Joined the KTuner world

mofoD said:

finally installed the ktuner with tsp stage 1 and wowowow Nokz was right... HOLY SHIT!!!!!

I'm fairly sure ill need a new clutch soon lol. map 3 is sicko mode. love it. been romping on it after 3500 rpm.

only tested it in map 3 today. so much fun. I mean wow it completely changes the whole car. so much goddamn fun. I def got to zip past other wankers driving like dick on the highways. the car feels more alive and in return the driver (me) feels more alive. I really love my Si now.

bless you guys on teaching me the ways. next up is amsoil synchromesh MT fluid.

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newskate9 said:

Hope this question isn't too rookie for the talent roaming these halls.

Been reading a lot on KTuner and clutches. Watched clutch job on Youtube and it scared the crap out of me. But all these posts got me to thinking which is sometimes dangerous.

About the math. Clearly there's math in these designs: torque, diameters, materials, friction on the clutch, on the tires on the road, and so on. And I'm guessing all of these "windows" of design overlap wide enough such that the normal consumer would have a driving experience that is satisfying and lasts a long time. Time is used up by aggressive driving, changing one of the variables and so on. Installing a KTuner and running MAP 3 like you're Mario Andretti (old school) would likely kill a clutch and several sets of tires in no time.

This weekend, I decided to look at the shift lights display on the dash while taking an unhurried drive. GREEN is good, RED is bad. I think this is for gas mileage. I was SHOCKED to see no green at all below 3000 rpm and no orange or red till I got above 4000 or so. WTF. It felt to me like I as pushing the car. Then I recalled the KT discussions where folks have said don't even think about pushing the car till above 3000 rpm to help your stock clutch last as long as possible.

It feels wrong to me to "drive" in the 3-4000 rpm range. Sounds like the engine is running too fast. Granted my last MT was a Sentra in 2000 and a lot has changed. And this is not a big ass V-8 that red lines at 5500 (more old school.

Questions - Do I need to get used to it? Is this car designed to live in 3+ land?

Is it actually bad to run in 2-3000 no matter what you are doing with the car? Say, running on a flat level road in 4th or higher gear?

Back to the shift lights - they don't seem to be able to serve a purpose given how fast one has to go (translating into bad gas mileage) before they light up. Am I missing something here?

Back to the math - via KTuner or other method, would it possible to monitor torque on the clutch? And drive / shift in a way to see what's going on there, when limits or danger zones are hit?

Am I overthinking this?

Click to expand...

newskate9 said:

Hope this question isn't too rookie for the talent roaming these halls.

Been reading a lot on KTuner and clutches. Watched clutch job on Youtube and it scared the crap out of me. But all these posts got me to thinking which is sometimes dangerous.

About the math. Clearly there's math in these designs: torque, diameters, materials, friction on the clutch, on the tires on the road, and so on. And I'm guessing all of these "windows" of design overlap wide enough such that the normal consumer would have a driving experience that is satisfying and lasts a long time. Time is used up by aggressive driving, changing one of the variables and so on. Installing a KTuner and running MAP 3 like you're Mario Andretti (old school) would likely kill a clutch and several sets of tires in no time.

This weekend, I decided to look at the shift lights display on the dash while taking an unhurried drive. GREEN is good, RED is bad. I think this is for gas mileage. I was SHOCKED to see no green at all below 3000 rpm and no orange or red till I got above 4000 or so. WTF. It felt to me like I as pushing the car. Then I recalled the KT discussions where folks have said don't even think about pushing the car till above 3000 rpm to help your stock clutch last as long as possible.

It feels wrong to me to "drive" in the 3-4000 rpm range. Sounds like the engine is running too fast. Granted my last MT was a Sentra in 2000 and a lot has changed. And this is not a big ass V-8 that red lines at 5500 (more old school.

Questions - Do I need to get used to it? Is this car designed to live in 3+ land?

Is it actually bad to run in 2-3000 no matter what you are doing with the car? Say, running on a flat level road in 4th or higher gear?

Back to the shift lights - they don't seem to be able to serve a purpose given how fast one has to go (translating into bad gas mileage) before they light up. Am I missing something here?

Back to the math - via KTuner or other method, would it possible to monitor torque on the clutch? And drive / shift in a way to see what's going on there, when limits or danger zones are hit?

Am I overthinking this?

Click to expand...

newskate9 said:

Hope this question isn't too rookie for the talent roaming these halls.

Been reading a lot on KTuner and clutches. Watched clutch job on Youtube and it scared the crap out of me. But all these posts got me to thinking which is sometimes dangerous.

About the math. Clearly there's math in these designs: torque, diameters, materials, friction on the clutch, on the tires on the road, and so on. And I'm guessing all of these "windows" of design overlap wide enough such that the normal consumer would have a driving experience that is satisfying and lasts a long time. Time is used up by aggressive driving, changing one of the variables and so on. Installing a KTuner and running MAP 3 like you're Mario Andretti (old school) would likely kill a clutch and several sets of tires in no time.

This weekend, I decided to look at the shift lights display on the dash while taking an unhurried drive. GREEN is good, RED is bad. I think this is for gas mileage. I was SHOCKED to see no green at all below 3000 rpm and no orange or red till I got above 4000 or so. WTF. It felt to me like I as pushing the car. Then I recalled the KT discussions where folks have said don't even think about pushing the car till above 3000 rpm to help your stock clutch last as long as possible.

It feels wrong to me to "drive" in the 3-4000 rpm range. Sounds like the engine is running too fast. Granted my last MT was a Sentra in 2000 and a lot has changed. And this is not a big ass V-8 that red lines at 5500 (more old school.

Questions - Do I need to get used to it? Is this car designed to live in 3+ land?

Is it actually bad to run in 2-3000 no matter what you are doing with the car? Say, running on a flat level road in 4th or higher gear?

Back to the shift lights - they don't seem to be able to serve a purpose given how fast one has to go (translating into bad gas mileage) before they light up. Am I missing something here?

Back to the math - via KTuner or other method, would it possible to monitor torque on the clutch? And drive / shift in a way to see what's going on there, when limits or danger zones are hit?

Am I overthinking this?

Click to expand...

aighead said:

Man, the Ktuner 23psi map is kind of crazy! Shifting down into 4th at about 60mph pulls like mad! And, granted I have the garbage stock all seasons, but I remember someone (I think @charleswrivers) getting grief about 3rd gear tire spinning and it's totally a thing, with a little dampness on the road I'm spinning through 4th too!

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turbo dragon said:

I totally new to the tuner world and just received my V2 Ktuner. I ordered it from TSP with the stage 1 tune, but did not receive an email for the stage 1 tune. Since I bought the Ktuner with the stage 1 maps, did TSP already put the maps on the V2 or do I still need to go to Ktuner and download the program, or do I need to ask for the email?

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amirza786 said:

TSP emails it to you. For me it ended up in my SPAM quarantine. Check your junk mail or SPAM folders. If you don't see it you can contact them online

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aighead said:

OK, so more help, please!

I got the email today from tsp and I think I uploaded it properly but went to use the TunerView App, just through the phone and I can't get it to connect through bluetooth. I'm sure i'm just missing a step somewhere but I don't know where. I've done the protocol thing in the app, but not sure what I'm missing. Do you have to root the head unit to use the app on the phone? I was looking to do the live map switch through the phone but no go...

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