DIY OIL Change Reference Civic Type R

RedGiant217

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must do every time.
Not sure where that's coming from. The Maintanance intervals only have the filter replaced every other oil change. Not saying I think that's the way to go, but I'm not sure why you're saying it must be done every time.
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17CivicTypeR_Brian

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Does anyone have the part number for the fasteners handy? I lost one somehow...I do my own changes so I don't know what I did.
 

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Not sure where that's coming from. The Maintanance intervals only have the filter replaced every other oil change. Not saying I think that's the way to go, but I'm not sure why you're saying it must be done every time.
it's common sense. forget the maintenance minder and filters. no good mechanic and car guy would reuse oil filter, plain and simple. save a few $ and have dirty filter...no thanks.

also, reason is the maintenance minder only looks at oil life % via an algorithm built in for things like miles, engine temp, etc. and not even oil temp since there is NO oil temp sensor in the ctr. there is NO sensor in the filter or filter case/housing that is an input to the algorithm to tell it, "hey, your filter is dirty...time to change!"

if you work on cars long enough, you'll know good oil filtering is good for the engine so why the question actually baffles me ;-)

same with oil change intervals. i'm not going to save a few $ there either. after 1st oil change in december at 3100 miles and 15% oil life showing to mobil 1 extended performance 0w20 for the winter, i'm going by my normal internal - regardless of what the maintenance minder says. that's every 5,000 miles on the dot or 12 months whichever comes first. will be swapping to red line 5w30 next month as temps go back to 50's since 5w30 is less evaporation than 0w20 grade. (note: we wrote an article about the debate of oil catch cans and got input from honda engineers. we're conducting a controlled test with a member who will compare 0w20 vs 5w30 oil grade to show the difference of evaporation and blow by with the 2 oil grades...check back in a couple months for results).

ps - in ALL regions except US, honda owner's manual shows 0w20, 5w30, and 10w30 are all usable. the ONLY reason US shows and uses 0w20 out the box is due to epa/emissions regulation and fuel efficiency. it's been well documented by now.
 
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it's common sense. forget the maintenance minder and filters. no good mechanic and car guy would reuse oil filter, plain and simple. save a few $ and have dirty filter...no thanks.

also, reason is the maintenance minder only looks at oil life % via an algorithm built in for things like miles, engine temp, etc. and not even oil temp since there is NO oil temp sensor in the ctr. there is NO sensor in the filter or filter case/housing that is an input to the algorithm to tell it, "hey, your filter is dirty...time to change!"

if you work on cars long enough, you'll know good oil filtering is good for the engine so why the question actually baffles me ;-)

same with oil change intervals. i'm not going to save a few $ there either. after 1st oil change in december at 3100 miles and 15% oil life showing to mobil 1 extended performance 0w20 for the winter, i'm going by my normal internal - regardless of what the maintenance minder says. that's every 5,000 miles on the dot or 12 months whichever comes first. will be swapping to red line 5w30 next month as temps go back to 50's since 5w30 is less evaporation than 0w20 grade. (note: we wrote an article about the debate of oil catch cans and got input from honda engineers. we're conducting a controlled test with a member who will compare 0w20 vs 5w30 oil grade to show the difference of evaporation and blow by with the 2 oil grades...check back in a couple months for results).

ps - in ALL regions except US, honda owner's manual shows 0w20, 5w30, and 10w30 are all usable. the ONLY reason US shows and uses 0w20 out the box is due to epa/emissions regulation and fuel efficiency. it's been well documented by now.
Hey guys, did my first oil change at 5k miles and I didn't see any guide here other than the owner's manual. It's pretty straight forward but just wanted to share a couple photos I took. I also included the manual.

This won't be a comprehensive guide just a reference and what to expect to access and drain.

First of all jack your car up from one of the jacking points or how you best see fit and please use a jack stand. Not everyone has the best tools so get your CTR up in the air the safest and best way you can.

Once you get it up in the air there are 6 flat head screws and 2 philips head. Remove these and slide the tray off.
upload_2018-3-12_22-20-25.png


upload_2018-3-12_22-19-9.png

Once you remove those above you'll see the oil pan and an oil filter that I already removed along with the drain bolt. Use a 17MM socket to remove the drain bolt. You'll probably need a good oil filter remover such as the claw that's small enough to grip the OEM filter because it's extremely tight from the factory.
upload_2018-3-12_22-20-19.png


Once drained, replace the drain bolt and tighten the oil filter.
Fill the oil back to 5.7Qts. I would dump 5 quarts, run the engine then slowly check and refill.

Please see specs and detailed steps from the owner's manual below:
upload_2018-3-12_22-20-57.png

upload_2018-3-12_22-21-6.png

upload_2018-3-12_22-21-14.png

My apologies if this isn't thorough, I just wanted to put something out there to help anyone that may be having an oil change due soon!
I finally did my 1st oil change at 3800 miles after 1.75 years. It went well.
 

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How much trouble am I in if I overfill by .1 liter? After driving today, I think my oil indicator is above the orange marker.
 


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I think that a 0.1 liter difference makes no difference. I just fill to the 2nd hole in the dip stick after I drive the car 30 minutes. I had to add 0.2 liters.
How much trouble am I in if I overfill by .1 liter? After driving today, I think my oil indicator is above the orange marker.
 

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Made a video of the oil change process for those that need one:
 

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Do yourself a favor and get a set of race ramps. No need for jacks and safer for oil changes or other things you want to do under car. My car is lowered and rolls on with clearance easily. I do my oil changes and other work on the single post AC Lifts but sometimes use the race ramps for detailing work.

Also works if you have just one jack and want to get car on 4 jack stands as follow:

- Drive front end onto ramps

- Jack center point in rear and put on 2 stands.

- Jack front center point, pull out race ramps, and put on 2 stands.

Done deal...4 stands, 1 jack.

Honda Civic 10th gen DIY OIL Change Reference Civic Type R 3BD9CF3E-B7FD-418F-8794-9686F6B3998C
 

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Do yourself a favor and get a set of race ramps. No need for jacks and safer for oil changes or other things you want to do under car. My car is lowered and rolls on with clearance easily. I do my oil changes and other work on the single post AC Lifts but sometimes use the race ramps for detailing work.

Also works if you have just one jack and want to get car on 4 jack stands as follow:

- Drive front end onto ramps

- Jack center point in rear and put on 2 stands.

- Jack front center point, pull out race ramps, and put on 2 stands.

Done deal...4 stands, 1 jack.

3BD9CF3E-B7FD-418F-8794-9686F6B3998C.jpeg
Do you have a certain model that you recommend from RR? They seem to have quite a few options.

On a side note, can I move into your garage? The place looks awesome.
 


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Do you have a certain model that you recommend from RR? They seem to have quite a few options.

On a side note, can I move into your garage? The place looks awesome.
I have the 67 XT in HD form, RR-XT-2-HD

Drive up on ramp, secure car (ebrake, gear, chock), and put jacks under for extra insurance (kids and dog - never know ...).

I have the one where you can remove the ramp part.

NO more floor jack for oil changes.
 

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Made a video of the oil change process for those that need one:
Fuck this. Race ramps ftw.

By the time your done jacking the car with that piece of shit jack, that hopefully doesn’t slip off the puck, I’ve already drained the oil and filter. By the time you get to the other side I’ve already had a cold beer and am pouring in oil. By the time you unscrew the under tray I’ve driven the car off the ramps and headed back in to take a shit and browse the civicx forums ;-)

 

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Do yourself a favor and get a set of race ramps. No need for jacks and safer for oil changes or other things you want to do under car. My car is lowered and rolls on with clearance easily. I do my oil changes and other work on the single post AC Lifts but sometimes use the race ramps for detailing work.

Also works if you have just one jack and want to get car on 4 jack stands as follow:

- Drive front end onto ramps

- Jack center point in rear and put on 2 stands.

- Jack front center point, pull out race ramps, and put on 2 stands.

Done deal...4 stands, 1 jack.

3BD9CF3E-B7FD-418F-8794-9686F6B3998C.jpeg
I have the removable ramp version.
No need to jack from center point, plenty of room for oil changes.
Just place jacks under jack points after removing the ramp portion of the race ramp. My jack stands sit flush with the pinch welds.


Honda Civic 10th gen DIY OIL Change Reference Civic Type R 7192686E-7C79-4845-BB95-609225C4278A
 


 


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