Upgraded the stereo in the R

alvav

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Very nice setup! I went with a similar path as I did a Jl Audio 8w3 sub, Audison SR5 amp, Audison Bitone, and Audison Voce's 6.5 running active as well with dynamat extreme. I absolutely love the way it sounds. I am sure yours is very similar!
I’m in the process of finishing my system. Focal speakers front and back, Addison 5 ch amp, bitone, Morel sub. My question is regarding the centre speaker. I’d like to delete it but the factory sounds/speech are routed there. Can the bitone blend the centre channel signal into the front speaker signal? It seems logical tome but am interested to see what route you took.
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okaida

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I’m in the process of finishing my system. Focal speakers front and back, Addison 5 ch amp, bitone, Morel sub. My question is regarding the centre speaker. I’d like to delete it but the factory sounds/speech are routed there. Can the bitone blend the centre channel signal into the front speaker signal? It seems logical tome but am interested to see what route you took.
I wanted to get rid of the center speaker but we discovered that the headunit pushes all your bluetooth/carplay/android auto sounds through that speaker. We weren't able to eliminate the center speaker and still take phone calls. I ended up just leaving it as is. I wouldn't waste a channel from the bitone to the center speaker.
 

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I want to add a 4 channel amp with DSP for the front/rear doors. Does anybody know how to bypass the oem amp? Specifically, do you splice before or after amp? Does it even matter since DSP should auto correct? Anybody know what wires to tap into? And I keep hearing about shops installing a resistor(s) to make this work. No idea what that's about...
 

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I have a super budget version of that setup- Nothing nearly as extravagant. It’s nice to see yours pushed to a higher level; bet it sounds great!

My setup:
-Focal 165AS front components
-Fix86 DSP
-Focal FD 4.350 amplifier setup 3 channel: 58x2 + 200 (bridge)
-JL 8W3v3sub
Stock center and rear speakers.

Honda Civic 10th gen Upgraded the stereo in the R 7647AF69-7363-4E78-93CF-7A0436F732FD


Honda Civic 10th gen Upgraded the stereo in the R 0CB12EFF-4B1E-4154-B668-8D66429D8F83
 
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Bru87tr

I have a very cheap upgrade to my stock HU. The local shops around here wanted 1-2k to install my cheap upgrades.

I nevet did it before, did some research and watched a lot of youtube videos. Did it all myself, but I do want to change the location of my equipment now and shouldnt be a big deal.
 

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I’m in the process of finishing my system. Focal speakers front and back, Addison 5 ch amp, bitone, Morel sub. My question is regarding the centre speaker. I’d like to delete it but the factory sounds/speech are routed there. Can the bitone blend the centre channel signal into the front speaker signal? It seems logical tome but am interested to see what route you took.
I believe the installer disconnected the center speaker and the sound is blended as my Bluetooth still works.
 

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I want to add a 4 channel amp with DSP for the front/rear doors. Does anybody know how to bypass the oem amp? Specifically, do you splice before or after amp? Does it even matter since DSP should auto correct? Anybody know what wires to tap into? And I keep hearing about shops installing a resistor(s) to make this work. No idea what that's about...
The Civic system will turn on the JL Fix86 when sound comes over the audio system. That will turn on the amp. So if you run that DSP, for sure no resistors required.

As for the signal, the factory amplifier is just above the passenger right foot- kick panel location. You would cut post factory amplified signal at the speaker output wires and send to the DSP, and then send post corrected and amplified signal back to the speaker side of that cut. Pretty easy stuff. The JL unit runs a test tone at a requested volume and presets everything. Not too tough once you do one.
 

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civic install is super easy !!

I did every in one weekend its pretty much all plug and play :) heck i even cut off the oem connectors off the stock tweeters then soldered them onto the wire of ht new tweeters to make those plug n play too.

follow this thread.

I did:
JL tweeters
JL center speaker
JL door speakers
JL w3 8 inch sub (with a riise on the stock box to give it the bit more of volume it needed)
JL xd600 amp
l2ci line converter
Added sound deadening in trunk, inner door panels, foam baffles for door speakers

I banged this all out in 6-7 hours all because of the tutorials in the thread below :)


https://www.civicx.com/threads/full...s-amp-center-channel-and-door-speakers.27310/
 

Noize

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civic install is super easy !!

I did every in one weekend its pretty much all plug and play :) heck i even cut off the oem connectors off the stock tweeters then soldered them onto the wire of ht new tweeters to make those plug n play too.

follow this thread.

I did:
JL tweeters
JL center speaker
JL door speakers
JL w3 8 inch sub (with a riise on the stock box to give it the bit more of volume it needed)
JL xd600 amp
l2ci line converter
Added sound deadening in trunk, inner door panels, foam baffles for door speakers

I banged this all out in 6-7 hours all because of the tutorials in the thread below :)


https://www.civicx.com/threads/full...s-amp-center-channel-and-door-speakers.27310/
The DSP and amplifier for the front stage is where the extra work comes in: Putting aftermarket door components on an additional amplifier and the 8 dual wire runs is + 32 connections beyond what is required for the install listed above. The difference in sound is substantial vs. the JL speaker on stock amp path, though.
 


Frackz

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agreed it would take time if your talking about running everything off a amp.

One thing i did notice when taking out all these panels is we have alot of room to work with. I personally think it would be super easy to run a single line to a LC7I and then run the channels back to the speakers but thats just me.

Like the civic just disassembles so easy peasy :)
 

Noize

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agreed it would take time if your talking about running everything off a amp.

One thing i did notice when taking out all these panels is we have alot of room to work with. I personally think it would be super easy to run a single line to a LC7I and then run the channels back to the speakers but thats just me.

Like the civic just disassembles so easy peasy :)
An LC7i just doesn’t have the clarity and equalization power of some of the higher end DSPs.

Independent wire runs are definitely worth the effort. With some of the tonal variations in songs, retaining independent sub, fader, and balance control off the deck is huge. Some people running an external sub knob off their amp, but I don’t want that at all.

It functions like stock, but sounds great. I just wish everything wasn’t integrated. Being able to rip that POS factory HU out and have independent HVAC control would be a dream. This laggy HU and distant HVAC controls is far and away the only thing about my CTR that I despise.
 

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The Civic system will turn on the JL Fix86 when sound comes over the audio system. That will turn on the amp. So if you run that DSP, for sure no resistors required.

As for the signal, the factory amplifier is just above the passenger right foot- kick panel location. You would cut post factory amplified signal at the speaker output wires and send to the DSP, and then send post corrected and amplified signal back to the speaker side of that cut. Pretty easy stuff. The JL unit runs a test tone at a requested volume and presets everything. Not too tough once you do one.
Is the factory speaker wire thick enough gauge to handle a aftermarket amplified signal? I plan to add a Audiocontrol D-6 1200amp all in one 6 channel AMP/LOC/DSP unit to power Front Mids/Front Tweeters/Rear Mids and Sub signal to JL xd600v2 to power my Subwoofer. I thought about running new speaker wires from the Audiocontrol Amp to the door speakers but if the factory wires can handle it, I can send the signal back near the passenger kick panel than trying to route new cable through the door to save some headaches. What is your take on factory wiring?
 

Frackz

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Is the factory speaker wire thick enough gauge to handle a aftermarket amplified signal? I plan to add a Audiocontrol D-6 1200amp all in one 6 channel AMP/LOC/DSP unit to power Front Mids/Front Tweeters/Rear Mids and Sub signal to JL xd600v2 to power my Subwoofer. I thought about running new speaker wires from the Audiocontrol Amp to the door speakers but if the factory wires can handle it, I can send the signal back near the passenger kick panel than trying to route new cable through the door to save some headaches. What is your take on factory wiring?
you would tap into one of those speakers to get the signal to the audio control unit so nothing special there. the wires you run from amp over go directly to your new speakers not factory wiring.


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breakingakajav

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The sub has been upgraded by many members and it's one of the easiest ways to improve the system. You do not need a dsp for the sub.
For those looking for an economical upgrade, he's what I would suggest:
- upgrade the factory 8" sub and use the factory enclosure
- upgrade the door woofers, factory tweeters are pretty good
- add 4 channel amp, bridge 2 ch to sub and 1 each to woofers

So from my very limited knowledge on speakers and it’s wiring requirements. The amp gets the power from its own power routed to the battery. How does the amp get signal from the head unit? Do I have to run/splice into the factory head unit?

Any links/tutorials would be greatly appreciated.

Will be trying to find some videos/articles meanwhile.
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