Photos of Touring Amp

himynameisaaron said:

Which is the output and which is input?

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The input is digital all the way on the right. the output is the one on the far left.

Totally forgot to post pics:
Pic 1 and 2: Without and with Grill
Pic 3: Amp and Lc2i

I've gone a got my Audiosn Bit Nove this week and planning to combine ALL input (Front-Rear-Centre, no sub in the UK) is the wiring diagram correct for UK Civics?? This is going to be a lengthy install starting with deadening then gradually working my way up to a full 3kw install, this will probably take me well into next year!!

leaat23 said:

I've gone a got my Audiosn Bit Nove this week and planning to combine ALL input (Front-Rear-Centre, no sub in the UK) is the wiring diagram correct for UK Civics?? This is going to be a lengthy install starting with deadening then gradually working my way up to a full 3kw install, this will probably take me well into next year!!

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I can't use the Audison Bit Nove ... My car has 10 channels ...

so on another post i read about people just using the factory sub wire to run into the amp as high input. would this work or do you still have to run a converter to get RCAs?

Domsdad324 said:

so on another post i read about people just using the factory sub wire to run into the amp as high input. would this work or do you still have to run a converter to get RCAs?

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This depends on the aftermarket amplifier for your aftermarket sub.
The aftermarket amplifier must be equipped with HIGH INPUT to take the signal from your OEM sub.
Keep in mind, the OEM sub is low pass Xover somewhere between 50-100 hz, so you'll lose top end.
I ran a 2 channel line-output-converter from the sub AND the rear speaker to get the mid-bass I desired.

leaat23 said:

I've gone a got my Audiosn Bit Nove this week and planning to combine ALL input (Front-Rear-Centre, no sub in the UK) is the wiring diagram correct for UK Civics?? This is going to be a lengthy install starting with deadening then gradually working my way up to a full 3kw install, this will probably take me well into next year!!

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I just re-read your post, and realized I didn't see the 3kw part!

Is this 3kw including the full range speakers or 3kw just for the sub?!
I'm currently running a db drive A7 2500.1 and its wrecking havoc to my power supply.
(Its funny cuz db drive wattage ratings are horrible and I'm probably only pushing about 1kw)
What do you have planned to compensate for volt drop?
I've got 0 gauge copper clad aluminum from OEM front battery to a kinetik HD 2000 in the rear.
Its still not enough. I think I may have to run oxygen free copper.
ALL THIS COSTS SOOOOOOO MUCH !!!!!

peterletran said:

This depends on the aftermarket amplifier for your aftermarket sub.
The aftermarket amplifier must be equipped with HIGH INPUT to take the signal from your OEM sub.
Keep in mind, the OEM sub is low pass Xover somewhere between 50-100 hz, so you'll lose top end.
I ran a 2 channel line-output-converter from the sub AND the rear speaker to get the mid-bass I desired.

Click to expand...

So what your saying is my best bet is to run an in-line converter from the rear speakers to get low inputs to the amp?

2kW into sundown sub and the rest into front and possibly a rear stage. I have used 2 batteries on my previous car with a split charge system. Oversized 0 awg cable and most importantly a good earth . OFC will make no or very little difference, your best bet is split charge, one battery under the bonnet mainly for charging and a second battery in the boot, this is my intention when I get round to it and yes, it does cost a fortune for good equipment, I have all my kit from my previous install and have had to buy new deadening for the Civic.

My previous car was an Impreza with a very strong electrical system, the Civic on the other hand may not be as capable and this is worrying me a little.

Domsdad324 said:

So what your saying is my best bet is to run an in-line converter from the rear speakers to get low inputs to the amp?

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That's not exactly what I'm saying. Some amplifiers have the line-output-converters built-in. So you might not need it.
You can find the standalone converters on amazon prime for less than $15.
In my opinion, it is cleaner to run a system without the standalone LOC, but it doesn't hurt to have one in your toolbox.
My db drive a7 2500.1 does NOT have high speaker level inputs, so I had to use a LOC.

leaat23 said:

2kW into sundown sub and the rest into front and possibly a rear stage. I have used 2 batteries on my previous car with a split charge system. Oversized 0 awg cable and most importantly a good earth . OFC will make no or very little difference, your best bet is split charge, one battery under the bonnet mainly for charging and a second battery in the boot, this is my intention when I get round to it and yes, it does cost a fortune for good equipment, I have all my kit from my previous install and have had to buy new deadening for the Civic.

My previous car was an Impreza with a very strong electrical system, the Civic on the other hand may not be as capable and this is worrying me a little.

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I wish I could afford those true 2kw amplifiers. I'm sure a pair db drive k7 12" can handle the pounding.
I've already reinforced the box with some threaded re-bar and sealed the inside with whatever glue I could find.
(I mean ... the "pre-fab-cheap" enclosure is over 5 years old and has been through a ton of torture.)
As of right now, my Civic runs at 14.4 volts with the system playing at a "reasonable" level.
(Keep in mind, Civic charging system sits at avg. 13 volts with headlights off.)
With headlights on, charging system will stay at avg. 14.1 volts.
But at full tilt, the system could pull voltages down to as low as 13 volts.
Sitting at lights or at idle, the alternator doesn't churn out very much power, but on the freeway cruising, no issues.

Completely random but where are you guys tuning your power wires through your firewall? Want to keep it as clean as possible

Domsdad324 said:

Completely random but where are you guys tuning your power wires through your firewall? Want to keep it as clean as possible

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I ran mine across the firewall to the passenger side. There's a spot near the alternator. Its still highly visible in the engine bay though. I need to get some loom.

How are you guys orienting your subs. I just did a trade with my buddy and got a solobaric 15. Not exactly what I wanted but it’s basicaly a free system. It’s in a potted box so if I face it back out the truck I feel that I’ll get more rattle. If I face it towards the seats will I get more feel?

And also where are you hooking up your remote wires at

Domsdad324 said:

How are you guys orienting your subs. I just did a trade with my buddy and got a solobaric 15. Not exactly what I wanted but it’s basicaly a free system. It’s in a potted box so if I face it back out the truck I feel that I’ll get more rattle. If I face it towards the seats will I get more feel?

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In my coupe, I have my dual 12" ported enclosure rear facing.
In my experience, rear facing gives a little more output into the cabin when windows are open, and
front facing sometimes has a little more response (or less "boominess").
My trunk doesn't really rattle at full tilt. Keep in mind I'm probably playing at around 130 db.
I feel more impact while rear facing rather than forward facing.
Supposedly, if you have a hatch, upfacing subs, rear facing ports gives the most output.
Years ago, I had a co-worker run dual 18" digital design 9500 series subs up-facing with three 4" diameter ports into the hatch door.
It was absolutely insane and difficult to breathe during long bass notes and the kick punches were heart stopping.

Domsdad324 said:

And also where are you hooking up your remote wires at

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I used an "add-a-circuit" fuse tap plugged into a circuit that is typically off while the engine is off.
I'm fairly certain I probably tapped it into the ECU circuit because ECU is usually off even while ACC is on.
This, I ran to the battery isolator and the amp (as well as my air-ride suspension).