Blew my engine on a 4krpm 2 step cold start.....

joshhjackson2112 said:

You never had black soot on your exhaust? Is that possible? I have been cleaning my exhaust of black stuff since before I did any modifications.

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I did when the motor was breaking in. It seemed to stop at around 15k miles.

joshhjackson2112 said:

You never had black soot on your exhaust? Is that possible? I have been cleaning my exhaust of black stuff since before I did any modifications.

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Josh: You are more than likely operating at rich AFR. Monitor your AFR and/or record some datalogs in various situations to see where you are.

This is a built Honda Civic by SpeedFactory, used in a race venue up in the NW - and they don't use "anti-lag".
There is a full minute from 2:07 to 3:04 from different angles of the same race....Now that is racing

Sorry for posting & not keeping up. Fortunately for me I had just bought a Tacoma 2017 a few weeks before blowing up my engine. I’m taking the cheap way out I guess. If you guys don’t mind, I can’t find the answer anywhere how do I know what type of vin I have ? If it’s a vin 1, vin 2 or vin 3 etc. my vin is 19XFC1E31HE005575. I’m pretty positive it’s a vin 1 sedan “174.” Some confirmation before I buy an engine would be awesome!

I want to get the car running as cheaply & reliable as possible . I had already decided to take a break on the car & start focusing on building up my truck. But who knows at this point.

Another thing what exactly would I need to put an SI engine ? Any addition parts ? Thanks again for all the info

& lastly WE all know it was dumb. That’s in the past. We’re hear to help each other & talk about cars. Nor am I mad or anything just saying ha.

dallasjhawk said:

Depends on why it blew and how many miles you had. Could be out of warranty period could have missed a shift and over revved the engine etc

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First thing they asked was if I had a “chip” in it , then they say they would be able to tell if I was lying , then they said it was a solid no on warranty if I did.

bgutierrezx said:

Another thing what exactly would I need to put an SI engine ? Any addition parts ? Thanks again for all the info

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If your overall concern is the cost it will take, take the path of least resistance (lowest cost).
BUT: In your instance, it would be more beneficial to get a whole LONG BLOCK - because the investigation to determine the exact engine damage incurs both cost/time.
The Si motor is the same structural design, but has the slightly modified turbo and then you have the ECU and transmission.
You wouldn't have to go straight through Honda for the fix. A reputable shop may just shave off $500-1000 from what Honda would charge.
At least take the leap toward knowing what your associated costs would be and then plot your course on affordability.

You have much INTEGRITY and are in keeping of the 7 Principles of Leadership (ARMY). You have taken the "Road Less Travelled" by admitting your fault in this instance. Many another (just on this forum alone) play the complete innocent role - until their own confessions in their history reveals their true nature.

SUGGESTION:
I do not know what MOS you are (and it doesn't matter); however, you are @FT CARSON. Check with BOTH your own Brigade's HHC Motorpool CWO & the 4th STBs HHC Motorpool CWO and talk to them. See if they have a junior soldier or even an E5 that is handy with motors. If you're lucky, you can lower your installation costs, granted: You obtain the NEW or USED motor & offer a fixed labor cost for the person/persons helping you. You can always use the installation's Auto Skills Center and they should have just about all you need for support.

That's the best I can provide for you, as far as information goes.

Hollywoo0220 said:

If your overall concern is the cost it will take, take the path of least resistance (lowest cost).
The Si motor is the same structural design, but has the slightly modified turbo and then you have the ECU and transmission.
You wouldn't have to go straight through Honda for the fix. A reputable shop may just shave off $500-1000 from what Honda would charge.
At least take the leap toward knowing what your associated costs would be and then plot your course on affordability.

You have much INTEGRITY and are in keeping of the 7 Principles of Leadership (ARMY). You have taken the "Road Less Travelled" by admitting your fault in this instance. Many another (just on this forum alone) play the complete innocent role - until their own confessions in their history reveals their true nature.

SUGGESTION:
I do not know what MOS you are (and it doesn't matter); however, you are @FT CARSON. Check with BOTH your own Brigade's HHC Motorpool CWO & the 4th STBs HHC Motorpool CWO and talk to them. See if they have a junior soldier or even an E5 that is handy with motors. If you're lucky, you can lower your installation costs, granted: You obtain the NEW or USED motor & offer a fixed labor cost for the person/persons helping you. You can always use the installation's Auto Skills Center and they should have just about all you need for support.

That's the best I can provide for you, as far as information goes.

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X2. That's a great suggestion.

We've got auto ports in the Navy. Bay fees are very inexpensive. If need be, you can leave them overnight day after day. Depending on the size of the group you work with, there's still a good chance you'll find someone that'd be willing to help if you throw them a few bucks. There's staff there too... though I don't know if they'll take on the job. I think their labor rates for general work is $50/hour... but they have access to pretty much any factory service manual and will advise you as you work for nothing. Tools are all there. Lifts. Engine/tranny lift to drop them out the bottom.

Where I've been stationed they had them in Charlestown, SC, Portsmouth, VA (crazy they have such a good one at the tiny Scott Annex), here at Kingsbay. I think they had one in Bangor, though I never used that one.

They really are great. I used the one here and in Charleston way back when, even if it was for work I could have done in a driveway. It just went easier lifting the whole car and being able to go wild on it for a few dollars for the bay rental.

I'm not sure what branch you're in... but even if the base you're at doesn't have it, check the others within a reasonable towing distance. If there's something 1/2 an hour down the road, it might be worth it.

Hollywoo0220 said:

This is a built Honda Civic by SpeedFactory, used in a race venue up in the NW - and they don't use "anti-lag".
There is a full minute from 2:07 to 3:04 from different angles of the same race....Now that is racing

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Anti-lag is useless in drag. If you're still on a manual transmission, you're no-lift shifting anyway.

Anti-lag is most useful in rally and road racing when you're off the throttle to brake, but you need to keep the turbo spooled. Keeping the turbo spooled keeps the power up for acceleration out of corners.

Even in auto-x anti-lag is almost useless because you're on and off the throttle too fast. Not to mention, in auto-x the corners can be tight and slow, coming out of a corner with too much power can unsettle the car and cost you time.

bgutierrezx said:

Sorry for posting & not keeping up. Fortunately for me I had just bought a Tacoma 2017 a few weeks before blowing up my engine. I’m taking the cheap way out I guess. If you guys don’t mind, I can’t find the answer anywhere how do I know what type of vin I have ? If it’s a vin 1, vin 2 or vin 3 etc. my vin is 19XFC1E31HE005575. I’m pretty positive it’s a vin 1 sedan “174.” Some confirmation before I buy an engine would be awesome!

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VIN 1 for you. Pm me if you need any info. I’m back and running with a new engine and clutch already.

Sooooooo................An Si engine will bolt up to a CVT without issues? And the only benefit is connecting rods that are stronger.

Personally am looking to upgrade to Saenz Rods and JE Pistons. This would enable to car to take upwards to 800hp. However I am not pushing any more power through than the TSP Stage 1. Even my custom tune is just some fine tuning. Power is the same. This is to preserve my CVT.

Possible I may be taking the path of least resistance. No sense to overbuild and have it cost 2-3-4X as much as keeping it simple. Still waiting to hear what's needed after my engine is torn down to see what's needed to be replaced. I have two other cars with projects on them I'd like to get moving on.