type r shift boot collar - why some cannot remove lock nut

turboshawn

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Maybe Honda had bad jam nuts.. an when your not paying attention an loosening it an stripping the the threads on the shaft but something isn’t right here never seen that happen. Maybe some tried some cheap shift knob with wrong size jam but an jack it all up
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R-10552

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From this video the lock nut is turn left to loosen the nut.
No it isn't. It's turned right to release it from the knob then turned left to remove the nut (loosen it) which is correct.
 

Chi_The_Process

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No it isn't. It's turned right to release it from the knob then turned left to remove the nut (loosen it) which is correct.
You basically said the same thing I said. I never mention releasing it. You were having issues removing the lock nut from the shifter.
 

02SilverSiHB

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You basically said the same thing I said. I never mention releasing it. You were having issues removing the lock nut from the shifter.
lol, I think both of you are making assumptions...but then again maybe I am also...but...

I think R-10552 thought you were supporting ctrmofo's post saying it went the other way...but it doesn't, like you showed in the vid.
R-10552 might have thought that and then said the same thing as you were trying to say, lmao...this post is nuts.
 


turboshawn

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This is nuts bro... this is like saying.. I think my Honda lug nuts tighten counter clock wise lol.. it sucks if someone has stripped threads but Honda doesn’t make two different shifter rods with different threads an reversed threads on the other end the lock nut is on. Yes lock nut has to be turned clock wise to break free from the shifter ball/knob then spun counter clockwise to take off of rod an shifter assembly when the shift ball is spun off counter clock wise.. so that’s break free/quarter turn clock wise or righty tighty on locking nut... spin shift ball/knob off then spin locking nut off counter clock wise or lefty loosy. Threads are threads on a bolt or rod or whatever you choose to put them on Honda didn’t reinvent the wheel here folks. Goodluck hope not to many people have to deal with messed up threads on there shaft lol
 

tinyman392

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No it isn't. It's turned right to release it from the knob then turned left to remove the nut (loosen it) which is correct.
This is how mine is. I turn my clockwise to "free" the shift knob (which is turned counter clockwise to remove while breaking it free). If I want to remove the nut, I turn counterclockwise for a little while :p (I have my knob nice and low).
 

JSmoothBui

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So what happens if someone has stripped threads? Is there something to fix it or just replace it?
 


Torf

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Pretty sure this is a quality control problem at the Swindon UK plant (or possibly where the subassembly is made). Either a British bloke ran the lock nut too far down the shifter arm and partially into the unthreaded shaft (thanks a lot Limey) or the tool they use was not calibrated to the proper torque. Either way, my lock nut is stuck and I can't remove the console because the boot won't go past the lock nut. This was a real pain when I installed my console lighting. Wonder if they would fix this under warranty...
 

tinyman392

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Pretty sure this is a quality control problem at the Swindon UK plant (or possibly where the subassembly is made). Either a British bloke ran the lock nut too far down the shifter arm and partially into the unthreaded shaft (thanks a lot Limey) or the tool they use was not calibrated to the proper torque. Either way, my lock nut is stuck and I can't remove the console because the boot won't go past the lock nut. This was a real pain when I installed my console lighting. Wonder if they would fix this under warranty...
This is technically a defect, so I would assume it's covered under warranty.
 

ManfromRI

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Pretty sure this is a quality control problem at the Swindon UK plant (or possibly where the subassembly is made). Either a British bloke ran the lock nut too far down the shifter arm and partially into the unthreaded shaft (thanks a lot Limey) or the tool they use was not calibrated to the proper torque. Either way, my lock nut is stuck and I can't remove the console because the boot won't go past the lock nut. This was a real pain when I installed my console lighting. Wonder if they would fix this under warranty...

I would doubt that someone manually hand-tapped each shift lever. I assume they are all done on CNC and other automated machining. Errors do happen in machining and that's what QA/QC is for. However, Some stuff gets through the cracks. I would try to get yours fixed through warranty. If they give you trouble you could always buy a short-throw kit, or somehow re-tap your current setup (assuming there is enough thread pitch left to hold everything together)

Let us know how you make out.
 

JayeGee

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here's one of our other cars showing the differences in thread sections. clearly different from other pic (repost here to show side by side).

what's interesting is the oem knob are all the same thread so the upper thread is the "correct" thread for the knob. that we can conclude.

it's the bottom thread or the collar thread itself is way off.

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V9F3rKMGKiCqvWVrAIMvNxU8oxDGElCKsa1vqkF-fNfITCL01aawZkaVAor5dV88SsZiAfySg&_nc_ht=scontent-iad3-1.jpg
yup damaged threads that happened to me wasn't easy to fix.
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