Not making boost

nickjohn35

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So I was installing a Gentex autodim mirror on Tuesday and after having every hooked up, I went to start my car and engine wouldn't turn over. Couldn't figure out for the life of me why it wouldn't start. Ended up having it towed on Wednesday to the dealership. They called yesterday and said they found a blown B12 fuse (of course, one of the ones I didn't check) and was able to get it started but it has no boost. Received a phone call from the service manager this morning stating my car still has no boost and then he starts questioning me about my intercooler and oil catch can. Both of which have been on there for 4 months with 0 issues. After I told him that he then threatened me with the whole "your warranty won't cover any repairs for the engine now".

Surely this is electrical?
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So I was installing a Gentex autodim mirror on Tuesday and after having every hooked up, I went to start my car and engine wouldn't turn over. Couldn't figure out for the life of me why it wouldn't start. Ended up having it towed on Wednesday to the dealership. They called yesterday and said they found a blown B12 fuse (of course, one of the ones I didn't check) and was able to get it started but it has no boost. Received a phone call from the service manager this morning stating my car still has no boost and then he starts questioning me about my intercooler and oil catch can. Both of which have been on there for 4 months with 0 issues. After I told him that he then threatened me with the whole "your warranty won't cover any repairs for the engine now".

Surely this is electrical?
Possibly... the leak detector would eliminate a leak issue. What does B12 protect? If it has anything to do with the electronic wastegate... it is possible damage could have occurred prior to the fuse going (kind of unlikely too though). I'm assume the wastegate is something of a servomotor instead of a solenoid so it isn't all-or-nothing. Other than the ECU not providing a proper signal (not likely IMO) the only other electronic issue I can think of would be wastegate related... making it be wide open.

Based on the design, you'd expect it'd fail open on a loss of signal. Otherwise, it'd stay shut and you'd run excessive boost. You don't want signal failures to break things. I am, however, guessing. This is my first car with an electronic wastegate.
 

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So I was installing a Gentex autodim mirror on Tuesday and after having every hooked up, I went to start my car and engine wouldn't turn over. Couldn't figure out for the life of me why it wouldn't start. Ended up having it towed on Wednesday to the dealership. They called yesterday and said they found a blown B12 fuse (of course, one of the ones I didn't check) and was able to get it started but it has no boost. Received a phone call from the service manager this morning stating my car still has no boost and then he starts questioning me about my intercooler and oil catch can. Both of which have been on there for 4 months with 0 issues. After I told him that he then threatened me with the whole "your warranty won't cover any repairs for the engine now".

Surely this is electrical?
What did this Gentex mirror installation involve?
 

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hmmm....why would they check on the boost in that scenario? They replaced the fuse and got the car started up, that would have been a closed case for them. Did you ask them to do a thorough check or requested them to test driving it??


So I was installing a Gentex autodim mirror on Tuesday and after having every hooked up, I went to start my car and engine wouldn't turn over. Couldn't figure out for the life of me why it wouldn't start. Ended up having it towed on Wednesday to the dealership. They called yesterday and said they found a blown B12 fuse (of course, one of the ones I didn't check) and was able to get it started but it has no boost. Received a phone call from the service manager this morning stating my car still has no boost and then he starts questioning me about my intercooler and oil catch can. Both of which have been on there for 4 months with 0 issues. After I told him that he then threatened me with the whole "your warranty won't cover any repairs for the engine now".

Surely this is electrical?
 

nickjohn35

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What did this Gentex mirror installation involve?
Honda autodim wire harness connected to a Gentex pigtail. I’ve seen this done in a Type R. The Honda wire harness plugs into a accessory outlet in the fuse box under the dash. Unfortunately after my car wouldn’t start I checked the fuse in the Honda wire harness and found that it had blown due to faulty wiring in the Gentex pigtail.
 


02SilverSiHB

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i had to do my downpipe and turbo blanket my luck when i install the last bolt it pinch the hose and now i making boost tommrow ill be on the dyno im sure ill be at 350 or so
oh dang, lol. I'll keep that in mind when/if I ever install one myself
 

nickjohn35

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hmmm....why would they check on the boost in that scenario? They replaced the fuse and got the car started up, that would have been a closed case for them. Did you ask them to do a thorough check or requested them to test driving it??
I’m guessing they drove it? I forgot to mention that before I had it towed the dash gave me a “rev match system problem” message. I also connected a code reader it and gave me two codes: “P0102 Mass or Air Flow Sensor A Circuit Low” and “P0560 system voltage”.
 
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I’m guessing they drove it? I forgot to mention that before I had it towed the dash gave me a “rev match system problem” message. I also connected a code reader it and gave me two codes: “P0102 Mass or Air Flow Sensor A Circuit Low” and “P0560 system voltage”.
did u tell them that what year is ur car thay have a service bulletin on the engine harness but they would have to prove and give u facts that the inter cooler is the reason why u dont have boost but i would have them reset the car and test drive it
 

nickjohn35

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did u tell them that what year is ur car thay have a service bulletin on the engine harness but they would have to prove and give u facts that the inter cooler is the reason why u dont have boost but i would have them reset the car and test drive it
Oh they know the year. They already replaced the engine harness last year and barely a month after they replaced the engine harness I lost boost. Took it in and it needed a oil rocker control valve replaced. When they texted me this evening to let me know they were still reviewing my car and they would contact me Monday, I immediately called them and told them about the oil rocker control valve replacement they did last year and the girl working my case said she would tell the tech before he left. I won’t find nothing out until Monday. I am beyond fed up with this dealership, especially after the way the service manager talked down to me and acted like he was an interrogator.
 


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so i made my own boost leak tester and it works like a charm found the leak and it was a simple vacuum hose i guess when i took the turbo inlet pipe off and reinstalled it i pinched the hose and i replaced it and wow night and day difference

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Which line is this? I’m having the same issue after doing a DP install. Thank you!
 

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i had to do my downpipe and turbo blanket my luck when i install the last bolt it pinch the hose and now i making boost tommrow ill be on the dyno im sure ill be at 350 or so
How difficult was it to replace the vacuum hose, I may have done the same thing
 

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I'd love to make a homemade boost leak test kit. How does one construct such a thing?
 

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I'd love to make a homemade boost leak test kit. How does one construct such a thing?
Just a blank that will fit in your duct and a fitting to hook an air line into. For bonus points, have a gauge on it so you can quantify the pressure.

Here's one I got some years back.

https://www.z1motorsports.com/z1-products/z1-motorsports/boost-leak-tester-p-1867.html

Not sure it'd fit the duct size we have. You'd pop off the stock airbox and plug it in to the duct. Pressurize. See if it holds pressure. 5 psi is enough.

If I was going to make one... probably a PVC cap flipped backwards and and some standard pnematic fitting/schrader valve run into it through a hole drilled through.

You've got to have a compressor with a tank really. You need to let the tank be pressurized then hook up... as preferably you listen for the leaks. You can soap bubble test too. If you have a little 12v pump... it'll be loud and won't be able to pressurize the ducting if there's any sort of leak.
 

davemarco

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Just a blank that will fit in your duct and a fitting to hook an air line into. For bonus points, have a gauge on it so you can quantify the pressure.

Here's one I got some years back.

https://www.z1motorsports.com/z1-products/z1-motorsports/boost-leak-tester-p-1867.html

Not sure it'd fit the duct size we have. You'd pop off the stock airbox and plug it in to the duct. Pressurize. See if it holds pressure. 5 psi is enough.

If I was going to make one... probably a PVC cap flipped backwards and and some standard pnematic fitting/schrader valve run into it through a hole drilled through.

You've got to have a compressor with a tank really. You need to let the tank be pressurized then hook up... as preferably you listen for the leaks. You can soap bubble test too. If you have a little 12v pump... it'll be loud and won't be able to pressurize the ducting if there's any sort of leak.
Thanks. I regret that I only understood some of that, but it at least helps to illustrate that it's not quite as easy as I might have thought, lol
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