Group Buy - SPEC Clutch Kits for the 2016+ Civic

BoostedDreams

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IvanJonn

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Keep an eye out on this page. Official price isn’t out yet, but it’s suppose to be on par with their current group buy pricing.
https://www.civicx.com/threads/spec...heel-combos-are-now-available-to-order.28139/
Are you going for their regular clutch kit that is compatible with the OEM DMF? Or the proprietary kit with their lightweight SMF? My stock clutch is slipping bad so I'm debating between the Stage 3+ regular kit or the Stage 2+ Proprietary Kit. My main concern is if I want to deal with the extra drivetrain noise with the SMF. Also I heard the misfire monitor doesn't go off with a SMF on this gen Civic. Is this proven true?
 

BoostedDreams

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Are you going for their regular clutch kit that is compatible with the OEM DMF? Or the proprietary kit with their lightweight SMF? My stock clutch is slipping bad so I'm debating between the Stage 3+ regular kit or the Stage 2+ Proprietary Kit. My main concern is if I want to deal with the extra drivetrain noise with the SMF. Also I heard the misfire monitor doesn't go off with a SMF on this gen Civic. Is this proven true?
There is a video on that link that shows the drivetrain noise using their 11lb flywheel. It’s not bad. I’m getting their stainless steel SMF with likely the state 2+ clutch. You’re looking at only roughly $200 more to get their flywheel. If you want just their clutch using your stock FW, then the 3+ might be your best bet. They didn’t throw a misfire using their aluminum flywheel either .
 

airickmatthews

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There is a video on that link that shows the drivetrain noise using their 11lb flywheel. It’s not bad. I’m getting their stainless steel SMF with likely the state 2+ clutch. You’re looking at only roughly $200 more to get their flywheel. If you want just their clutch using your stock FW, then the 3+ might be your best bet. They didn’t throw a misfire using their aluminum flywheel either .
Same here. Waiting patiently for the stage 2+ with steel. Need that before installing my TSP flex fuel kit. And wanting to order 27won turbo upgrade as well.
 

IvanJonn

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Dang... It really isn't a bad deal to get the flywheel too. Especially for just an extra $200.

My biggest thing right now is I don't know when they will release the steel flywheel version. So it's either the aluminum or the regular clutch kit. I'm in a rush because my clutch literally went to crap last night on my drive home. Literally went from good to bad real quick. It was normal all day, then suddenly on my drive home as I try to downshift, I get locked out of my gears and the clutch gets stuck to the ground (just once, until I pulled it back up) I managed to get it back in gear and stop to check if there was any fluid leakage but there was none. But the smell of burning clutch was definitely present. I can drive it again, but barely. Clutch slips as soon as boost hits. For the tank of gas I was running, I was being very fuel efficient. No pulls and tried hard to stay off boost. The second I downshift and pull a little the clutch goes to crap.

Any of you guys have any idea to why the clutch would give out so suddenly?

Some background info though. I did remove the clutch delay valve, and was running the TSP Stage 1 tune. I do have a heavy foot and will admit that. I was expecting clutch slip to happen sooner or later but I had expected it to occur exponentially. Why did it just start slipping so suddenly?

Hopefully I can decide on a clutch soon. Unexpected expenses suck. Haha
 


BoostedDreams

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Dang... It really isn't a bad deal to get the flywheel too. Especially for just an extra $200.

My biggest thing right now is I don't know when they will release the steel flywheel version. So it's either the aluminum or the regular clutch kit. I'm in a rush because my clutch literally went to crap last night on my drive home. Literally went from good to bad real quick. It was normal all day, then suddenly on my drive home as I try to downshift, I get locked out of my gears and the clutch gets stuck to the ground (just once, until I pulled it back up) I managed to get it back in gear and stop to check if there was any fluid leakage but there was none. But the smell of burning clutch was definitely present. I can drive it again, but barely. Clutch slips as soon as boost hits. For the tank of gas I was running, I was being very fuel efficient. No pulls and tried hard to stay off boost. The second I downshift and pull a little the clutch goes to crap.

Any of you guys have any idea to why the clutch would give out so suddenly?

Some background info though. I did remove the clutch delay valve, and was running the TSP Stage 1 tune. I do have a heavy foot and will admit that. I was expecting clutch slip to happen sooner or later but I had expected it to occur exponentially. Why did it just start slipping so suddenly?

Hopefully I can decide on a clutch soon. Unexpected expenses suck. Haha
It’ll be with a week or 2. If it’s that bad either opt for the aluminum flywheel and clutch or flash to to stock and don’t hit boost. I did see something under ktuner that disables boost, but i have no experience using it.
 

IvanJonn

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It’ll be with a week or 2. If it’s that bad either opt for the aluminum flywheel and clutch or flash to to stock and don’t hit boost. I did see something under ktuner that disables boost, but i have no experience using it.
The TSP Stage 1 tune has 3 boost maps and when it started happening I switched back to the factory boost maps immediately. Still slips, unfortunately. I actually used that boost disable feature. Car is way too slow to be usable and I feel puts extra strain on the engine. Plus not too long 5 minutes after driving that way my car began pulling codes, so not going back there haha.

How do you think my stock flywheel is holding up after that though? Should I just get the regular kit or the SMF?
 

BoostedDreams

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The TSP Stage 1 tune has 3 boost maps and when it started happening I switched back to the factory boost maps immediately. Still slips, unfortunately. I actually used that boost disable feature. Car is way too slow to be usable and I feel puts extra strain on the engine. Plus not too long 5 minutes after driving that way my car began pulling codes, so not going back there haha.

How do you think my stock flywheel is holding up after that though? Should I just get the regular kit or the SMF?
Wow that’s good to know. It’s hard to say without opening it up. Personally, if the $200 ish dollars won’t break the bank I would get the SMF with it. It will perform better than with the OEM DMF.
 

IvanJonn

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Wow that’s good to know. It’s hard to say without opening it up. Personally, if the $200 ish dollars won’t break the bank I would get the SMF with it. It will perform better than with the OEM DMF.
Dang... I'm really debating that SMF now then. At this point with that, my only concerns are if I should wait for the steel, and the whole misfire situation. I read that the 10th gen doesn't have the issue other gens had with changing from DMF to SMF but was this completely proven? I just ask cause I mean down the road after 6 years, my car is going to have to go through the smog checks here in CA. And if I can't smog it cause the flywheel is causing a misfire code, then maybe I shouldn't get the flywheel... Does that make sense?
 

BoostedDreams

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Dang... I'm really debating that SMF now then. At this point with that, my only concerns are if I should wait for the steel, and the whole misfire situation. I read that the 10th gen doesn't have the issue other gens had with changing from DMF to SMF but was this completely proven? I just ask cause I mean down the road after 6 years, my car is going to have to go through the smog checks here in CA. And if I can't smog it cause the flywheel is causing a misfire code, then maybe I shouldn't get the flywheel... Does that make sense?
I can only go by this:

Honda Civic 10th gen Group Buy - SPEC Clutch Kits for the 2016+ Civic B8F3753B-4E54-4100-B279-BBB1063AE83F
 


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I spoke to @Two Step Performance via DM over the weekend and they said the steel flywheels were being machined last friday and that they were hoping to have them shipping by this week, but I don't want to put words in their mouth (so please interject if you object to anything I put here). Anyway, I'm guessing they should be released before the end of next week if you can wait. Also, they strongly advised the stage 2+ for a daily unless you're really planning on tracking/going crazy with power. It's rated up to about ~380ft/lbs at the wheel which I think is right about even with the 27won upgrade + flexfuel.
 

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I spoke to @Two Step Performance via DM over the weekend and they said the steel flywheels were being machined last friday and that they were hoping to have them shipping by this week, but I don't want to put words in their mouth (so please interject if you object to anything I put here). Anyway, I'm guessing they should be released before the end of next week if you can wait. Also, they strongly advised the stage 2+ for a daily unless you're really planning on tracking/going crazy with power. It's rated up to about ~380ft/lbs at the wheel which I think is right about even with the 27won upgrade + flexfuel.
Sweet! Exact route I’m taking.
 

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Sweet! Exact route I’m taking.
I don't think the 27Won upgrade has seen that high of wtq from all the people that I have seen share dyno #'s including DRob too.
 

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Was just pulling from whatever dyno graph on the 27won blog. Definitely in CA, don't think anyone will be hitting that high with 91, even with flex. But figured best case scenario, 2+ will be more than plenty for most people. Wasn't trying to mislead people with dyno numbers or anything.
 
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IvanJonn

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So... Quick update for you all, I might end up going with the aluminum flywheel. My clutch just went to crap and can barely move in 1st gear. Really sad moment. Can't sit around waiting for the steel flywheel cause I don't have another car to use as I'm just borrowing a friends A3 in the meantime. Burnt clutch doesn't smell great either. I'm deciding to go with the flywheel also because I'm concerned about the condition of the stock flywheel. I don't want to be stuck in a situation where the flywheel needs attention, and this could only be figured out once it's taken apart so I'd rather just replace it than be backed up further on the repair. I hope the chatter from the video isn't as bad in person! Seems to be a sound that is quiet enough to live with.
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