using a "quickjack 7000" on a CTR

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stevescivic

stevescivic

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thanks everyone for your responses! I was super irritated by the fact that the 7000 SLX couldn't reach the civic's jack points but I guess I could still raise the car up just forward of the rear lift point without issue.

I guess the next question is when I AM lifting the car that I have the rubber blocks under the front lift point and then I'll have to get a pinch weld block for the straight piece of metal that spans the length of the car that then becomes the rear lift point? Maybe I'll post a pic to better describe what I mean. I'm 99% sure that is what people is lifting on and why the pinch weld block is so important so as to not "bend" the metal on the car.
 

baldheadracing

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I only use the pinch weld block in the back when changing oil - to tilt the car front/rear. Otherwise I use the tall rubber blocks everywhere.
 

lawl

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*Walks into thread. Realizes this isn't some sort of security device. Feels misled, but quickly exits thread to avoid embarassment*
better you thought it was a security device rather than some kind of... extracurricular one like I did.
 


lawl

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SLX or EXT? I'm assuming SLX, as the EXT should be long enough to get at both factory pinch-weld jacking points. With the SLX (I have the 5000SLX, but the 7000SLX is the same), I line up the front block with the factory pinch-weld jacking position and the rear block will fit just in front of the rear factory pinch-weld jacking position. There is a lot less weight in the back so there is no issue. If you don't like that, then QuickJack sells extensions that fit on top of the SLX jacks to get EXT lengths, but I'm not sure if there is enough clearance for those.

As an aside, note that QuickJack's optional pinch-weld blocks do not have a wide enough slot to clear the wider "base" of the Honda factory pinch-weld jacking positions.
so the EXT is the CORRECT one for this car, no modifications needed right?
 

baldheadracing

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toddrhodes

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Thinking about picking this up from Costco.com, the price is right and reading through here, the SLX can work just fine. If I do get one, should I get both the pinch weld blocks and the tall blocks off the quickjack site? Seeing some conflicting info and just curious.
 

toddrhodes

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Oh, well alright then! I'll grab one and when it gets here, see if I need anything else. Thanks!

Edit: guess I could have just RTFWS:

  • Complete package includes (2) ea. jack frame assemblies; (2) ea. quick-connect hydraulic hose sets; (2) ea. positioning handles; (4) ea. short rubber lifting blocks; (4) ea. tall rubber lifting blocks; (1) mini 110-volt hydraulic power unit with pendant control.
 


RedGiant217

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First time I jacked the car up, I did it from the exposed metal in the middle, between the two pinch welds. Opted to never do that again, but it didn't seem to cause any damage either.
My wife's mazda 3 doesn't even have pinch welds. :dunno:

Only saying this to reinforce the idea that having most of the weight on the front welds and just resting in front of the rear ones should be fine.
 

MGZ

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I don't have a Type R, but have recently been using my quickjack (also bought from Costco) to do quite a bit of work on my coupe. I went the full nine yards and bought the extension frames and pinch weld blocks. The extension frames definitely help to properly reach both pinch weld spots, though I did have some issues with the first set I received slotting into the frames properly. Second set fit, but now are pretty jammed in to the frames after use. I have a rubber mallet i'll probably use to get em out at some point when i work on my girlfriend's car.

As someone mentioned, the pinch weld blocks are a bit of a disappointment as the reinforced pinch weld rail doesn't fit between the grooves. I've used them once or twice and they just kinda sink into the top of the split rubber. It holds, and kinda deforms the top of the block, but would love to hear from someone else if this is better or worse than using the standard blocks that are provided. I'm thinking I might use a dremel at some point to take some bits off the rubber block so the rail can sit properly in the groove.
 

CWNole95

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Thinking about picking this up from Costco.com, the price is right and reading through here, the SLX can work just fine. If I do get one, should I get both the pinch weld blocks and the tall blocks off the quickjack site? Seeing some conflicting info and just curious.
Okay, so I’ve got this exact setup. Well, at least I did have this exact setup. You can use the SLX with the Type R, but to be able to properly utilize the pinch welds as the lift points, you’ll need the extension frames from Quickjack as the SLX frames are too short to reach, I purchased the pinch weld blocks from Quickjack, but actually recently sold my Quickjack (a 5000 pound SLX) due to needing to upgrade to a 7000 pound model as my wife traded her Pilot for a Tahoe.

I have both the extension frames and pinch weld blocks for sale if you’re interested. They’re in pristine condition. Please PM me if interested.

FWIW, I love the Quickjack. It makes service work so much better easier and safer.
 

baldheadracing

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baldheadracing, could you take some pictures the next time you jack up the car? I have the 5000slx also. It was for an s2000. Just got a CTR and didn't realize the length of the slx don't exactly match up the factory jacking points.

Guess I could buy the extension but dang $200 bucks for them.
So, hopefully better late than never. My car was on my short (SLX) QuickJack for the past two weeks and here's some pics:

Starting at the front. The QuickJack is going to the factory jack point on the frame rail. I'm stacking a short block on top of a pinch-weld block. (The slot in the pinch-weld block is too narrow to go to the factory jack point. QuickJack also state that stacking blocks is okay.)
Honda Civic 10th gen using a "quickjack 7000" on a CTR frAIMG_20190427_190029


The block deforms. I'm not thrilled with the deformation, but it works. I wouldn't want this deformation on the just the pinch-weld.
Honda Civic 10th gen using a "quickjack 7000" on a CTR frClbIMG_20190427_190054


In the rear, the SLX is not long enough to get to the factory jack point so the pinch-weld block works just fine. The pinch-weld block is on top of a tall block.
Honda Civic 10th gen using a "quickjack 7000" on a CTR rrAIMG_20190427_190015


The rear pinch-weld block is just in front of the factory jack point.
Honda Civic 10th gen using a "quickjack 7000" on a CTR rrClIMG_20190427_190258


Honda Civic 10th gen using a "quickjack 7000" on a CTR frClIMG_20190427_190046


Honda Civic 10th gen using a "quickjack 7000" on a CTR rrBIMG_20190427_190001
 

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I've been keeping an eye on this post, but i guess no one even measured it or got the correct one. You guys used what you had and made it work, which is fine. You can use the extension, but it still doesn't get you the full pinch weld. However, the good thing about having the shorter ones is you can use it on older, shorter cars. I think lots of the new ones are long, unless you're going fiat 500 or a chevy spark, but who works on electric cars? j/k :yes: Hey, they still need brakes, wheels, tires..etc right?
I did the measurements and what we need for the CTR is actually the BL-6000XLT. Look at the spec, this is the longest one per the I & J dimensions. This thing is FINALLLY in stock on the website. It kept getting delayed. It said it was supposed to be released last November 2018, but after 2019, it still says pre-order.
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