How to Change Oil on 2016+ Civic 1.5L Turbo

barrytran92

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Is there a torque spec for the drain bolt? A couple tips I've seen in the past:
  1. Drive a few miles first to warm up the oil so it flows out more easily. Just be careful of hot oil/parts underneath.
  2. Wear disposable rubber gloves. Have some rags or shop towels handy.
  3. Be prepared to move your oil catch pan as the flow changes.
  4. Wipe the drain plug surround and oil filter surround clean before replacing each to ensure no gasket/washer material remains.
  5. Recommend checking for leaks after adding oil and running the engine for a few minutes before reinstalling the under tray.
  6. Recycle your oil. Give a hoot, don't pollute.
Hi, can you help me please :
I used Mobil 1 M1-110 oil filter + 0w-20 Mobil oil + Honda 94109-14000 gasket, but the 1st time i changed, It got code A1, and the 2nd time is B code. I followed the steps to clear code in manual book but it did not work. I did it very carefully. Last time, I brang my girl to dealer, but still got A1 code.
Sorry my bad English.
 

Farcry1010

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Anyone know if there is enough clearance from the drain plug to the underbody panel to replace the drain plug bolt with a drain valve? I'd like to be able to do this, and attach a hose that runs directly into my can/pan and not drop any oil. I have an extractor too, which should make for faster drains.
Only problem with this is you would still have to remove the belly pan to remove filter. And bolt is right there so it doesn't leak over or on anything (a clean drain). If you want to use that extracter at every other change as per the MM then by all means use it. But I always will be changing my filter at 'every' oil change.
 

IronFusion

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Only problem with this is you would still have to remove the belly pan to remove filter. And bolt is right there so it doesn't leak over or on anything (a clean drain). If you want to use that extracter at every other change as per the MM then by all means use it. But I always will be changing my filter at 'every' oil change.
Thanks for the reply. I also plan on changing the filter with every oil change. I have 4000mi on the car after less than 3 months, and my daily commute is a mix of higher interstate speeds and highway stop-and-go. I still have 60% oil life remaining per MM, but I don't agree with an every other approach on filter changes when that would be roughly every 20k miles.
I don't mind removing the underbody panel to do service, I just don't like wiping up oil with towels off of the drain container. I am talking about the kind of valve that replaces the drain bolt, not the kind that you screw into the filter (though I may get one of those too). I haven't been under the car or taken the panel off, so I do not know how the drain bolt is positioned or if there is enough clearance between the pan and the panel to allow for one to be used.
 

Farcry1010

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Thanks for the reply. I also plan on changing the filter with every oil change. I have 4000mi on the car after less than 3 months, and my daily commute is a mix of higher interstate speeds and highway stop-and-go. I still have 60% oil life remaining per MM, but I don't agree with an every other approach on filter changes when that would be roughly every 20k miles.
I don't mind removing the underbody panel to do service, I just don't like wiping up oil with towels off of the drain container. I am talking about the kind of valve that replaces the drain bolt, not the kind that you screw into the filter (though I may get one of those too). I haven't been under the car or taken the panel off, so I do not know how the drain bolt is positioned or if there is enough clearance between the pan and the panel to allow for one to be used.
I was referring to the extractor method which you mentioned and will run down your dipstick tube and then extract the oil that way. But that is why I replied that you still must remove belly pan to remove filter. But as far as a a clean drain you still will spill some from the removal of the filter. So yes you still will be wiping up oil. It is an oil change non the less. Be prepared to get a little dirty. As far as removing the plug I didn't spill any oil at all (at least on my first oil change). I don't like the fact that a valve could possibly be opened accidentally by vibration road debris or malfunction (depending if it's tucked up under pan). Unless it is also capped which I would recommend. You don't need this valve to malfunction dumping your oil all over the hwy. so use a cap as well if you can. But I would like to see what you end up doing.
 


dblshock

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My extractor tube is too wide to fit into the dip stick hole. I really want to extract every other OCI and run the filter x2, some filters can handle 15k no problem.
 

dangng009

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Curious does anyone know the part number for the turn style screws with the flat heads. I am asking b/c the Honda dealership in Plymonth, MI changed my oil for the 1st/2nd time and loss two of them. I no longer go back to dealership for my oil service and do it my self. If anyone knows please chime in. I have been looking at all the Honda Parts store and they don't have the part listed. Also, tried a different Honda Dealership never heard from parts guy who couldn't find the part either.
 

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Curious does anyone know the part number for the turn style screws with the flat heads. I am asking b/c the Honda dealership in Plymonth, MI changed my oil for the 1st/2nd time and loss two of them. I no longer go back to dealership for my oil service and do it my self. If anyone knows please chime in. I have been looking at all the Honda Parts store and they don't have the part listed. Also, tried a different Honda Dealership never heard from parts guy who couldn't find the part either.
I'm in the exact same situation word for word.
 
OP
OP

Rocky5000100

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Curious does anyone know the part number for the turn style screws with the flat heads. I am asking b/c the Honda dealership in Plymonth, MI changed my oil for the 1st/2nd time and loss two of them. I no longer go back to dealership for my oil service and do it my self. If anyone knows please chime in. I have been looking at all the Honda Parts store and they don't have the part listed. Also, tried a different Honda Dealership never heard from parts guy who couldn't find the part either.
I'm in the exact same situation word for word.
I think that part might be on this page:
https://www.hondapartsnow.com/parts-list/2016-honda-civic-4dr-tour-ka-cvt/under-cover.html
 


alpine86

My dealer charges $39.95 for an oil change (synthetic, washer, filter).

I was wondering if it would be any cheaper if you do it by yourself.

I thought about doing that myself but I don't have a garage...
 

arhncmh

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Great thread. Thanks for posting.

Do you (or anyone else) know if this same information has been posted for the LX 2.0L configuration?
 

arhncmh

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I've spent some time trying to identify the specific part number for the "Under Cover" that needs to be removed to perform the oil change, and now I believe I've identified the problem...

The part that Honda shows in the diagram is the ENTIRE "Under Cover" assembly. We only need to remove a portion of it to perform the oil change.

Part #6 below is the "Under Cover" assembly. Note the area I outlined in red.

Honda Civic 10th gen How to Change Oil on 2016+ Civic 1.5L Turbo upload_2017-5-21_10-2-19


RedTouringMA previously posted this image (thanks):

Honda Civic 10th gen How to Change Oil on 2016+ Civic 1.5L Turbo 20151222_130712-


See the similarity to the metal component of the "Under Cover" assembly in this image to the Parts Diagram to the image above?

Looks to me like Honda isn't interested in selling us just the metal portion (or the 1/4 turn fasteners for it).

Scoundrels...
 

Rickmeister 48

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