The Official ACUITY Instruments CivicX product launch thread!

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powow66

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Hey, in your video you mentioned for a brief second at 5:50 that you did a "shifter fix", and pointed to what looked like two purple zip ties on your cable connector sleeve. What happened there?
Hey man!

Thanks again for the mention and link above Baldheadracing, you're quick to respond! :thumbsup:

Quick overview of the "fix". There is nothing wrong mechanically with the shifter. The "fix" is basically strategically placed zip-ties to resolve an annoying clunk sound that occurs on some 10th gens upon installing any short shifter extender/adapter. The additional length of these aftermarket extenders reduce throw, but the oem design of a black plastic bushing on the gear selector cable secures the cable loosely on the oem shifter assembly. Short throw extenders/adapters in general will impose a slight angle on the shifter cable when shifting (again, this angle is not harmful to the car), and as a result push up slightly on that plastic bushing in a way that it "clunks" or "clicks" at the attachment point on the shifter. I'm actually currently working on revising the "fix" video description to provide a better explanation for those who want to learn more about this.
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teders

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Hey man!

Thanks again for the mention and link above Baldheadracing, you're quick to respond! :thumbsup:

Quick overview of the "fix". There is nothing wrong mechanically with the shifter. The "fix" is basically strategically placed zip-ties to resolve an annoying clunk sound that occurs on some 10th gens upon installing any short shifter extender/adapter. The additional length of these aftermarket extenders reduce throw, but the oem design of a black plastic bushing on the gear selector cable secures the cable loosely on the oem shifter assembly. Short throw extenders/adapters in general will impose a slight angle on the shifter cable when shifting (again, this angle is not harmful to the car), and as a result push up slightly on that plastic bushing in a way that it "clunks" or "clicks" at the attachment point on the shifter. I'm actually currently working on revising the "fix" video description to provide a better explanation for those who want to learn more about this.
Thanks for the info man. I just watched the video, it is very well made. I'm glad you showed an example of the sound, because know i know that my car doesn't make that sound. I was fortunate enough to get my hands on the Type R shift base through one of the OEM part resellers. Maybe the angle on mine for the cable bushings is more favorable to the longer shift bar.
 

powow66

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Thanks for the info man. I just watched the video, it is very well made. I'm glad you showed an example of the sound, because know i know that my car doesn't make that sound. I was fortunate enough to get my hands on the Type R shift base through one of the OEM part resellers. Maybe the angle on mine for the cable bushings is more favorable to the longer shift bar.
No problem! We're happy to help. Thank you for the compliments! And that's awesome you haven't had any sound issues as well with an oem shifter!
 

MeanGreenSi

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Thank you for sharing my video Baldheadracing!
Powow66 thank you for the videos, makes installing everything so much easier.

Acuity thank you for quality products. Placing an order for the centering spring, base bushings, collar, trim tool set, and waiting to see what colors and how they look for the shift knob. Nice to be able to get everything straight from your site.
 


baldheadracing

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Are you able to comment on what settings are closes to stock?
@CincyTypeR - I can't fully answer your question, as @ACUITY may fine-tune the adjustment ranges between the prototypes and production, so the settings we have now may well change.

For example, in throw (1-2, 3-4, 5-6) I think that the prototype can be adjusted longer than the Type R, and probably (I haven't driven one in four months) longer than the Si - but would people want that, or would they like to be able to go shorter than what can be done with the prototype? With the prototype, I did some jumping between my car and a stock Type R and 2.5 seemed comparable in throw (1 is longest, 5 is shortest) - but the production piece could well have a different range. (Myself, I settled on 3.5/5 - I'll be posting a video next week talking about how I made my adjustment choices.)

Knob height and rotation are other settings that may well change between prototype and production. (Again, you'll get a rough idea of the possibilities from my upcoming video.)

The other setting is gate spacing (across the H's), but that is tied together with gate behaviour overall, and there is no way to get gate behaviour "close to stock." First of all, the feel is totally different - for example, I swear that I can feel the synchros meshing when the trans is cold. (Temps are in the 20's F here, so slow synchronization is to be expected.) The level of precision is, well, what I'd expect in something that is probably going to cost 10x the factory part. Second, the centering spring/rocker action is strong ... stronger than ACUITY's "Stage 2" centering spring/rocker. How strong? Well, with some factory shifters, 5-2 downshifts can happen instead of 5-4, especially while threshold braking on a track. That is just not going to happen with this shifter. Pull back from fifth on the prototype and you're going to get fourth every time. (Conversely, you have to apply a deliberate sideways effort to go 5-6 in the prototype, whereas in the usual factory shifter, pulling back from fifth will generally get you sixth gear.)

Hope this helps.
 

CincyTypeR

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@CincyTypeR - I can't fully answer your question, as @ACUITY may fine-tune the adjustment ranges between the prototypes and production, so the settings we have now may well change.

For example, in throw (1-2, 3-4, 5-6) I think that the prototype can be adjusted longer than the Type R, and probably (I haven't driven one in four months) longer than the Si - but would people want that, or would they like to be able to go shorter than what can be done with the prototype? With the prototype, I did some jumping between my car and a stock Type R and 2.5 seemed comparable in throw (1 is longest, 5 is shortest) - but the production piece could well have a different range. (Myself, I settled on 3.5/5 - I'll be posting a video next week talking about how I made my adjustment choices.)

Knob height and rotation are other settings that may well change between prototype and production. (Again, you'll get a rough idea of the possibilities from my upcoming video.)

The other setting is gate spacing (across the H's), but that is tied together with gate behaviour overall, and there is no way to get gate behaviour "close to stock." First of all, the feel is totally different - for example, I swear that I can feel the synchros meshing when the trans is cold. (Temps are in the 20's F here, so slow synchronization is to be expected.) The level of precision is, well, what I'd expect in something that is probably going to cost 10x the factory part. Second, the centering spring/rocker action is strong ... stronger than ACUITY's "Stage 2" centering spring/rocker. How strong? Well, with some factory shifters, 5-2 downshifts can happen instead of 5-4, especially while threshold braking on a track. That is just not going to happen with this shifter. Pull back from fifth on the prototype and you're going to get fourth every time. (Conversely, you have to apply a deliberate sideways effort to go 5-6 in the prototype, whereas in the usual factory shifter, pulling back from fifth will generally get you sixth gear.)

Hope this helps.
Thank you for the feedback. This is a must purchase for myself and mainly just preparing myself for a starting point and make adjustments from there.
 
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ACUITY

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glossyprimerX

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I haven’t seen the MSRP for the prototype shifter. Is it posted somewhere and I missed it. I don’t want to spend $300 upgrading my base shifter then find out the complete unit sells for $400. Any insight?
 

baldheadracing

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I haven’t seen the MSRP for the prototype shifter. Is it posted somewhere and I missed it. I don’t want to spend $300 upgrading my base shifter then find out the complete unit sells for $400. Any insight?
No MSRP has been posted. For comparison, the ninth-gen shifter is a little over $400 but does not include base bushings, but the tenth-gen will include shifter-specific base bushings (AFAIK) ... so my totally-uninformed guess is that the new shifter will cost more than ninth-gen.

However, shifter cable bushings are not part of the shifter and are available now, and you'll definitely want those if you are going to get the full shifter. (The shift boot collar and shift knob are also not part of the shifter AFAIK.)
 
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