2016 Civic LX Kenwood Audio Receiver Install

imccly89

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Hey all, first time poster here. I haven't swapped out the stereo yet, but this thread will be very helpful when I do, so thank you.

i want to know if the 3 backup camera multi view angles still work??
The different views are generated by the camera itself. When the camera receives a signal on the CAMERA_BIT0 or CAMERA_BIT1 lines from the factory harness, it modifies the signal. It's not a 12V signal, though. I think it's like 4V. With no signal on either, you get the normal view.
I wanted to change views as well, so I did a little research. It turns out that the default camera state is the wide angle fisheye view. Those of you with a replacement head unit know this. In order to get the normal and top down views, you need to apply +8 V to CAMERA_BIT0 and CAMERA_BIT1 respectively. The easiest way to do that would be to have a resistor divider from the +12 V source for the backup camera and a single pole triple throw switch.

I haven't verified this yet, but it should only require two resistors, some shrink tubing (around the resistors and their leads), some wire, and a switch. I made the diagram below to help illustrate this plan. If any of you want to give it a shot (at your own risk), please report back!

Honda Civic 10th gen 2016 Civic LX Kenwood Audio Receiver Install Honda Reverse Camera View


Source:
http://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/.../SC/SYS/C002991_enu/web/html/C002991_enu.html

Link to my diagram if it doesn't show up in the post:
http://i.imgur.com/UiG5rme.jpg

Good luck!

Edit: Cleaned up the link urls
 

spanky34

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Hey all, first time poster here. I haven't swapped out the stereo yet, but this thread will be very helpful when I do, so thank you.





I wanted to change views as well, so I did a little research. It turns out that the default camera state is the wide angle fisheye view. Those of you with a replacement head unit know this. In order to get the normal and top down views, you need to apply +8 V to CAMERA_BIT0 and CAMERA_BIT1 respectively. The easiest way to do that would be to have a resistor divider from the +12 V source for the backup camera and a single pole triple throw switch.

I haven't verified this yet, but it should only require two resistors, some shrink tubing (around the resistors and their leads), some wire, and a switch. I made the diagram below to help illustrate this plan. If any of you want to give it a shot (at your own risk), please report back!

Honda Reverse Camera View.png


Source:
http://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/.../SC/SYS/C002991_enu/web/html/C002991_enu.html

Link to my diagram if it doesn't show up in the post:
http://i.imgur.com/UiG5rme.jpg

Good luck!

Edit: Cleaned up the link urls
I'm about to pull out my head unit to try and clean up my install a bit and this is super tempting to try.
 

compcrasher86

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Hey all, first time poster here. I haven't swapped out the stereo yet, but this thread will be very helpful when I do, so thank you.





I wanted to change views as well, so I did a little research. It turns out that the default camera state is the wide angle fisheye view. Those of you with a replacement head unit know this. In order to get the normal and top down views, you need to apply +8 V to CAMERA_BIT0 and CAMERA_BIT1 respectively. The easiest way to do that would be to have a resistor divider from the +12 V source for the backup camera and a single pole triple throw switch.

I haven't verified this yet, but it should only require two resistors, some shrink tubing (around the resistors and their leads), some wire, and a switch. I made the diagram below to help illustrate this plan. If any of you want to give it a shot (at your own risk), please report back!

Source:
http://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/.../SC/SYS/C002991_enu/web/html/C002991_enu.html

Link to my diagram if it doesn't show up in the post:
http://i.imgur.com/UiG5rme.jpg

Good luck!

Edit: Cleaned up the link urls
EE here. I like your idea. I'd probably substitute a 7808 8v voltage regulator for the resistors. Would clean up the packaging a bit and adjust for dynamic input voltage (could vary from 11-14V depending on battery charge, alternator load, temperature, etc) and maintain a nice steady 8v to the camera bit lines. Could also use a single pole double throw switch. Generally they have a center position (off) and up/down as your two throws. If I go aftermarket I'll give this a go, thanks for pulling the logic chart :)
 

imccly89

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EE here. I like your idea. I'd probably substitute a 7808 8v voltage regulator for the resistors. Would clean up the packaging a bit and adjust for dynamic input voltage (could vary from 11-14V depending on battery charge, alternator load, temperature, etc) and maintain a nice steady 8v to the camera bit lines. Could also use a single pole double throw switch. Generally they have a center position (off) and up/down as your two throws. If I go aftermarket I'll give this a go, thanks for pulling the logic chart :)
Haha, EE here as well :thumbsup: I know resistor dividers aren't very elegant, but I thought it would be best since it's really cheap and it's easy to assemble series resistors. The 7808 would probably be more efficient, but you'd also need to add shunt caps at the input and output. And you'd want to enclose that circuit somehow. Definitely possible, but less straightforward. I specified using Camera VCC and Camera GND so that the resistor divider would only be drawing current when the backup camera is enabled (I believe that is how Camera VCC works...correct me if I'm wrong). With the 1k and 2k resistors in my example, the resistors would only dissipate 48 mW (P = V^2/R = 12^2/3000 = 0.048 W) and only when the camera is on. I think that's pretty reasonable and you could choose higher resistors like 5k and 10k for even less current draw.

True, an on-off-on switch would work. SPTT was just the first thing into my mind. Something low profile like this would look nice. You're welcome! Thanks for your input.
 


compcrasher86

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Haha, EE here as well :thumbsup: I know resistor dividers aren't very elegant, but I thought it would be best since it's really cheap and it's easy to assemble series resistors. The 7808 would probably be more efficient, but you'd also need to add shunt caps at the input and output. And you'd want to enclose that circuit somehow. Definitely possible, but less straightforward. I specified using Camera VCC and Camera GND so that the resistor divider would only be drawing current when the backup camera is enabled (I believe that is how Camera VCC works...correct me if I'm wrong). With the 1k and 2k resistors in my example, the resistors would only dissipate 48 mW (P = V^2/R = 12^2/3000 = 0.048 W) and only when the camera is on. I think that's pretty reasonable and you could choose higher resistors like 5k and 10k for even less current draw.

True, an on-off-on switch would work. SPTT was just the first thing into my mind. Something low profile like this would look nice. You're welcome! Thanks for your input.
Good call on the shunt caps, I didn't think too far into the circuit. Still wouldn't be too bad to implement but definitely would want to toss it all in a little project box.

My concern with the resistors was the tolerance of the BIT signals to +-1v. Cold start cold morning your battery voltage could be 13.5v or higher making a 2k+1k voltage divider yield 9v. So you could just spec the resistors based on a slightly higher VCC voltage. If your VCC is at 12.0v your battery is depleted and engines off anyways so you won't need the backup camera so having a slightly low BIT voltage shouldn't cause a problem.
 

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Hey all, first time poster here. I haven't swapped out the stereo yet, but this thread will be very helpful when I do, so thank you.





I wanted to change views as well, so I did a little research. It turns out that the default camera state is the wide angle fisheye view. Those of you with a replacement head unit know this. In order to get the normal and top down views, you need to apply +8 V to CAMERA_BIT0 and CAMERA_BIT1 respectively. The easiest way to do that would be to have a resistor divider from the +12 V source for the backup camera and a single pole triple throw switch.

I haven't verified this yet, but it should only require two resistors, some shrink tubing (around the resistors and their leads), some wire, and a switch. I made the diagram below to help illustrate this plan. If any of you want to give it a shot (at your own risk), please report back!

Honda Reverse Camera View.png


Source:
http://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/.../SC/SYS/C002991_enu/web/html/C002991_enu.html

Link to my diagram if it doesn't show up in the post:
http://i.imgur.com/UiG5rme.jpg

Good luck!

Edit: Cleaned up the link urls
Have you built one of these kits yet? :)
 

humblebeast07

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Good call on the shunt caps, I didn't think too far into the circuit. Still wouldn't be too bad to implement but definitely would want to toss it all in a little project box.

My concern with the resistors was the tolerance of the BIT signals to +-1v. Cold start cold morning your battery voltage could be 13.5v or higher making a 2k+1k voltage divider yield 9v. So you could just spec the resistors based on a slightly higher VCC voltage. If your VCC is at 12.0v your battery is depleted and engines off anyways so you won't need the backup camera so having a slightly low BIT voltage shouldn't cause a problem.

Could something like this work??
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C4QVTNU/ref=nav_timeline_asin?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

BTW Im new on here, but about to install a Pioneer AVH-X5700BHS with the ASWC-1, and hard wire my radar detector, and mess with the usb's a little bit....But id love to be able to change the camera angle and love to keep the lines....Any extra info is appreciated...I really think this subject needs its own discussion.
 
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STiTCH87

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How do you install the ASWC-1? Is it plug and play to the stock harness behind the stock radio?
 

rjm161

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The install looks great. The metra kit and connectors were great. The only thing I would have improved about the connector is to have the bluetooth pins already wired so the oem microphone would work without having to retrofit it like I did with pins from another metra connector (see above pics). All features work as promised for my headunit and I have no quirks/bugs to deal with. My iphone 6 and this kenwood unit get along great.

Again, I must say the audio quality improvement is like night and day. As I've spent more and more time adjusting the crossovers and the speaker settings, even though I prewired the cables for a sub, I wont be getting one.
I am about to do this, this week. Thank you so much for the info. One question - the plug on the Kenwood mic appears to be mono. Is that correct? And the stereo one works OK?

Also, how did you know which wires on that plug lead were positive and negative (for the mic).

Thank you!
Rick
 


Alex_Civic

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I installed a pioneer nex 4200. Love it but only have one view on the camera and it's a little wonky. If anyone found a way to maintain all three views I'd be super interested. Also is there anyway to adjust the stock camera manually?

IMG_2667.JPG
I have the same setup as yours even the pioneer, just want to ask what connection on video did you connect the backup cam and did you put the 6v stepdown on it. Coz i tried to install with 6v stepdown but nothing is showing on screen but when i connect directly to red wire it works. Im a bit worried that it might burn my backup cam but thats the only way to work. And when the screen shows on reverse i have to close it with the x icon coz if not reverse cam will keep on popping on the screen. Does that thing happen to you? Any help and suggestion will be appreciate. Thanks.
 
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is there any online store that selling metrakit and offer internationall shipping (Europe Poland)? or is there someoen that can help me to get it?
 

Brutus63

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Hey all, first time poster here. I haven't swapped out the stereo yet, but this thread will be very helpful when I do, so thank you.





I wanted to change views as well, so I did a little research. It turns out that the default camera state is the wide angle fisheye view. Those of you with a replacement head unit know this. In order to get the normal and top down views, you need to apply +8 V to CAMERA_BIT0 and CAMERA_BIT1 respectively. The easiest way to do that would be to have a resistor divider from the +12 V source for the backup camera and a single pole triple throw switch.

I haven't verified this yet, but it should only require two resistors, some shrink tubing (around the resistors and their leads), some wire, and a switch. I made the diagram below to help illustrate this plan. If any of you want to give it a shot (at your own risk), please report back!

Honda Reverse Camera View.png


Source:
http://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/.../SC/SYS/C002991_enu/web/html/C002991_enu.html

Link to my diagram if it doesn't show up in the post:
http://i.imgur.com/UiG5rme.jpg

Good luck!

Edit: Cleaned up the link urls
So does this mean the power going to camera should be 8v? The pre-wired harness coming from Crutchfield includes a 12v to 6v stepdown. I’m on my fourth head set and waiting on Honda tech/corporate to confirm before I install with 12v to 8v step down.
Any luck on consistently getting rear view camera to work?
 

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I just ordered the same kit, but it says it comes with the backup camera connection. The kit is basically plug and play right? It says I shouldnt have to cut any wires.
 

joe3456789

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I have the same setup as yours even the pioneer, just want to ask what connection on video did you connect the backup cam and did you put the 6v stepdown on it. Coz i tried to install with 6v stepdown but nothing is showing on screen but when i connect directly to red wire it works. Im a bit worried that it might burn my backup cam but thats the only way to work. And when the screen shows on reverse i have to close it with the x icon coz if not reverse cam will keep on popping on the screen. Does that thing happen to you? Any help and suggestion will be appreciate. Thanks.
Did you ever get it figured out?
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