2017 CTR sound system

Nemesis724

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Went down the basement last night and found this 10 year old (I used this setup in my Subaru WRX before) Enclosure with Dual Alpine Type-E 12" Subs and a Kenwood KAC-7202 Amplifier (920 watts and 460 RMS) so about 230 watts RMS per woofer (not bad IMO). I am thinking of installing this to my CTR. At least there won't be no need to spend $$$ on new subs/amp. Of course The only way to get this to work with the stock radio/navi is to use an Audiocontrol LC2i. It needs 12 volts from an accessory socket to power up and unfortunately the only one inside our cars is the one near the shifter. Tomorrow I will try to take those panels out to see how hard they will come off to get behind the accessory socket. Today I removed all trunk panels and also the panel beneath the C pillar (where the rear seatbelt is resting). I noticed on the C pillar there is a speaker (look like tweeter to me), This is where I'm probably going to tap my LC2i (speaker input). If if doesn't sound good, then I will remove it and move it to the rear door speaker speakers instead. What I'm doing is I'm basically studying on how to carefully remove these panels and putting them back together without breaking. SO when it's time for installation, everything is a piece of cake (No time wasted on how to remove a certain panel). I also noticed there is a couple of body plugs on the engine firewall that I can just poke and run The heavy duty B+ cable for the amp. I found a plug where the hood release cable goes thru inside the driver's fender but rather not mess with it. Anyhow Every time I get a chance to worked on my car today at work, there is always customers that walked in our service. Then I have to stop whatever I'm doing and get back inside the bldg. That's why I was only able to concentrate on the trunk area panel removal only :(.
 

Trey

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Went down the basement last night and found this 10 year old (I used this setup in my Subaru WRX before) Enclosure with Dual Alpine Type-E 12" Subs and a Kenwood KAC-7202 Amplifier (920 watts and 460 RMS) so about 230 watts RMS per woofer (not bad IMO). I am thinking of installing this to my CTR. At least there won't be no need to spend $$$ on new subs/amp. Of course The only way to get this to work with the stock radio/navi is to use an Audiocontrol LC2i. It needs 12 volts from an accessory socket to power up and unfortunately the only one inside our cars is the one near the shifter. Tomorrow I will try to take those panels out to see how hard they will come off to get behind the accessory socket. Today I removed all trunk panels and also the panel beneath the C pillar (where the rear seatbelt is resting). I noticed on the C pillar there is a speaker (look like tweeter to me), This is where I'm probably going to tap my LC2i (speaker input). If if doesn't sound good, then I will remove it and move it to the rear door speaker speakers instead. What I'm doing is I'm basically studying on how to carefully remove these panels and putting them back together without breaking. SO when it's time for installation, everything is a piece of cake (No time wasted on how to remove a certain panel). I also noticed there is a couple of body plugs on the engine firewall that I can just poke and run The heavy duty B+ cable for the amp. I found a plug where the hood release cable goes thru inside the driver's fender but rather not mess with it. Anyhow Every time I get a chance to worked on my car today at work, there is always customers that walked in our service. Then I have to stop whatever I'm doing and get back inside the bldg. That's why I was only able to concentrate on the trunk area panel removal only :(.
You need to tap your sub for the LC2i if you are planning to run a sub in your car. The door speakers are not full range speakers.

Also, the LC2i has signal sensing so no need to run a 12v turn on. Just battery and ground.

If you want to run an amp/ amps for all your speakers then you need to defeat the factory dsp with something like the JL audio Fix 82 and TwK 88 wired into the outputs of the factory amp.

There are a lot of threads here explaining what to do.
 
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Nemesis724

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So just for clarification. Tap the factory sub woofer speaker wire for L+ L- R+ R- speaker input of the LC2i?

If it has sensing then I'll just get power and ground from my aftermarket amp wiring kit (B+ and ground). I did not know this and was worried about draining my battery (you know what I mean). Thank you

No I do not want to run amp to all my speakers. The only amp I want to run is the one to be used for the Dual Alpine Woofers.
 

CincyTypeR

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When browsing a website like crutchfield what vehicle are you selecting to help with speaker choices?
 


Stewminator

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Just finished the install of the Rockford Fosgate PBR300X1 amp and PEQ remote and I have to say I'm extremely satisfied. I swapped out the stock sub with a Rockford Fosgate P3SD48 P3 Punch a few weeks ago, and although it was a little cleaner, there wasn't much ddifference. The stock amp just doesn't give enough power to it. With the new amp it makes that P3 hit. It hits hard enough where it gets your heart pumping but not to the point where it's rattling the car. Perfect for what I was looking for. Used 10 gauge power wire through the hood release, stock sub wires to the high level inputs, thus eliminating a need for a remote wire, and 12 gauge speaker wire to send to the sub.

Honda Civic 10th gen 2017 CTR sound system 20171005_171108


Honda Civic 10th gen 2017 CTR sound system 20171005_202750


Honda Civic 10th gen 2017 CTR sound system 20171005_173952


Honda Civic 10th gen 2017 CTR sound system 20171005_165854


Honda Civic 10th gen 2017 CTR sound system 20171005_170752


Honda Civic 10th gen 2017 CTR sound system 20171005_193715


Honda Civic 10th gen 2017 CTR sound system 20171005_165822


Honda Civic 10th gen 2017 CTR sound system 20171005_183502


Honda Civic 10th gen 2017 CTR sound system 20171005_202742


Honda Civic 10th gen 2017 CTR sound system 20171005_165937
 

RP2000R

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Nice write up!
It sounds good in the stock enclosure?
Hoping to do the same thing but keep the stock plastic box.
 


typemismatch

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Anyone using a sub other than the RF?
 

Trey

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So just for clarification. Tap the factory sub woofer speaker wire for L+ L- R+ R- speaker input of the LC2i?

If it has sensing then I'll just get power and ground from my aftermarket amp wiring kit (B+ and ground). I did not know this and was worried about draining my battery (you know what I mean). Thank you

No I do not want to run amp to all my speakers. The only amp I want to run is the one to be used for the Dual Alpine Woofers.
Correct. Here is a diagram for a mono sub connected to the Lc2i.

Honda Civic 10th gen 2017 CTR sound system 68418


Basic diagram:

Honda Civic 10th gen 2017 CTR sound system upload_2017-10-6_10-50-27
 

17CivicTypeR_Brian

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Sorry- where are you guys picking up your remote wire?
 

17CivicTypeR_Brian

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Sorry- where are you guys picking up your remote wire?
Sponsored

 


 


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