SCOPESYS
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A3 is direct Battery power, and is present all the time, even if the car is shut down.
I would suggest using A23 (ACC) and not A3 that would put power onto the LC71 all the time, 24/7.
ACC is only on when the Radio has power to actually run.
There is nothing that needs BACKUP power in the LC71, and it only needs power when the Radio is on-- ie ACC is on.
I would also consider just using the Frame Ground for your Ground line, rather than tap into another wire going to the Radio.
Another option for the LC71 power is to use one of the Unused Fuse locations in the Passenger compartment fuse box, that is powered when ACC is on.
That way the LC71 can have its own fuse, not that it draws very much current.
SCOPESYS
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kaivorth
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Sweet found that it needs a 2A fuse. Anyway to tell what fuse location I should use that won't give power 24/7 but is an accessory one?
Love how clean this installation is going to turn out
KYBubblehead
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Since I need a remote trigger signal for a sub amp; I'm guessing that A23 would be a good one? I replaced the factory sub with a shallow mount 8" Polk Audio and I have an Alpine mono amp I'm wiring in. I have it hidden with the spare tire, so nothing shows...
jdmsleepr
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wiley-coyote
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Does anyone have the wire diagram for the premium 12 speaker amp? 19 FK7 Sport Touring
Back2Honda
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It would just need a digital coax to tosslink adapter then tosslink fiber optic to a tosslink digital input into a dsp. I have an Alpine PXE-0850s I want to connect it to. I have an Audison AV 5.1 amp that I’m going to install and will connect the PXE-0850s via low level rca cable to albiet a very short run to the amp and don’t see having any engine noise getting into the system with that short a run. If the digital signal bypasses the processing then I should be good. The Alpine has internal mixing which can sum the output for a full range signal to be processed through the dsp.
There are 12 connectors on the back of the headunit. This is the one that carries the music to the factory amp. To date, no one has tried connecting that SPDIF connector to an aftermarket DSP to see if it's usable or not.
Everyone is just tapping into the amplified signals coming out of the factory amp instead. They're crossed over, so if you want different crossover points, you'll need a summing DSP. There's a factory EQ curve applied, so if you want to get rid of that, you'll need a DSP that does un-EQ. The subwoofer output is flat down to 20 Hz so you don't need a DSP that does bass restoration.. If your DSP adds much delay, your Bluetooth callers will hear themselves echoing back. Some audio content is only on the center speaker.
Boosted1one
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Is this the same for a excuse my ignorance but is this the same for a 2017 Civic Si (10th gen)
joh17
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This diagram needs to be sticky'd as a quick referenceThere are like 8 connectors on the headunit. Assuming you want speaker connections, here it is for all except Touring (or any of the others with 10/12 speaker systems):
