. This part however is not available for the EU market and importing it would need money that were not worth spending, especially if 27WON or someone else releases an aftermarket inlet pipe.

So I went the "DIY-cheap" way and got myself 2 silicone blanking caps. One is 25mm and the other one 35mm. Also got clamps/rings to tighten them since the stock ones were sprung-type and too wide.

The "woosh" from the PRL motorsports intake is finally louder and I can hear the incoming air apart from BOV!. Not bad for $30 including shipping from the UK to Greece!

Honda Civic 10th gen Honda CR-V AWD 1.5T RW2 EUDM 20190628_172507
 
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Special day today for (plenty?!) CRV owners! Ktuner released 1.0.9.3 which includes initial support for MT CR-Vs among others!

If you log into the Ktuner page, the version history page is yet to be updated, but if you check for updates in the software, 1.0.9.3 is here!

Back in August I had my base code pulled from my ECU from a tuner that had the proper means to do so. The file was sent to Ktuner and then the waiting period started.

In the mean time, I bothered them slightly (I 'd say...!) and they always came back to me with a reply. It was only a few days back that they confirmed that my basecode will be included in the software update.

Today I run through the process after reading many topics here and going through the Ktuner help page as well as youtube videos. If its the first time you are flashing your ECU, be patient in general and open your eyes cause all the steps are right there!

With the car in accesory mode (position II on the key - mine does not jave a start stop button), I plugged the unit in. Make sure your laptop is connected to the internet, is NOT on battery saving mode and that all firewalls or antivirus programs are not blocking Ktuner. I then connected the USB cable to the laptop and launched the program. The software communicated with the ECU automatically. The unit received the upgrade from the software and it then asked to be locked to the ECU. All pretty straight forward.

After that, I went to file->New Tune-> picked my ECU number (5ST-G0x) as it was the only option, clicked next and then chose my base map. I went with 21 PSI DUAL.

Clicked next, flash directly to the ECU. The process started, all sorts of errors went on and then the new code was uploaded.

Turned the key off, waited for 5 seconds, turned back on to position II, clicked ok and there it is!

I drove for 40 meters tops for all errors/CEL to go away.

Connected the v1.2 to the tunerview lite app on the HU following the instructions on the Ktuner help page and all worked like a charm.

K.control started off at 0.8 but fell to 0.6 after 10 miles. The ECU needs to learn a few things from the beginning, so I ll need to do a few more miles. I am using Shell 98RON.

Car already feels amazing especially after 3500rpm. It should be like that from the factory, no question.

After installing a catted downpipe, havent decided which yet(PRL, RV-6 or 27WON), I ll have a proper custom tune and see how taller I stand from the 173hp Honda claims my stock engine had.

The support and the work @KTuner is doing is beyond words. Who ever hasnt pulled the trigger on a v1.2 or v2, should do it NOW! Seriously, there is NO reason to look elsewhere and main reason is their support, not only their excellent hardware and software!

I havent checked if error codes disabling is possible on initial support, but I am fairly certain it is. After checking that, I ll go for the downpipe after disabling the O2 sensor error code (even catted downpipes get it on many occations) and wont bust Ktuners balls for an upgrade after initial support, as advanced settings are not there yet. Will go for a custom tune.

Those VW Tiguans, Audi Q5 TFSIs, Nissan Juke Nismos and various midsized european sedans are in for a freaking treat...!
 
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For European owners, coming across an updated online Honda parts catalog is not an easy task.

https://www.parts-honda.uk/honda-cars/

This website has updated catalogs for european Honda models. Going through it I came across a very very sad realization. While the USDM 2017-2019 CR-V has the same pistons and connecting rods as the Si, the 2019 onwards EUDM CR-V ( and I would assume the USDM 2020 CR-V) has the same pistons BUT the connecting rods are those of the non-Si. Honda decided to cut costs obviously and "overbuilding" the 5th Gen european CR-V as well as probably the 2020 CR-V was not deemed mandatory. The flywheel on manual models is also that of the non-Si.

This certainly is bad news for those who wanted to do more aggressive stuff to the stock L15BY engine.
 


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Why that? Both Si and your CR-V do have a dual mass flywheel, so you can buy more strengthened versions. The normal 1.5T also have a DMF setup.
What comes in my mind is the question, where the difference between the clutch package of the Si and normal 1.5T is and which version your CR-V has.
 
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Why that? Both Si and your CR-V do have a dual mass flywheel, so you can buy more strengthened versions. The normal 1.5T also have a DMF setup.
What comes in my mind is the question, where the difference between the clutch package of the Si and normal 1.5T is and which version your CR-V has.
I have the same question: what are the differences between non-Si and Si DMF? All I know is that the part numbers differ. This means there must be some difference between the two.

I can definately install an aftermarket clutch which is destined for the non-Si.

Worst part is that Honda decided to replace the Si connecting rods that were used in the CRV engine to those of the non-Si.
 

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I think the Si DMF must be lighter strengthened version to handle the abuse from the numb american driver, who want's to shift like in Fast and Furious.
Jokes aside, it is in my opionen the only reason for the different parts numbers. Not a single company world wide would use different part numbers on the same product.
From a technical standpoint the Si do have a slightly higher horsepower and torque number (a standard clutch package has a safety factor about 1,4 the times of the maximum power of the engine, so it wouldn't be a huge problem) but as the Si stands for a sporty Civic and people worldwide like to abuse Civics as well as the DMF is the biggest bs for costumers (another time for explanation), it must be strengthend - designed larger - and is probably more reliable.
 
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Real question now is how much torque/HP can the non-Si civic L15 engine take, a question that I am certain has been answered in this forum, so I will start looking around. I need to find out by how much my engine can safely be upgraded, especially with the W1 turbo. 27WON plan on releasing a L15 turbo inlet pipe, so the inlet pipe, the W1 and a downpipe can all be installed together easily. Question is how much torque the non-Si rods can handle, so the car is tuned accordingly.

Plus, for me to move forward, Ktuner need to update my initial support with error disabling including all errors related to the catalytic converter as well as the active grill shutter. Again, 671.000 CR-Vs have been sold already worldwide, and no aftermarket intercooler is available that fits CRVs with the active shutter grill system. It needs to be removed and the error that pops up, disabled. If not, the car goes to limp-mode.
 

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"It needs to be removed and the error that pops up, disabled. If not, the car goes to limp-mode." How about simulating the grill? I mean, you could measure the resistance and the energy consumption of the system and replace it with a resistor that can withstand the energy consumption. It doesn't go well if the grill system has two resistance values when opened or closed.

I think the non-Si should last about 220 hp and 270nm without any failures. It all depends how long the 1.5 in your CR-V should life. There is not any problem to tune a factory 1.5 without mods to 300 hp+, only that it last about 1000km.
 


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Swapped out the stock rims yesterday for a cheap but decent (hopefully!) solution:Japan Racing JR28 in gloss black.

Dimensions are 19x8.5 ET40 5x114.3. With stock rims being 18x7.5 ET45, I find this size to be borderline wide for the CR-V. I am still going soft on the tires since they are new, but in general the car feels more willing to turn in and now the suspension feels slightly softer, as the lower tyre profile and the wider track give better steering response.

I was between summer and all season tires, but decided that I am going to be too bored to change tires so I picked up the new Bridgestone A005 weather control, 235/55-19 105 W XL, which is the OEM size for 19s. JRs weight at 11.5 kg (25 lbs). Both rim and tire are at about 17 kg, while stock ones are over 22 kg (OEM 18s and Bridgestone Dueler H/L 235/60-18 101H). With the starter 21 DUAL Ktuner the car tops out at 143mph, so the stock H speed index was far too low.

Now, there is plenty of space for a BBK. So far, I 've seen only D2 racing offering a dust sealed bolt-on kit (meaning, that the "difficult" parts, brackets and brake lines are included. Their part number is HO354-F33011 for the 6 pot 330x32 fixed discs). The FK8 Brembos would be the best solution, but brackets for the calipers need to be fabricated, while I have no idea if the stock brake lines would fit. Also, 350x32 5x114.3 discs would need to be sourced.

The stock CR-V calipers are 2 pot, meaning they have 2 pistons instead of one. These calipers would be a good cheap upgrade for a civic, since the discs are also larger.

There is still no love for the CR-V from tuners, so no bolt-on solutions exist for brakes either, apart from D2 and BC for a coilover suspension kit (for those interested, it is the A-124-BR-RN). For those interested in spending A LOT of money, MUGEN have released an exhaust both for the 2WD and AWD 5th gen CR-V.


Honda Civic 10th gen Honda CR-V AWD 1.5T RW2 EUDM 20191227_111920


Honda Civic 10th gen Honda CR-V AWD 1.5T RW2 EUDM 20191227_111842


Honda Civic 10th gen Honda CR-V AWD 1.5T RW2 EUDM 20191227_095312
 
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Monitoring the engine when tuned is always a good idea. Another proof is that two days ago, I saw my fuel trims going way offfrom what Im used to.

I havebeen running the PRL Short Ram Intake with theSi street MAF for more than 12000 miles. 2000 with the Ktuner 21DUAL base maps, no quick adjustments.

Everything was fine until I saw my LTFT going to -7 and the STFT down to -18. I did not let it throw a code so reverted to the stock intake immediately. After the stock intake installation, LTFT went to -3 up to 0 and STFT is usually -3 to -5, occationally -12 for a brief second, so much better overall.

I do not know why all of the sudden trims went worse but in any case Ktuner and PRL responded to my emails immediately. The customer service of those two is more than exceptional and I have to say that you definately cant go wrong with choosing them.

Turns out the CRV has ALMOST same MAF tuning as the Si, but not quite. Thats why as soon as I reverted to stock, trims got better. A custom tune is definately necessary at this point when running the PRL Si street MAF. PRL said they will reach out to Ktuner to see if custom maps for their housing are possible.

Stock intake is definately a step backwards. Despite the SRI, when the car is mobile, both IAT and IAT2 are LOWER than running the stock intake. The CRV engine bay is largerthan that of the civic and under the filter there is plenty of space after removing the air box. When stationary, it does heatsoak but when on the move, it performs better than stock.

On the other hand, the stock intake in which I have a drop-in K&N filter has more stady IATs and there is less turbo lag in comparison to the SRI, but the car sounds...stock which obviously sucks.

I placed an order for the AEM 21857C which has a heatshield and will test it to see how fuel trims behave with that one. It wont arrive until late February so until then,stock intake it is.
 

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Monitoring the engine when tuned is always a good idea. Another proof is that two days ago, I saw my fuel trims going way offfrom what Im used to.

I havebeen running the PRL Short Ram Intake with theSi street MAF for more than 12000 miles. 2000 with the Ktuner 21DUAL base maps, no quick adjustments.

Everything was fine until I saw my LTFT going to -7 and the STFT down to -18. I did not let it throw a code so reverted to the stock intake immediately. After the stock intake installation, LTFT went to -3 up to 0 and STFT is usually -3 to -5, occationally -12 for a brief second, so much better overall.

I do not know why all of the sudden trims went worse but in any case Ktuner and PRL responded to my emails immediately. The customer service of those two is more than exceptional and I have to say that you definately cant go wrong with choosing them.

Turns out the CRV has ALMOST same MAF tuning as the Si, but not quite. Thats why as soon as I reverted to stock, trims got better. A custom tune is definately necessary at this point when running the PRL Si street MAF. PRL said they will reach out to Ktuner to see if custom maps for their housing are possible.

Stock intake is definately a step backwards. Despite the SRI, when the car is mobile, both IAT and IAT2 are LOWER than running the stock intake. The CRV engine bay is largerthan that of the civic and under the filter there is plenty of space after removing the air box. When stationary, it does heatsoak but when on the move, it performs better than stock.

On the other hand, the stock intake in which I have a drop-in K&N filter has more stady IATs and there is less turbo lag in comparison to the SRI, but the car sounds...stock which obviously sucks.

I placed an order for the AEM 21857C which has a heatshield and will test it to see how fuel trims behave with that one. It wont arrive until late February so until then,stock intake it is.
I have canadian lx model crv and tuned on ktuner dual as well but only hitting max 16psi while monitoring with tunerview. Do you have any ideas why this might be? I'm running 94 octane gas with stock airbox n kn drop in filter.
 
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I have canadian lx model crv and tuned on ktuner dual as well but only hitting max 16psi while monitoring with tunerview. Do you have any ideas why this might be? I'm running 94 octane gas with stock airbox n kn drop in filter.

Hey there! Based on what I ve read here, not hitting max boost could be a result of various parameters.

Which DUAL are you running? The 18 or the 21?
Also, high altitude or increased humidity may affect max boost. When you monitor, you datalog or do you just see the tunerview info live? Max boost is not achieved at max RPM, so do a datalog to see how boost is behaving throughout the RPM range.

Lastly, a boost leak could cause this. If you notice, the stock intake rubber hose has these small insert mounts that fit like a puzzle. Make sure the rubber hose is fitted properly on both airbox and turbo inlet pipe. If you havent done any work on the car that could loosen up things, check the drop in filter. Before reinstalling it 2 days ago, I washed it. When I placed it back in, I realised that it looks like it could be installed either the 3 holes being on the left side or the right side. However, correct installation is the 3 holes being on the left side(inlet pipe).

Make sure its installed properly with all 4 screws bolted, without overtighting them.


I am wondering if my trims went off because of the ambient temperature. Last 2 weeks have been really cold in comparison to what we are used to. The ECU had seen ambient temps of 5 to 40 degrees Celcius, 5 to 20 with the Ktuner. These past 2 weeks,ambient temps are from -3 to 8 max. A lot of cold air going into the engine, so the ECU needed to adjust by a bigger margin than usual. Who knows.
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