The Oil Thread

Don't understand this absurd fascination with engine oil. This is an inexpensive car which with minimal routine maintenance will give many years of reliable service.

This is an inexpensive car, it ain't the space shuttle!

Design said:

Amsoil's guidance is based solely on time/mileage. As we know, Honda's is based on a much more complicated algorithm.

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True. I takes into account driving conditions, driving style and probably many other things.
Mine is at 30% at under 6.000Km, mainly due to my hard driving style, probably.

My 8th.gen wasn't calibrated like this it would go about 10.000Km regardless.

fjrman said:

Don't understand this absurd fascination with engine oil. This is an inexpensive car which with minimal routine maintenance will give many years of reliable service.

This is an inexpensive car, it ain't the space shuttle!

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Paying attention to your engine oil and using a high quality oil is the difference of your car running for 180,000 miles and 350,000 miles.

If you're planning to get rid of your car after 5 years and you don't care what happens to it afterward, then put the cheapest stuff you can in it. But if you plan on keeping this car until the wheels fall off it, then that extra $30 on your oil change is going to repay you with double the engine life.

Remember, the only thing keeping your engine from welding itself together is the engine oil.

Design, thanks for creating this thread.
What you could do is take everyone's post that has UOA and insert it into your OP, so people don't have to read through the whole thread every time that want to see them.

What most people do that create compilation posts like this is to go ahead and reply again with at least one blank post, and they later add info from other posts to that post instead. I guess it's too late for that now (?), unless a mod can edit the thread and insert a post, but I don't know if Xenforo allows that.

Also, for anyone that's quotes a post that has a UOA, I'd recommend please removing the attached UOA document from the quoted portion (actually this is common etiquette for any forum). That makes the thread more messy, and uses unnecessary bandwidth for those on slow connections, or cell users with limited or pay-as-you-go bandwidth. So, remove any MEDIA, ATTACH, or IMG links from quotes.

As time goes by, this thread could become an even more useful resource.

We've consolidated all the UOAs in a separate thread that's being managed by @Snoopyslr . Members can still post them here for discussion.

The UOA database is accessible in the OP.

Design said:

We've consolidated all the UOAs in a separate thread that's being managed by @Snoopyslr . Members can still post them here for discussion.

The UOA database is accessible in the OP.

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Ah OK. I missed that among all the other links.

Any oil brands we should be staying away from. Here in Canada we have a chain store called Canadian Tire that sells mostly quality oils. There are however some less conventional places like grocery stores that sell oil brands most people have probably never heard of and the googling of which shows that the oil is not popular.

If you know of any such oil brands to stay the hell away from, please let be known, it's just as useful information as what brands to stick to.

Just buy full synthetic by Pennzoil, Mobil1 or Castrol and you'll be fine.
They go on sale a couple of times a year at CT and even Walmart and sell for a substantial discount.

civicdabest-foo said:

Any oil brands we should be staying away from. Here in Canada we have a chain store called Canadian Tire that sells mostly quality oils. There are however some less conventional places like grocery stores that sell oil brands most people have probably never heard of and the googling of which shows that the oil is not popular.

If you know of any such oil brands to stay the hell away from, please let be known, it's just as useful information as what brands to stick to.

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Worst case, anything with the API seal should be fine in a stock motor following the maintenance minder. You probably wouldn't notice a difference in quality until after 100K.

absolude said:

Just buy full synthetic by Pennzoil, Mobil1 or Castrol and you'll be fine.
They go on sale a couple of times a year at CT and even Walmart and sell for a substantial discount.

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Walmart is selling 5L bottles of Quaker State Ultimate Durability 0W20 for $22 I think. I bought 2 jugs 2 months ago. It was a steal

Look for one that is Dexos 1 Gen 2. These are better for small turbo engines.

I just changed my FF at 4588 miles and put in Pennzoil Platinum 0W20 with a Fram Ultra filter

About to head to the local Valvoline store for my 2018 1.5LT Civic's first oil change. It's a daily commuter care driven gently. I'll be doing maintenance as suggested by the maintenance minder. Any reason why the cheaper conventional oil option isn't gonna work just fine for me?

LilRedCivic said:

About to head to the local Valvoline store for my 2018 1.5LT Civic's first oil change. It's a daily commuter care driven gently. I'll be doing maintenance as suggested by the maintenance minder. Any reason why the cheaper conventional oil option isn't gonna work just fine for me?

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https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=3032609

LilRedCivic said:

About to head to the local Valvoline store for my 2018 1.5LT Civic's first oil change. It's a daily commuter care driven gently. I'll be doing maintenance as suggested by the maintenance minder. Any reason why the cheaper conventional oil option isn't gonna work just fine for me?

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Didn't know 0w-20 was available in conventional form.