whats max safe torque?Power is not the problem. Torque is. We've done the research.
they wont say that because then everyone can hold them reliable. plus it isnt a set number. its different for each car and how each driver has driven it. although i have seen people run 285 torque for some time now. just do some research and see what people are running. im sure it wont be able to hit 300 thoughwhats max safe torque?
This is an old thread, I know. I am particularly interested in what you said in bold. Who makes tougher pieces that make up the cones and stronger belts? I'm interested in this and would like to follow up on it, outside of this forum. Thanks!I wonder if there'll be aftermarket parts for the CVT folks.
I've replaced belts, clutches, variators/weights, and springs in the CVT in my itty bitty GY6-clone powered buggy a bunch of times. This is the first time I've seen the inside of a Civic one and it's looks about the same. They make tougher pieces that make up the 'cones' on those and stronger belts, though those belts tend to be more brittle and less ductle and tough so if they go... they don't slip... they break.
What I was talking about to was in reference to a GY6. Unfortunately I don't know of any aftermarket that exists for out CVTs. They really are simple contraptions, which is ashamed. A broken belt in a GY6 is a .5-1 hour fix that takes $10 and either a replacement gasket or tube of RTV to seal it (I just use RTV)... but in a car, it seems like it warrants replacing it outright which is crazy to me. I've modded the CVT a couple times with regard to springs/weights and effectively rebuilt it in about 1-2 hours when it ate a belt.This is an old thread, I know. I am particularly interested in what you said in bold. Who makes tougher pieces that make up the cones and stronger belts? I'm interested in this and would like to follow up on it, outside of this forum. Thanks!
What I was talking about to was in reference to a GY6. Unfortunately I don't know of any aftermarket that exists for out CVTs. They really are simple contraptions, which is ashamed. A broken belt in a GY6 is a .5-1 hour fix that takes $10 and either a replacement gasket or tube of RTV to seal it (I just use RTV)... but in a car, it seems like it warrants replacing it outright which is crazy to me. I've modded the CVT a couple times with regard to springs/weights and effectively rebuilt it in about 1-2 hours when it ate a belt.
I don't know a lot about the specific materials... but I know belts themselves, they have corded rubber belts and Kevlar belts. I know rubber ones tend to shred and will slip but not wear the variator/clutch surface so much. The Kevlar provide a firmer less... well... rubber bandy power delivery and don't really slip under heavy load. They wear the cheaper aluminum parts most come with stock (they're pretty much all mass produced clones of a old Honda GY6 from Asia) and that aluminum gets worn. If the Kevlar belts breaks, it can be pretty dramatic. All I run is rubber belts in my GY6 powered buggy... and always keep a spare on hand. I'd rather break a rubber belt, or have it stretch and shred than have to replace a clutch or variator. If your question was related to GY6s... Buggymasters is the forum to check out and where I got my start when I got my current one for $300, not running but in seemingly new shape about 6 years ago. Other than the CVT, I've replaced it's cylinder, rings and swapped cams... and I still ride it out to fishing holes all the time. It beats walking... and I can still be like a kid in a grown up go kart.
You will be fine with the Base Tunes.I am looking at getting a PRL SRI and Vit's Ktuner setup. No other planned mods for performance. Just wondering how safe my CVT in my 18 Hatch Sport will be or if I am murdering it by adding power.
I mean hold brake and gas to spool up stationary, then let go of brake to launch. Don't do that. Slamming gas off the line isn't doing you any favors but also won't melt anything.You mean floor it from a dead stop?