MANUAL CARS...RAISED IDLE RPM

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Just wanted to share for those that want the information. I have had my idle rpm set to 1100 for many weeks now and I would recommend it to anyone running an aftermarket rear mount. This alleviated my NVH increase from the aftermarket torque mount upgrade pretty much completely. My car gets to temp quicker...another thing that was a nuisance for me during cold temps is length of warm up time. Idle oil pressure is ensured to be stable this way. Increased engine vacuum in theory will extend engine life due to better piston ring seal. Better fluid pumping throughout the engine (oil water etc). More oil flow to cylinder head and turbo. Easier take offs.

Also can idle the car to creep through flat parking lots with no bucking/ stalling with no throttle....very cool side benefit!
I have never felt the slight stumbling feel (like a light misfire) since programming this way!

I know this obviously decreases fuel economy but the car is rarely at idle during commuting and any other time you would want to be idling this assists with (cool down, warm up, overall temp stabilization and increased oil flow)

Highly suggested (perform at your own risk and not advised whatsoever for auto/cvt equipped vehicle)
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Thanks! for this, what mount are you using?
 
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hasport 62a duro. It pissed me off for a while until I did this. I am trying my best not to feel like Im ruining the class of the car and this is a DRASTIC help in all fronts. There is almost no a/c vibration either. There are so many wins. Its great.
 

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If possible could you screenshot your idle settings just to make sure I get the numbers correct please.
 
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If possible could you screenshot your idle settings just to make sure I get the numbers correct please.
All settings in both rows are 1300 until 170 degrees then from that block on 1100
 


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Oops... that was my last calibration. This is the latest
Honda Civic 10th gen MANUAL CARS...RAISED IDLE RPM 20180706_214347
 

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Could you please help me understand how this lowers vibrations? Am also interested in learning how an increased idea would increase vacuum. Thanks!
 

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Could you please help me understand how this lowers vibrations? Am also interested in learning how an increased idea would increase vacuum. Thanks!
Since the target RPM is higher it doesnt fall as much. The vibration is causing from the rpm drop causing the engine to move.


I might be wrong
 
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Essentially but its more just the resonance that the more solid mounts transmit that are always present just normally absorbed by the stock engine mounts instead of transmitting to the driver. At a higher rpm that resonance is gone. Similar noise/feel like you almost stalled. like a quick buzz or grumble as you pass 900-1000 rpm. You normally will not have this unless you have a solid torque mount on the car. The higher idle eliminates this for those that do.
 
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Could you please help me understand how this lowers vibrations? Am also interested in learning how an increased idea would increase vacuum. Thanks!
A closed throttle plate at higher engine rpm creates more internal vacuum.

To add to this I just checked my catch can 2 days ago after running it 2k miles or so and its bone dry. I dont expect much and will still keep an eye on it but I suspect the higher idle is helping reduce blowby. It literally had nothing in it so far.
 


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This is great news. I hope that more people with solid rear mounts try this out soon!
 

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I have the 27won RMM and am suffering with this problem at my 720rpm it falls like its going to stall at times.

I tried upping it to 900rpm and it has definatly help but during a 2nd gear light load pull, i feel a surge of vibration until 2krpm and then it goes. Same applies for higher gears at low load about 30-40mph..

Why is this? Is there any way to tune this out on flash pro?
 

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I have the 27won RMM and am suffering with this problem at my 720rpm it falls like its going to stall at times.

I tried upping it to 900rpm and it has definatly help but during a 2nd gear light load pull, i feel a surge of vibration until 2krpm and then it goes. Same applies for higher gears at low load about 30-40mph..

Why is this? Is there any way to tune this out on flash pro?
What are your fuel trims at ?
 
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I have the 27won RMM and am suffering with this problem at my 720rpm it falls like its going to stall at times.

I tried upping it to 900rpm and it has definatly help but during a 2nd gear light load pull, i feel a surge of vibration until 2krpm and then it goes. Same applies for higher gears at low load about 30-40mph..

Why is this? Is there any way to tune this out on flash pro?
Is the effect more during deceleration by chance? Around 2300 with no throttle and engine braking this area would buzz occasionally which cant really be tuned out. The idle would have no effect on this. I attributed this to the flywheel being dual mass (a quick tap on the throttle during this area would usually alleviate it)

Different mounts will have different resonance areas so your experiences may be slightly different.
 

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I have the 27won RMM and am suffering with this problem at my 720rpm it falls like its going to stall at times.

I tried upping it to 900rpm and it has definatly help but during a 2nd gear light load pull, i feel a surge of vibration until 2krpm and then it goes. Same applies for higher gears at low load about 30-40mph..

Why is this? Is there any way to tune this out on flash pro?
Engine vibrations will happen, as the OP said, it's a byproduct of your motor mount. My hasport does the same thing around 1700rpms, no way to make it go away other than changing your driving habits. Don't shift until you know the engine won't fall in that rpm range. I did raise my idle speed to 750 from 720 when fully warmed up and it doesn't shake the car at idle with AC on anymore. There is still the vibration at 900-1000rpm but I sometimes let the car idle for a while so I'm not raising it over that. But, that 30 rpm made a bit difference on vibrations and you can't hear the difference in engine speed so double bonus.
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