CDV removal help

I followed the instructions by another member on how to remove the CDV. Purchased the hook and pick “dental” looking set as well. Managed to remove the slave master cyclinder, but was having a hell of a hard time getting the C- clip off. I am only able to move it around, but I can’t for the life of me pull it out.
For those that have removed it, what’s the best technique for taking it out?
I gave up and put it back on, but had a hard time getting the 2 12mm bolts back in. I put back the clutch line, and the clutch rod thing and it was really tight after that getting the second 12mm back in. Is there a specific order this should be done in??

Thanks in advance

The c clip is 80% of the job. My dental pick ended up slipping 'under' the c clip and made it to where I could jimmy it out. No trick to it, just fight it, take breaks. Put a pair of jeans on your lap and pinch the part between your legs. Expect to jam the tool in your hand (mine was on assembly, after disassembly- go figure).

If all else fails, people will drill into the side of it to gain leverage on the c clip. Replacement slave cylinders are about $100. You can always buy a spare to work on it while you drive the car on the stock one.

No real trick to it... it sucks. Good luck.

Tenshi said:

The c clip is 80% of the job. My dental pick ended up slipping 'under' the c clip and made it to where I could jimmy it out. No trick to it, just fight it, take breaks. Put a pair of jeans on your lap and pinch the part between your legs. Expect to jam the tool in your hand (mine was on assembly, after disassembly- go figure).

If all else fails, people will drill into the side of it to gain leverage on the c clip. Replacement slave cylinders are about $100. You can always buy a spare to work on it while you drive the car on the stock one.

No real trick to it... it sucks. Good luck.

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Thanks bud. Might order the spare and avoid the stress the second time around. When you were putting it back in, did you first mount the 2 12mm bolts and then hook the clutch line and rod in or ?
And i did stab myself at one point lol

My shop removed mine, but I think I know the problem. If you use a pick or small screwdriver to remove the end of the clip from the channel and then use a pick to remove the center of the C clip then the end just pops back in. The same thing happens when you remove the center of the clip first and then remove one end. I have seen reports of people who use two small screwdrivers and use the first one to remove the center of the clip from the channel and then leave that screwdriver blocking the return of the center while they use a second screwdriver or pick to remove one of the ends. That way the center can't pop back into the channel when you remove an end.

BoostedDreams said:

Thanks bud. Might order the spare and avoid the stress the second time around. When you were putting it back in, did you first mount the 2 12mm bolts and then hook the clutch line and rod in or ?
And i did stab myself at one point lol

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I put the clutch line/pipe onto the slave but didn't tighten it down, then I mounted the slave, but didn't tighten it down. Then tighten both, pipe first. That is the order i took it apart in.

I ended up stripping the long pipe using the crow foot wrench (got turned around, went the wrong way) while trying to install the stainless steel clutch line. Replacement from Honda Parts now was $15. So even at my lowest low... it is pretty hard to mess up too much.

If you haven't got the stainless clutch line... you may want to look into it since it sounds like you'll be taking it apart again anyway.

Anyone know the torque specs on the SC bolts?

swanarg said:

Anyone know the torque specs on the SC bolts?

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I don’t, but I wouldn’t crank it down too much

BoostedDreams said:

I don’t, but I wouldn’t crank it down too much

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I didn’t figure it would be much. I torqued mine to 20ft/lbs, seemed similar to the amount of force I used to get it off. Should have check with my wrench during disassembly. Oh well. If anyone comes across the spec let us know.

swanarg said:

Anyone know the torque specs on the SC bolts?

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16 lb ft for the mounting bolts according to the FSM.

shadow said:

16 lb ft for the mounting bolts according to the FSM.

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Cool, I knew it couldn't be too much. Torqued them to spec this morning

I havn't done this on my Si yet, but I did it prior on my TL and it does suck. I put mine in a vice grip which helped a little and I used a pick to stab the middle and somehow worked some magic and got it out. ..But, it did go flying and THANK GOD I found it haha. After that, some needle nose to twist the cap off works well.

You should add a stainless steel clutch line while you're in there too

I had a shop do mine. Will be doing the upgraded willwood clutch master cylinder as well next week

BoostedDreams said:

I had a shop do mine. Will be doing the upgraded willwood clutch master cylinder as well next week

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How do you like it with the cdv removed?

Tzfng said:

How do you like it with the cdv removed?

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Didn’t notice a difference. Got tired of the clutch and leaky cmc and traded in for a type r that doesn’t need a clutch upgrade for bolt ons

I had trouble removing mine. I took 1 hour trying remove that dam clip i used two picks