Spoon Springs Install DIY

spoonsportsusa

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We've swapped the springs out a few times already so we just wanted to share the method that is quickest for us. Total time for the front is about 1 hour and rear is 10 minutes.

Front

1. Remove undertray (to access lower arm bolts connected to the subframe)
IMG_6053.JPG


2. Disconnect the swaybar end link side that attached to the strut on BOTH sides of the car by removing the nut. This prevents the suspension from binding when dropping the strut. Pull the link out of the strut.
IMG_6044.JPG


3. Disconnect damper electrical connector (pry the tab up in the gap).
IMG_6034.JPG


4. Remove the bracket holding the connector line and brake line.
IMG_6041.JPG


5. Disconnect ride height sensor bracket that connects to the lower arm.
IMG_6002-2.jpg


6. Disconnect the front suspension link. (behind plastic brake air guide)
IMG_6002.JPG


7. Remove the bolts that hold the front lower arm to the subframe. (3 bolts)
IMG_6029.JPG


8. Remove the two pinch bolts holding the bottom of the strut
IMG_5998.JPG


9. Remove the nuts on the top of the strut to the body.
IMG_5981.JPG


10. At this time you can pull off the locating tab in order to get some extra camber in the front.
IMG_5987.JPG


11. Pull the lower arm out of subframe and be careful not to pull the driveshaft out. At this time the whole assembly should be loose and provide enough clearance to wiggle the strut out. (Sorry no proper picture here)
IMG_6008.JPG


12. Use spring compressors to compress the spring and take the top nut off holding the hat.
IMG_5993.JPG


13. Cut off one section the bump stop.
IMG_5995.JPG


14. Transfer over the rubber bases and take note of how it slots onto the spring and bottom perch.
IMG_9913.JPG


15. Compress the spring and install it on the strut. Make sure all the rubber pieces are correctly positioned as they tend to shift during assembly.
IMG_9917.JPG


16. Reinstall onto the car in reverse order.
IMG_9929.JPG


Rear

1. Remove the bolt holding the swaybar link to the lower arm.
IMG_6061.JPG


2. Remove the bolt holding the lower arm to the knuckle.
IMG_6068.JPG


3. Pull the lower arm down and the spring should fall out.
IMG_6067.JPG


4. Transfer over the rubber perches and take make sure the tabs are aligned when reinstalling.
IMG_9932.JPG


5. Put a floor jack under the lower arm and raise it until the bolt holes line up.
IMG_6067 (2).JPG


6. Reinstall the two bolts.
IMG_6068 (2).JPG
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Skate1530

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I have an incredibly difficult time finishing step 13 please help le
 
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I have an incredibly difficult time finishing step 13 please help le
Step 13 is cutting the bump stop, what are you having trouble with? It's a rubbery material so using a hand saw or a knife with teeth makes it easier.
 

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omg, I freaking knew it. Everyone told me to remove that freaking bolt that is pressed in (the one with the castle nut) and I didn't need to...I should have stuck to my instincts and did what you guys did. Nice install DIY!
 

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Oh, for #10 in the front, you just basically rotate it to the right and it comes out below? Thanks!
 


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spoonsportsusa

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Oh, for #10 in the front, you just basically rotate it to the right and it comes out below? Thanks!
Sorry, we kind of blew right past that. You can remove that tab even when the strut is still on the car. You actually can't rotate it because it's splined so it doesn't spin. The easiest way is to put a nut on it for grip strength and leverage and wiggle it out, it come off pretty easily. This will allow you to push the strut inwards towards to middle and get about 1 degree of camber adjustment. We recommend removing it during the spring install because it makes re-installing the strut easier and most people will need alignment after a spring install anyways so it's good time to do so.
 
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fmoua916

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Sorry, we kind of blew right past that. You can remove that tab even when the strut is still on the car. You actually can't rotate it because it's splined so it doesn't spin. The easiest way is to put a nut on it for grip strength and leverage and wiggle it out, it come off pretty easily. This will allow you to push the strut inwards towards to middle and get about 1 degree more negative camber. We recommend removing it during the spring install because it makes re-installing the strut easier and most people will need alignment after a spring install anyways so it's good time to do so.
Removing the top bolt will not add anywhere close to -1.0 degree of camber it is more like just -0.2 to -0.3 degree of camber
 
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spoonsportsusa

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Removing the top bolt will not add anywhere close to -1.0 degree of camber it is more like just -0.2 to -0.3 degree of camber
I should correct the statement. It provides 1 degree of camber adjustment range. So it’s actually 0.5 degrees each way. We measured it with our camber gauge.
 

fmoua916

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I should correct the statement. It provides 1 degree of camber adjustment range. So it’s actually 0.5 degrees each way. We measured it with our camber gauge.
I see. I was only able to add -0.2 on driver side and -0.3 degrees on passenger side when I pushed mine all th way inward
 


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Total time for the front is about 1 hour and rear is 10 minutes.
Are these your pro shop times or joe blow times? I can see a lot of people undertaking this job and spending 8 hours lol is there any part of the job that could cause a hang up for someone doing this in their garage at home?
 

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Would love to see a before and after with these springs! What’s the drop?
 
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spoonsportsusa

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Are these your pro shop times or joe blow times? I can see a lot of people undertaking this job and spending 8 hours lol is there any part of the job that could cause a hang up for someone doing this in their garage at home?
It’s how long it took us after doing it a few times. It should take a qualified mechanic at least 3 hours the first time and I can see people in their garage spending over 5 hours. But if you can’t do the rear under an hour you probably shouldn’t even try the front.
 


 


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