Hondata Software Traction Control Testimonials

.grimace

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actually you are wrong you should read more why the civic type r has a different fuel /intake system vs any other honda



As noted in the Car & Driver post, fueling is different as the Accord system is designed for economy while the Type R system is designed for heavy flow in order to maximize performance. Almost every single part of the fuel system is different, from the high pressure pump, down to the fuel rail, and injectors.

:lol:
You realize the CTR and Accord are both direct injection right? Direct injection means the fuel is being sprayed into the cylinder. The older or conventional system I was talking about is how they’ve done it for 30-40 years where it gets injected into the intake manifold and mixes with air before entering the cylinder. The older way has much smaller injectors I was referring to. You really have no clue about cars holy crap. Best of luck dude, you need it.
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bobafettm

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i haven't tried 6% yet. I figured i'll try their default setting and see how it is. I do change it to 6% and uploaded the calibration but i haven't drive the car with it yet so i can't comment.
Although here in california, weather is usually not bad so as long as the tires are warm, so even without the TC i didn't spin too much, so i'm probably not the best person to comment on what % slip is best used.

The hondata traction control does work seemlessly though. Felt great to be able to floor 2nd without hearing the tires screech.
Thank you! This is excellent to hear more honest reviews such as this!
 

eshults5

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Probably a dumb question...
Would I need other mods to be compatible with these tunes? I read in the original thread that exhaust popping is a side effect and that it's unacceptable for OEM. Considering the relatively low cost of this upgrade I'm all in if it isn't too risky.
 

.grimace

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Probably a dumb question...
Would I need other mods to be compatible with these tunes? I read in the original thread that exhaust popping is a side effect and that it's unacceptable for OEM.
LOL what? You can run Hondata with traction control on the stock honda settings, you could even use their improved throttle response on a 100% stock CTR. There is no exhaust popping you might be thinking of two step to reduce lag which will cause issues. Don't do that.
 

toddrhodes

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Probably a dumb question...
Would I need other mods to be compatible with these tunes? I read in the original thread that exhaust popping is a side effect and that it's unacceptable for OEM. Considering the relatively low cost of this upgrade I'm all in if it isn't too risky.
Yea, like @.grimace said, you really need a built motor and possibly a beefier turbo to do anti-lag, either rolling or on a 2-step for launch. Hondata is pretty specific about that in the software. But for just normal tunes and/or traction control, stock is fine, and they have a ton of calibrations for not just stock, but stock and fuel octane, stock and improved throttle response, etc...
 


eshults5

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LOL what? You can run Hondata with traction control on the stock honda settings, you could even use their improved throttle response on a 100% stock CTR. There is no exhaust popping you might be thinking of two step to reduce lag which will cause issues. Don't do that.
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boosted180sx

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Probably a dumb question...
Would I need other mods to be compatible with these tunes? I read in the original thread that exhaust popping is a side effect and that it's unacceptable for OEM. Considering the relatively low cost of this upgrade I'm all in if it isn't too risky.
if you look at the chart of their traction control, it's quite easy to understand the reason why it "exhaust pops".
Honda Civic 10th gen Hondata Software Traction Control Testimonials PR46YnK


With a huge amount of slip (overslip 20%), the car will try to reduce timing by a significant amount (72 degrees :eek:) which makes your car misfire and in return, creates a situation similiar to anti lag but not quite.

a great example of how it sounds when hondatas traction control is sensing an immense amount of overslip and reducing timing alot.

there are three ways to stop this from happening (without changing to a tire with more grip)
1. increase the amount of target slip.
2. reduce the amount of ignition retard at high amounts of slip.
3. reduce torque target so you don't overslip as much.

also, there is no such thing as a dumb question. This is why forums exists to gain knowledge on a car you own.
 

02SilverSiHB

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there are three ways to stop this from happening (without changing to a tire with more grip)
1. increase the amount of target slip.
2. reduce the amount of ignition retard at high amounts of slip.
3. reduce torque target so you don't overslip as much.
Unfortunately for me, I'd be too freaked out I'd mess something up changing settings.

I blew my EP3 motor once doing that with krpo :eek: given totally different, but still...ever since then, I'm like, nope, not changing anything...just upload calibration lol
 

boosted180sx

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Unfortunately for me, I'd be too freaked out I'd mess something up changing settings.

I blew my EP3 motor once doing that with krpo :eek: given totally different, but still...ever since then, I'm like, nope, not changing anything...just upload calibration lol
the best way would be to reduce the torque target anyways because #1 and #2 both will basically induce more slip = not moving lol.

Yeah ... if you don't know what you are doing it's really best to just not touch anything. Messing with the TC chart isn't really going to do anything because it's only active during slip and all it is doing is retarding the ign timing and not advancing it during slippage.
 
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Correct. Tune your torque tables to allow a little wheel slip, then use the traction control to control that slip. For example, there is no point to have your first torque settings raised to the point where, for example, you have 20 psi of boost in first gear, and the car already wheelspins at 10 psi.
 


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Ordered my Flashpro and ECU Jailbreak through Evasive Motorsports just now! Strictly because they offer a free T-shirt and a license plate frame... Sorry @Hondata ;)

Trying to call in to schedule the jailbreak appointment but just seems to ring a bunch. **No need to schedule anymore. You just send it in with the form filled out and ECU included**

Excited to feel the car with the new traction control changes! I'll report back once everything is completed (Aiming for mid-next week).
 

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i haven't tried 6% yet. I figured i'll try their default setting and see how it is. I do change it to 6% and uploaded the calibration but i haven't drive the car with it yet so i can't comment.
Although here in california, weather is usually not bad so as long as the tires are warm, so even without the TC i didn't spin too much, so i'm probably not the best person to comment on what % slip is best used.

The hondata traction control does work seemlessly though. Felt great to be able to floor 2nd without hearing the tires screech.
I thought 6% was the default?

Anyone tried changing the minumum speed? I tried launching from a stop and seems to bog everytime until I start moving and then the magic kicks in. :yes: Not sure if that's the reason why it's bogging only from standstills.
 

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we are using dragy gps performance meter to do some "controlled" testing. @toddrhodes and i are doing some comparos and testing all these 3 tests - with and without hondata tcm on. the effect is very significant with tcm on to the tune of up to 1 second saved.

20-50 mph...here we're seeing results of 2.49-2.67s with tcm on vs. 3.3s or more with tcm off.
30-70 mph...results to come.
50-80 mph...results to come.

we're logging our dragy results here....

 
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toddrhodes

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Even just figuring out how best to properly test this thing, with the temp being now a balmy 50*, traction is at a premium and the effect of TCM on/off is immediate and substantial.

Best 20-50 I've managed is 2.6s with traction control on. Best without, so far, is 3.63s, just due to the road temp. But that it makes that big of a difference is pretty astounding. Since that 3.63s no-TCM run, I have refined the testing procedure a little so I'm going to do another run that way with TCM off.

Haven't done 30-70 yet but that's a great test including both 2nd and 3rd gear where 20-50 is basically a roll-on from 12-15 MPH starting in 2nd gear. 50-80 is mostly a 3rd-gear only test, just to describe the methodology a little further.

Someone else on the front page here referenced a 60-130 test. I haven't managed to work up the balls to do that on these cold roads, even on a highway, yet ;)

For any benchmarks where a shift is required, I am shifting fast, but not power shifting nor am I using no-lift-to-shift, to be clear.
 
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ctrmofo

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Even just figuring out how best to properly test this thing, with the temp being now a balmy 50*, traction is at a premium and the effect of TCM on/off is immediate and substantial.

Best 20-50 I've managed is 2.6s with traction control on. Best without, so far, is 3.63s, just due to the road temp. But that it makes that big of a difference is pretty astounding. Since that 3.63s no-TCM run, I have refined the testing procedure a little so I'm going to do another run that way with TCM off.

Haven't done 30-70 yet but that's a great test including both 2nd and 3rd gear where 20-50 is basically a roll-on from 12-15 MPH starting in 2nd gear. 50-80 is mostly a 3rd-gear only test, just to describe the methodology a little further.

Someone else on the front page here referenced a 60-130 test. I haven't managed to work up the balls to do that on these cold roads, even on a highway, yet ;)

For any benchmarks where a shift is required, I am shifting fast, but not power shifting nor am I using no-lift-to-shift, to be clear.
the key point here for everyone to understand is not so much the absolute end number - but the DELTA of tcm on vs. off. todd is showing 1 sec delta in same condition same test of 20-50 mph. that is HUGE improvement.

todd, i'm rethinking 50-80 test and may not even valid to test. reason being at 50+ mph not much wheel spin there unless a) bad tires, b) bad roads/temps very low, or c) raining/moist road. think we should ignore the 50-80 data point? i'll still do it but just not sure if it's valid.

don't think we need 60-130 for safety reasons and don't encourage it either. also, there wouldn't be much spin to be had for testing anyway.

i'll make sure to document the road conditions, temps, and of course my mods. please do same on your end. jeff palmer is doing same for me in atlanta. we can then document data of all 3 cars and show the delta - important data - with and without tcm on each car and do an average of 3. should be fun to observe.

summary, what's important to note is the effectiveness of drivability and performance in all conditions which is what we live with every day.
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