EX-L Items for Lower Models

Ben_J_H said:

Hello.

Long time lurker. First post. You guys have helped me plenty up to this point so it's worth asking here. Thank you.

The rear cover on the shift knob that goes around the trigger. The black one, not the silver on the front. Is that a part you can order, and if so does anyone know the part number. I may have managed to scratch mine up pretty decent getting it off.

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CivicLX2016 said:

Yeah I scratched mine up too, but it's not too noticeable, pretty sure every little part if "purchasable"

I will look tonight unless somebody else finds the part number.

What's your year and model?

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Ben_J_H said:

Thank you. I was looking on Honda part websites but I very well could have been in the wrong area.

I drive a 2017 Civic ex Sedan. I'd imagine all 16-17 automatic are the same however.

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Ben_J_H said:

Thank you. I was looking on Honda part websites but I very well could have been in the wrong area.

I drive a 2017 Civic ex Sedan. I'd imagine all 16-17 automatic are the same however.

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CivicLX2016 said:

You ever consider wrapping the part in black vinyl or plastidipping it?

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Ben_J_H said:

No, but I definitely will after seeing the price. I'll probably pick up some vinyl knowing that I can use the rest elsewhere. If it turns out good, great. Otherwise I'll bite the bullet on the part at a later date.

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hal9000 said:

I'll edit this post as I have time. For now here is a rough break down. I had a very detailed DIY for it but this site shut down for 5 hours over night. Even though I saved a draft after each step, half the post was missing when the site came back up this morning.

Parts needed or recommended..they use a non-hardening loctite so reusing is up to you.
Two bolts for airbag 90134-S6A-A80
One steering wheel bolt 90161-TX4-000

Tools needed:
10mm open wrench(battery)
Phillips Head(fasteners under airbag)
Torx T30(air bag fasteners)
10mm hex bit(steering wheel mounting bolt)
Whichever tool(s) you decide to use for removing the steering wheel bolt.

Time: 45 minutes - 1 hour max

First use the 10mm wrench to disconnect your battery. You're dealing with the airbag so let it sit for 10-15 minutes just to be safe.

Next you'll remove the two T30 fasteners. These hold your airbag in place.They are located inside the holes at the 3 and 9 o'clock position of the steering wheel cover. I would recommend using a magnetized torx bit.

The airbag will now slide forward. It will be connected to three wires so pull slowly. Thankfully there's quite a bit of play in the wires. You should see the two main airbag connectors. One green and one gray. The third wire(black) is for your horn. I removed this first. Then both airbag connectors.

Here is a picture of the two connectors. At the top of each connector you'll see a small "band" of white. These are the retaining tabs. Pull back horizontally on the white tabs and each connector will slide off horizontally. Once all three wires are off set the airbag down(horn-pad side up!) on the ground and out of the way. I placed some electrical tape over each connector just to be safe. You'll see in the upper part of the picture a white 20 pin connector with a black and red wire entering it. Disconnect this as its attached to the clock spring.

Next is the fun part. Getting the steering wheel bolt off. Honda used to use a nut. Very simple to get off. Recently they've been switching to these bolts. Not as easy.

I used a 10mm hex bit on my 1/2" impact gun. Popped it off quickly. Not sure this could be done without at least a breaker bar. Maybe I'm just old but that sucker was on there. A positive is that once the bolt is removed the steering wheel simply falls off...as in literally fell on my lap! No steering wheel puller needed. You can see to the left of the steering column(9 o'clock) a small white circle. That's a small "pilot" post for putting the wheel back on in the correct position. No need to try centering the wheel back on going spline by spline. The wheel can only go back on in that position. Also means little to worry about with the clock spring. It's also nice you don't have to remove the large cover surrounding the signal/wiper stalks.

You're pretty much out of the woods once you get that bolt off. All that's left is transfering the stuff to the new steering wheel. Start by removing the four fasteners holding the two silver trim pieces on. Two on each side.

Next remove the fastener securing the ground.

You'll then remove the back cover of the steering wheel. There are two large black tabs insde the wheel. Press in on these while pulling on the cover. It will slide off but will still be connected because of the wiring to the controls.

With the cover loose you can undo both control connectors. There will be one blue and one white. Side shot of blue connector still attached.

Rear cover removed. You can see the wire for the horn and 20 pin connector you removed from the clock spring earlier.

Now you'll remove the silver trim and controls. Go slow and steady. There are no fasteners here. Everything you remove from now on has plastic posts or tabs. Start with the lower piece of silver trim. Pull up on the thinner "upper" parts.

Work your way down around the bottom. I know I said slow and steady but you will have to use some force. The posts are in the wheel pretty snug.

Image of bottom piece removed showing post locations.

Next you'll remove the upper trim. It's one piece going from control to control. It has some flex so you can do one side at a time. Just be careful as it's an expensive part. Start by lifting the two tabs on the inner side of the control unit.

Work your fingers under the trim in this location and lift up and towards the center of the steering wheel.

Picture of upper trim removed.

The only things left to remove are the two control units. The pins on these are angled inwards toward the center of the wheel. Start by unclipping this post located on the rear of the wheel.

Next work your fingers under the part of the unit in the same spot where you started the upper silver trim. Like the trim lift up while pulling in towards the center of the wheel. Then rock the part back and forth while lifting up. When the posts get far enough out you'll pull the unit out toward the wheel grip. These guys are in there snug! You can see the angle of the posts and holes.

Everything off the wheel.

Parts transferred to the new wheel.

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jetsko84 said:

Some folks are saying that installing this will void the Airbag warranty. Any truth to this?

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hal9000 said:

So the shift knob went as expected..very easy.

Tools needed:
Phillips head
Thumbnails

Time 10-15 minutes

On the select lever there's a silver trim ring between the knob and the boot. On the ring are two raised indicators. If viewed from above they'd be in the 3 and 9 o'clock position.

Directly below these indicators hidden inside the boot are two tabs on the base of the knob. These basically hold the silver trim ring up.

Feel through the boot and locate the two tabs. Pinch both tabs with one hand while pressing down on the trim ring with your other hand. The trim ring will slide down. You can see in the first picture how the trim ring is separated. The bottom mounting screw is now exposed.

Next you're going to remove the black plastic cover plate from the front of the knob. It's held by two tabs located near the bottom of the cover. This picture shows the location of the tabs. This is where you'll want to place your thumbnails.

Insert a thumbnail on each side between the cover and the knob. Gently push forward towards the dash.The cover will pop off. The top mounting screw is now exposed. Here's a shot of the tabs inside the cover as well as the two mounting screw holes on the knob.

I used a stubby Phillips head to remove the two screws holding the knob on. Once the screws are removed the knob will simply slide up and off.

From this point everything is basically the reverse.
Add new knob and reinsert screws.
Pop plastic cover back on.
Slide silver trim ring up until it clicks in place.

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brvndxn88 said:

Also is the button on the knob needed if I installed an aftermarket knob with no button?

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NeoDragons said:

the button on the knob disengages the lock so you can move the lever from park to drive. they sell adapters that let you use manual shift knobs, so instead of pressing a button you press down on the entire knob to shift

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