How does my planned set up look?

frankdboss

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Honda Civic 10th gen How does my planned set up look? upload_2018-3-20_14-34-35


I am planning on buying all of these for a budget upgrade to the sound... I may eventually get a Phoenix HU if I still want to continue improving the sound. I have an LX so I don't want to drill holes for separate tweeters. I am not looking to rattle the neighborhood but I do want a little bit of oomph in my ride. I also want to place the mini sub under my driver seat so do you guys know if this one is flush with the seat?

Is it worth it to spend ~250 for this upgrade?
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I am planning on buying all of these for a budget upgrade to the sound... I may eventually get a Phoenix HU if I still want to continue improving the sound. I have an LX so I don't want to drill holes for separate tweeters. I am not looking to rattle the neighborhood but I do want a little bit of oomph in my ride. I also want to place the mini sub under my driver seat so do you guys know if this one is flush with the seat?

Is it worth it to spend ~250 for this upgrade?
You don't have to drill holes for the tweeters if you buy the sail panels with tweeter mounts for a touring trim. I paid $19 for a pair.
 
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frankdboss

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You don't have to drill holes for the tweeters if you buy the sail panels with tweeter mounts for a touring trim. I paid $19 for a pair.
Do you happen to have a link to those? Also, does separating the tweeter and speaker have a huge effect on the sound? Thanks for the reply!!
 

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I am planning on buying all of these for a budget upgrade to the sound... I may eventually get a Phoenix HU if I still want to continue improving the sound. I have an LX so I don't want to drill holes for separate tweeters. I am not looking to rattle the neighborhood but I do want a little bit of oomph in my ride. I also want to place the mini sub under my driver seat so do you guys know if this one is flush with the seat?

Is it worth it to spend ~250 for this upgrade?
Hey there, unless your sub has a built-in LOC, you'll still be missing most/all of the bass you're actively attempting to establish. Read up on the Honda 'bass-rolloff' situation. Basically Honda's DSP is designed to lower the level of all lower notes as the volume goes up, so even with a sub, you'll be missing the lower notes at any substantial volume.

Add a LC2i, or equivalent, and you'll get most of the way there. That's what I've done, but to be honest, I've just listened to my system after going deep into the settings (directions available on this forum) to temporarily turn off the DSP - make it 'flat' - and the difference is STILL substantial! In other words, you gotta get an LOC to get most of the way there, but the real solution is a permanent DSP flat option (not available via Honda...yet) or a different HU (Phoenix Radio, for ex.).

Just my .02
 
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frankdboss

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Hey there, unless your sub has a built-in LOC, you'll still be missing most/all of the bass you're actively attempting to establish. Read up on the Honda 'bass-rolloff' situation. Basically Honda's DSP is designed to lower the level of all lower notes as the volume goes up, so even with a sub, you'll be missing the lower notes at any substantial volume.

Add a LC2i, or equivalent, and you'll get most of the way there. That's what I've done, but to be honest, I've just listened to my system after going deep into the settings (directions available on this forum) to temporarily turn off the DSP - make it 'flat' - and the difference is STILL substantial! In other words, you gotta get an LOC to get most of the way there, but the real solution is a permanent DSP flat option (not available via Honda...yet) or a different HU (Phoenix Radio, for ex.).

Just my .02
My plan is to eventually replace the head unit with a Phoenix once I have a bit of a larger budget. How difficult is it to add an LC2i and is it easy to wire/hide it from view? It sucks that there is a bass roll off at higher volumes. :banghead:
 


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Do you happen to have a link to those? Also, does separating the tweeter and speaker have a huge effect on the sound? Thanks for the reply!!
I bought through the Honda estore and were delivered to my dealership. Free shipping
https://estore.honda.com/honda/parts/select-your-honda.asp
I don't know what model you have, but search for the parts from a touring or sport touring, front pillar garnish.
I think seperates sound better.
 

Exotzs

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Hey there, unless your sub has a built-in LOC, you'll still be missing most/all of the bass you're actively attempting to establish. Read up on the Honda 'bass-rolloff' situation. Basically Honda's DSP is designed to lower the level of all lower notes as the volume goes up, so even with a sub, you'll be missing the lower notes at any substantial volume.

Add a LC2i, or equivalent, and you'll get most of the way there. That's what I've done, but to be honest, I've just listened to my system after going deep into the settings (directions available on this forum) to temporarily turn off the DSP - make it 'flat' - and the difference is STILL substantial! In other words, you gotta get an LOC to get most of the way there, but the real solution is a permanent DSP flat option (not available via Honda...yet) or a different HU (Phoenix Radio, for ex.).

Just my .02
Do you know if installing an aftermarket DSP and amp will cause any loss of any functions from the headunit?
 

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Do you know if installing an aftermarket DSP and amp will cause any loss of any functions from the headunit?
It shouldn't, it is connected from the speaker outputs typically.
 

Exotzs

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It shouldn't, it is connected from the speaker outputs typically.
Gotcha. I was only worried cause of these threads
https://www.civicx.com/threads/after-market-dsp.4324/
https://www.civicx.com/threads/tour...output-but-some-features-are-in-the-amp.2714/

hybrd81 mentions about using a digital SPDIF to connect to for his DSP and then Josby responds by linking his thread on how that digital SPDIF output is also responsible for SVC, audio settings, and mute functions. I take it that connecting to the speaker outputs would dodge this problem?
 

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Don’t forget the power cables. Make sure you get 100% true copper.
 


UnknownCTR

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Gotcha. I was only worried cause of these threads
https://www.civicx.com/threads/after-market-dsp.4324/
https://www.civicx.com/threads/tour...output-but-some-features-are-in-the-amp.2714/

hybrd81 mentions about using a digital SPDIF to connect to for his DSP and then Josby responds by linking his thread on how that digital SPDIF output is also responsible for SVC, audio settings, and mute functions. I take it that connecting to the speaker outputs would dodge this problem?
Those threads are about the premium audio systems from what I read. I'm not sure if the speaker level outputs totally fix it, but it has to be better sounding. I have the simple 4 speaker system that I'm gradually upgrading. I have a Audio Control LC6i LOC, 2 amps and a sub still to install. Eventually, when more compatible HU's become available I will upgrade the factory HU.
 

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What brand and part number are the speaker brackets - do they fit 100% like the stock ones?
 

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If you do not have an amped HU, then you won't have too much roll off. However it is good practice to use a LOC for a sub. Honestly, I would recommend saving a little more and buying the Cerwin Vega powered 10" sub. Myself, and a bunch of other people on here, have it, and it sounds great. Worth the few extra bucks. You can always add the sub in after you upgrade the other speakers. However, if you are leaving the stock HU for now, you won't hear much different by just upgrading the speakers. You need to amp them or upgrade the HU.

I also concur with buying the tweeter sails. I did that in my 13 Accord Sport and it gives it a nice clean look.
 

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What brand and part number are the speaker brackets - do they fit 100% like the stock ones?
Are you referring to the sail panels for the tweeters? If so, OEM parts that are a direct fit from the Hatch Sport Touring.
Part # 76220-TGG-A11 and
76270-TGG-A11.
 
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Why 3 way speakers? Always thought that was a gimmick... make sure they are very sensitive and don't require tons of power. The JBL GTZ-6 are highly rated and more sensitive than those RFs
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