EX Audio Build: Completed!

sinewave · Jun 19, 2018

thatlilwhiteone said:
So I was messaging the guy I bought the amp from he was really no help at this point Im positive it is an amp issue. He thinks its a problem with the gains or something. Im returning it to him and buying it for 130 more from crutchfield. but as I was messing with the settings for that guy I noticed the rear channel(sub) stopped receiving an input. I switched it to front port and was still showing no signal. So I removed all the plastic to the amp checked connections and still no signal. So then I connected the sub back to the factory amp it wasnt playing at all. The factory amp was a little hot so hopefully it will be fine in the morning. I was looking at that wiring guide and it said that the red wire was negative and the white was positive. I made red positive and white negative because red is always positive and that wiring guide had a few typos in it. IDK if I crossed the wires and it eventually burned the amp out or what but all the other speakers work or receive a signal just the sub is not working. The way I had it wired it was working just fine for about 5 days. Feeling real defeated at this point. I know its not a big deal I can just sum off the mids but I dont know why this shit just randomly happened a few hours ago. Wish I was never fucking around with it for that jackass I bought the amp from. I wouldnt even be having this problem right now. Before I put the aftermarket amp in I changed the sub and I cut the wires I used Red as Positive and White as negative and the sub worked and sounded just fine. So thats the way I did it when I put the aftermarket amp in. Red positive white negative.

My sub is fine it works when I sum it with the front channel.

lol so its my fault I turned the fade all the way to the front. I never noticed that turned the sub off. Ill sleep good tonight. hahaha but im still sending that damn amp back. its hot and humid af here i cant think straight thats my story and im sticking to it.

Sounds like bad pot on the gain of hr amoncausing static. Glad you got it figured out, lol, sounds frustrating.

thatlilwhiteone · Jun 22, 2018

I put in the new amp I ordered and its making the same static noise. Maybe that is just what this amp does? idk its annoying either way.

sinewave · Jun 22, 2018

What kind of amp is it?

thatlilwhiteone · Jun 23, 2018

sinewave said:
What kind of amp is it?

audio control d4800. I think its coming from the summing that the amp does to the tweeters and mids. I was able to get it down to an respectable level.

sinewave · Jun 23, 2018

thatlilwhiteone said:
audio control d4800. I think its coming from the summing that the amp does to the tweeters and mids. I was able to get it down to an respectable level.

And AC support can’t help? That is surprising they are generally pretty good. I was thinking a couple of things you could try is to place a 4ohm resister in-line with the high level input to see if the static is a result of a load imbalance. Another idea is use a simple line out converter (high to low) and seeing it goes away.

thatlilwhiteone · Jun 24, 2018

sinewave said:
And AC support can’t help? That is surprising they are generally pretty good. I was thinking a couple of things you could try is to place a 4ohm resister in-line with the high level input to see if the static is a result of a load imbalance. Another idea is use a simple line out converter (high to low) and seeing it goes away.

I think its coming from the summing of the highs and the lows. I can turn the gain up and then turn the summing down and it makes the hissing almost go away. Im going to return the amp and get the lc61200 and give the tweeters their own channel so I dont have to do any summing. Also when I sum the highs and lows, with the provided crossovers for the mids and tweeters, the tweeters get some lows and the mids get some highs and it makes the speakers sound bad. I think that has something to do with the summing too, its pointless to take separate signals then sum them, then passively separate them again. Thats another reason Im going to give the tweets their own channel. Did you have to remove any plastic to run the new speaker wire? I cant see a way to get to the other side.

sinewave · Jun 24, 2018

thatlilwhiteone said:
I think its coming from the summing of the highs and the lows. I can turn the gain up and then turn the summing down and it makes the hissing almost go away. Im going to return the amp and get the lc61200 and give the tweeters their own channel so I dont have to do any summing. Also when I sum the highs and lows, with the provided crossovers for the mids and tweeters, the tweeters get some lows and the mids get some highs and it makes the speakers sound bad. I think that has something to do with the summing too, its pointless to take separate signals then sum them, then passively separate them again. Thats another reason Im going to give the tweets their own channel. Did you have to remove any plastic to run the new speaker wire? I cant see a way to get to the other side.

I was able to run 16agu through the boot, I feed a long plastic zip tie through and pulled it. There were not any molex plugs for the doors

thatlilwhiteone · Jun 24, 2018

Weird problem I was trying to run the speaker wire through the doors but I couldn't because I didn't have a long zip tie. I leave to get ziptie car starts like normal. When I get to the place I notice doors wouldn't lock. I didn't think k nothing of it because I had both panles off no door switches etc. When I came out my car would only start with the key fob touching the start button. The interior lights only come one when it is running .steering wheel controls dont work. Keyfob doesn't work no buttons. When I turn on accessory none of the dash lights or screen come on, only when I start it. Other than that the car is perfect .wtf. makese think something got unplugged but what? Smartkey fuse not broke. I think I really fucked something up but I don't know how.

I was messing around mainly on the passenger side before I went and got the zipties.

sinewave · Jun 24, 2018

The doors have a proximity circuit for the key fob. If you doors are unplugged, the circuit is going to throw faults. Mine threw a shit fit when I had the radio out for over a day. I had to drive the car to recalibrate all the Honda sense BS. Get the car back together and then freak out

thatlilwhiteone · Jun 24, 2018

sinewave said:
The doors have a proximity circuit for the key fob. If you doors are unplugged, the circuit is going to throw faults. Mine threw a shit fit when I had the radio out for over a day. I had to drive the car to recalibrate all the Honda sense BS. Get the car back together and then freak out

Bro it is back together. I don't know what Imma do.

Matthyahuw · Jun 24, 2018

you pull the battery for a bit then put it back on to reset the system?

sinewave · Jun 25, 2018

thatlilwhiteone said:
Bro it is back together. I don't know what Imma do.

Check your connections, pull battery and check fuses.

thatlilwhiteone · Jun 25, 2018

Matthyahuw said:
you pull the battery for a bit then put it back on to reset the system?

Thats what Im doing now. Ive disconnected it before but probably for less than 5 min. Im going to wait like an hour this time.

sinewave said:
Check your connections, pull battery and check fuses.

I was looking for a fuse the would control auxiliary? power or something like that and I couldnt find anything. No power at all when the car isnt running and then everything except the steering wheel controls on the left side work when its running. This is so weird. Hopefully disconnecting the battery will fix it. If not I may have to wait until it goes in for service and say they messed something up because it wasnt doing that when I dropped it off.

thatlilwhiteone · Jun 25, 2018

The battery thing did not anything. I took it into the dealer for a little to see if they could fix it but they couldnt. They are fixing the paint on my bumper so they will try to fix it then in 2 weeks. I told them my amp as been on there for a month and she didnt really act like that would be the cause. Hoping its a warranty fix.

himynameisaaron · Jun 25, 2018

Related, kind of unrelated. 2018 Honda Civic SI

I replaced the front speakers with Morel Components and the center with a Sound Ordnance speaker. I'm getting crackling through the tweeters at higher volume. It's not really a frequency thing and the crossovers were set up properly as far as I know.....Ran the wiring that originally went to the woofer to the main input of the crossover....then ran the appropriate wiring from the crossover to the tweeter/woofer. All the wiring is 18 -20 gauge wiring. Good right? Crutchfield said it's a power thing and that getting the Alpine Power Pack would solve it. I got it along with 2 Kicker speaker wire to RCA adapters. All I wanna do is power the front components and the center with the Power Pack.

1) Do I need an LOC and if not how do I adapt the front speaker wiring to the RCA adapters
2) Do I need to run separate power and if not do I just jump onto the Honda Amp power

EX Audio Build: Completed!

sinewave

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