Civic Type R After-market Wheel Guide

This thread would take forever for me to parse. Please, somebody break it down for me if possible. What are the top 3 options for 18” or 19” rims for a 2019 CTR that are more normal (not so rubber band scary thin but still performs well) and what could I sell the original rims and tires for?

Florence_NC said:

So this one I need you to explain to me. What is it about this look that you like? I see by one of your previous posts that you have 18x10.0 +39. Not sure how well that clears the fenders, but I am guessing that some clearancing was required.

For me, I have zero interest in the wheel setup you have, even if it clears the fenders. If you like the look those wheels give you, then this is America, and you can have whatever makes you giddy. If sacrificing function for the look you want is your tradeoff, then it is your car and your money. But I am going to buy the setup that gives the best performance, and that means a wheel with an offset that keeps the geometry where it is supposed to be. And judging by the responses on here, there are just as many people like me as there are like you. So demand is not really a good argument, because I/we demand something that they don't make, and we absolutely won't buy something that is not what we want. That is why I still have stock wheels.


Yeah, but you can put am 18x10.0 +55 and have the grip of wider tires AND the correct steering geometry AND don't need to hack up the fenders to get it all to clear. Just don't see the selling point on this one.


I get all of that. but big brakes are not exactly something new to CTRs. And while I realize that the bolt pattern and offset are out of the norm for wheels currently and thus can't be produced from the forgings they already have on the shelf, the CTR is not exactly a low production vehicle. There are going to be around 100,000 of them produced by the time the 10th Gen production cycle ends, and being the type of car it is and the unsavoriness of the OEM wheels, a big majority of them will have aftermarket wheels early in their life cycle. So there is more than enough of a market for CTR wheels for manufacturers to stop being lazy, actually measure a CTR, and then build proper wheels for them.



See above post.



I am not sure Rat Rods is a good example. A Model T is a terrible car to drive in stock form. Just about anything you do makes it a better road vehicle. Putting wheels on a CTR that screws up the functionality of a cutting-edge design makes the car worse, at least from an engineering standpoint. Don't see much of a parallel here.

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You’re entitled to these opinions, but from my vantage point, you’re WAY overthinking it.

I’ll address some of this stuff because I’m fighting a cold that’s giving me insomnia.

This scrub radius thing has become almost like OCD for some CTR owners.

I’m on second set of aftermarket wheels. My first ones poked too much for my liking (18x9.5+35 255/40/18), and I would get minor rear fender to tire contact (not enough to mark the tires) in the rear over expansion joints at interstate speeds in comfort mode only.

The car had very minor torque steer that I could feel on the +35s compared to stock. That was a Rays G07EX wheel designed for BMW fitment. My removal and selling of them had everything to do with performance Bridgestones that ran wide causing tire contact.

I went to Saga 18x9.5 +45 and they won’t rub the fender no matter what I do. Transferred the rubber over to the new wheels. Still very minor torque steer, and it’s a sliver of a fraction compared to any other performance focused boosted FWD car I’ve ever driven. Honda got this car right.

My point is this: The only reason people are making a huge deal about altering the scrub radius is because Honda published that the car was designed to have perfect scrub radius. If that blurb was not included in the press releases for the car, no one would ever notice aftermarket wheels inducing “tinkerbell” torque steer or commenting on it.

There are guys tracking on +40 offset 9.5” wheels with 265w rubber that will OBLITERATE the stock 20” wheels and any tire you can put on them around a racetrack. Obsessing over Tinkerbell torque steer isn’t their thing. Going fast as possible around a track is. If you really want to address something slowing us down, figure out the cooling issues on track, because they are many and not easy to fix.

I call total BS on production numbers hitting 100k. Demand is not that high for the CTR. We’re just over a quarter way there, but more than halfway through the production cycle, and they’ll idle Swindon down before they shutter it.

Aftermarket manufacturers don’t make +60 because they look goofy and sit very far in the fenders. If you like the Saga, there’s an 18x9+50 that will move the inside of the wheel less than 4mm from stock and the outside of the wheel 16mm. The performance difference of the lighter wheel/wider tire combo will more than compensate for slight change in offset. As a bonus, your CTR won’t ride like a log wagon anymore, nor will you bend a wheel if you accidentally run over a paper clip.

Noize said:

You’re entitled to these opinions, but from my vantage point, you’re WAY overthinking it.

I’ll address some of this stuff because I’m fighting a cold that’s giving me insomnia.

This scrub radius thing has become almost like OCD for some CTR owners.

I’m on second set of aftermarket wheels. My first ones poked too much for my liking (18x9.5+35 255/40/18), and I would get minor rear fender to tire contact (not enough to mark the tires) in the rear over expansion joints at interstate speeds in comfort mode only.

The car had very minor torque steer that I could feel on the +35s compared to stock. That was a Rays G07EX wheel designed for BMW fitment. My removal and selling of them had everything to do with performance Bridgestones that ran wide causing tire contact.

I went to Saga 18x9.5 +45 and they won’t rub the fender no matter what I do. Transferred the rubber over to the new wheels. Still very minor torque steer, and it’s a sliver of a fraction compared to any other performance focused boosted FWD car I’ve ever driven. Honda got this car right.

My point is this: The only reason people are making a huge deal about altering the scrub radius is because Honda published that the car was designed to have perfect scrub radius. If that blurb was not included in the press releases for the car, no one would ever notice aftermarket wheels inducing “tinkerbell” torque steer or commenting on it.

There are guys tracking on +40 offset 9.5” wheels with 265w rubber that will OBLITERATE the stock 20” wheels and any tire you can put on them around a racetrack. Obsessing over Tinkerbell torque steer isn’t their thing. Going fast as possible around a track is. If you really want to address something slowing us down, figure out the cooling issues on track, because they are many and not easy to fix.

I call total BS on production numbers hitting 100k. Demand is not that high for the CTR. We’re just over a quarter way there, but more than halfway through the production cycle, and they’ll idle Swindon down before they shutter it.

Aftermarket manufacturers don’t make +60 because they look goofy and sit very far in the fenders. If you like the Saga, there’s an 18x9+50 that will move the inside of the wheel less than 4mm from stock and the outside of the wheel 16mm. The performance difference of the lighter wheel/wider tire combo will more than compensate for slight change in offset. As a bonus, your CTR won’t ride like a log wagon anymore, nor will you bend a wheel if you accidentally run over a paper clip.

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So which is better, the Saga 18x9+50 or the ones you bought at 18x9.5+45?

NeoDiNardo said:

So which is better, the Saga 18x9+50 or the ones you bought at 18x9.5+45?

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Run what you like. I prefer the 9.5 +45 because more concave and still almost imperceptible torque steer.

Noize said:

Run what you like. I prefer the 9.5 +45 because more concave and still almost imperceptible torque steer.

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Ok I’m onboard with 18x9.5+45. Are there other measurements in that rim order I need to know about to order? For tires I was thinking Michelin Pilot Sport 4 S as I’ve had those before and they seemed good.

NeoDiNardo said:

Ok I’m onboard with 18x9.5+45. Are there other measurements in that rim order I need to know about to order? For tires I was thinking Michelin Pilot Sport 4 S as I’ve had those before and they seemed good.

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Of course our bolt pattern is 5x120, but any wheel shop worth their salt will ask you what car the wheels are going on.

Michelin PS4S are very good tires, decent grip and long life. Great for daily and back roads, and you can even track on them. Not an ultimate track tire, but probably the best overall compromise for do-it-all summer tire.

Wanted to go with a slightly more aggressive fit that will still clear the fendors when lowered and the calipers. Should be 2-3 more weeks till they come in.

Florence_NC said:

I wondered that myself.

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Noize said:

Of course our bolt pattern is 5x120, but any wheel shop worth their salt will ask you what car the wheels are going on.

Michelin PS4S are very good tires, decent grip and long life. Great for daily and back roads, and you can even track on them. Not an ultimate track tire, but probably the best overall compromise for do-it-all summer tire.

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Took me a bit but I figured out the 5x120 thing. I was watching a YouTube video explaining the measurements and I’m like wait I’m obviously missing something and that was it.

Edit: Are there any decent $500 a rim options worth considering? I love the Saga rims but they are $850 a pop. A bit more than I would have thought. Although, I think the bronze Saga’s will look fairly awesome on my red CTR. Perhaps I’ll save and do some OT at work. How much could I sell my old rims and tires for? Any demand for those factory sets?

Rays gramlights are good rims for around that under $500/rim.

Do bronze rims look good next to silver accents? Or should I go with a diamond dark gun metal? My friend says the spoke like ones are more like euro racing cars.

I think I’m down to the Volk Saga or The Volk CE28N. Can’t decide on color.







Edit: looks like I’m having the dealer remove those exterior bottom door chrome accent as it does not match the bronze or even the car very well being the only chrome on it.

Bronze 18x9.5 +45 TE’s if my car was red.

SAGA center cap comparo:

$14 plastic Ebay 3 week delivery on slow boat from China knock offs, had to mod to fit. vs. $220 aluminum painted/color matched to actual wheels from Rays. Perfect fit. Your money, your decision.

Florence_NC said:

1) The relationship between the wheel/tire and the strut is controlled through the steering knuckle/kingpin/strut assembly, and these components are rigidly connected, therefore unaffected by load on the suspension.

2) The car was on a 4-post lift with all the weight still on the tires. So the above is irrelevant anyway.

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That is incorrect. The car has about 5-6 ball joints per side. That is not a rigid connection

Florence_NC said:

I am not sure Rat Rods is a good example. A Model T is a terrible car to drive in stock form. Just about anything you do makes it a better road vehicle. Putting wheels on a CTR that screws up the functionality of a cutting-edge design makes the car worse, at least from an engineering standpoint. Don't see much of a parallel here.

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My point about the Model T has nothing to do with the Model T itself. My point is there are people who see modifying a car as blasphemy. Forget the model T and take a Porsche 964... the amount of ways you can modify that car is unbelievable. To a purist, it isn't a Porsche anymore because it wasn't designed to have a widebody kit on air suspension or raised and fitted with rally tires to jump the dunes. Point is the car community has different tastes and unfortunately it isn't your cup of tea.

Don't get me wrong...I HATE stretched tires and wheels that force you to have -5 camber to make them fit. I also understand that there are thousands of kids who love that and companies such as Rotiform are taking advantage of that market. I enter car shows knowing I'm not going to win against a kid who drives a 911 GT3 slammed to the floor or a lamborghini with a widebody kit. Thats just the car community though. If you can't come to terms with that, you're going to drive yourself crazy.

Is there a medical reason to put implants on a chick? No...but why do we do it? Same thing...