Xenon Depot Volt HIDs

[silverrascal]

The Philip's 4300K bulbs throw the light a little further than the 6000K's, which is why I bought them, but they are more yellow than the LED DRL's. So, if you want that upscale look, the 6000K's are more appropriate.

And I do get flashed occasionally because they are so bright. Even turning on the high beams really doesn't outshine them. I live in the middle of nowhere though, so my headlights are my only light source on the road, and I need to watch out for deer. I have been in two collisions with deer, and I'm not too keen on getting in a third!

I presume these are the 35 Watt bulbs, though, right? If you are getting flashed you may want to check the aim and see if you're headlamps need lowering a little. Mine were fairly spot on for aim and haven't yet been flashed.

Mine are 6000k color but I may switch it down to 5000k less blue - XD has the bulbs for like $20/each so I may do that. Nice clean job on the the install, buddy.

Sponsored

 

[DarkLight]

I presume these are the 35 Watt bulbs, though, right? If you are getting flashed you may want to check the aim and see if you're headlamps need lowering a little. Mine were fairly spot on for aim and haven't yet been flashed.

Mine are 6000k color but I may switch it down to 5000k less blue - XD has the bulbs for like $20/each so I may do that. Nice clean job on the the install, buddy.

I aligned them on a level surface against a white wall with a measuring tape to ensure proper cutoff height. It's just that they just have so much throw/spill that people with old cars think I have my brights on. I've never been flashed by someone in a newer car.

I'll post a pic so you can see what they look like.

 

[DarkLight]

Here's what they look like, and yes, they're 35W.

 

[Snoopyslr]

According to Xenon Depot's website the inrush amp draw on the Volt Kit is less than 6 amps.

I can only assume they have regulated the current on these. I bet they take forever to warm up with that low of an in-rush.

I have a 36v 10amp max bench tester at home. I can't even test HID on it because it can't meet the in-rush requirement. I need to buy a Fluke with in-rush testing one of these days. More than a few times I could have used one.

 

[carlson03]

That will work perfectly. You can run 35w or 55w ballast with no concern. The draw isn't much different.

The reason you need a relay is because a normal halogen bulb will draw 8-10 amps. HID draw less once they get running, but when you flip them on there is a very high in-rush of amps. 15-20+ amps sometimes. Your factory wiring is spec'd to handle the amperage of halogen with an acceptable tolerance zone. Companies aren't going to pay for more expensive wiring than is needed. Your HID will turn on and work fine, but you're going to be heating the wiring up every time you turn your lights on and eventually the insulation is going to give out. This is why we use relays.

I ordered that relay kit yesterday, probably take a few days to get in, thanks for the tip!

 

[carlson03]

That will work perfectly. You can run 35w or 55w ballast with no concern. The draw isn't much different.

The reason you need a relay is because a normal halogen bulb will draw 8-10 amps. HID draw less once they get running, but when you flip them on there is a very high in-rush of amps. 15-20+ amps sometimes. Your factory wiring is spec'd to handle the amperage of halogen with an acceptable tolerance zone. Companies aren't going to pay for more expensive wiring than is needed. Your HID will turn on and work fine, but you're going to be heating the wiring up every time you turn your lights on and eventually the insulation is going to give out. This is why we use relays.

Relay kit came in, looks pretty good...pretty self explanitory, should I disconnect the negative on the battery before doing anything? I seen in the guide they were removing the positive screw going to the fusebox, i probably will use that since its a clean look....probably will do this on the weekend

 

[Snoopyslr]

Relay kit came in, looks pretty good...pretty self explanitory, should I disconnect the negative on the battery before doing anything? I seen in the guide they were removing the positive screw going to the fusebox, i probably will use that since its a clean look....probably will do this on the weekend

It's a good habit to always disconnect the ground whenever working on wiring. As long as you don't need the power for diagnostic reasons. Make sure your relay is fused between the battery and the ballast. See the left-most red wire fused leading into the yellow lead on the relay.

Pulled from How to install HID kits with no risk of damaging factory wiring!

 

[carlson03]

It's a good habit to always disconnect the ground whenever working on wiring. As long as you don't need the power for diagnostic reasons. Make sure your relay is fused between the battery and the ballast. See the left-most red wire fused leading into the yellow lead on the relay.

Pulled from How to install HID kits with no risk of damaging factory wiring!

Looks good to me! I will try to do that this weekend, I will try to get a few pictures and post for others who aren't sure about the relay kit, its all plug and play, pretty much impossible to mess up too it seems. Thanks again!

 

[TheWalkman]

I installed my HIDs today and am impressed. Installing the lamps and ballasts was a breeze. I also bought a wiring and relay kit. Unfortunately, the Honda plug to the driver's side from the stock harness wouldn't make a solid connection to trigger the relay so the vendor is sending another harness.

I really like the 4300K color. Though only 35 Watts, visibility and spread of the new lights looks great. The beam seems wider and the cutoff a bit higher than stock but no oncoming traffic flashed me.

Here are before and after pics from my DashCam. Granted it was raining this evening so all variables weren't the same but I think the difference is obvious.

Bottom line: easy install and well worth $65.

Before pic:

After pic:

 

[Snoopyslr]

Upgrade yourself to a 55w 5000k and you won't be sorry. It's 55w 5000k is pure white like 35w 4300k. The output is absolutely amazing!

I'm very happy I switched to 55w.

35w 5000k Drivers side (above)

55w 5000k Passenger side (above)

Both 55w 5000k bulbs. (above)

 

[carlson03]

It's a good habit to always disconnect the ground whenever working on wiring. As long as you don't need the power for diagnostic reasons. Make sure your relay is fused between the battery and the ballast. See the left-most red wire fused leading into the yellow lead on the relay.

Pulled from How to install HID kits with no risk of damaging factory wiring!

So, I think my relay kit is bad, pulled the negative, hooked everything up, and nothing from the lights...plug original ballasts right into the lights like before they fire up no issues, tried another time, still nothing...do I have to wait or should it be instant? Also, how do I clear my traction control lights? do I have to drive it some for them to go away, the dash says systems initializing, drive safely

 

[TheWalkman]

So, I think my relay kit is bad, pulled the negative, hooked everything up, and nothing from the lights...plug original ballasts right into the lights like before they fire up no issues, tried another time, still nothing...do I have to wait or should it be instant? Also, how do I clear my traction control lights? do I have to drive it some for them to go away, the dash says systems initializing, drive safely

Carlson,

If the lights work without the harness, double-check the connection to the driver's side headlight. If you bypass the pass-thru wire, (4 to 3 in the diagram below) you may/ will have problems. Also check the polarity of the other connections, i.e. black wires are going to black wires.

Hope that fixes it.

 

[carlson03]

Carlson,

If the lights work without the harness, double-check the connection to the driver's side headlight. If you bypass the pass-thru wire, (4 to 3 in the diagram below) you may/ will have problems. Also check the polarity of the other connections, i.e. black wires are going to black wires.

Hope that fixes it.

Thanks for the tips, I prefer to have the relay, the xenon kit I bought isn't the one OP bought, so mine didn't come with a relay by default, but was recommended to get one....I did check the wires and seems to be correct, even tried flipping them...also, I do not even hear the relay clicking, I didn't check power at the relay, but I did after the fuse on the relay harness and getting power, so must be something on the wiring/relay. I will email the seller on Amazon and see what they say. So I just drive a little and the traction control lights will go off btw?

 

[carlson03]

So

Carlson,

If the lights work without the harness, double-check the connection to the driver's side headlight. If you bypass the pass-thru wire, (4 to 3 in the diagram below) you may/ will have problems. Also check the polarity of the other connections, i.e. black wires are going to black wires.

Hope that fixes it.

So I went back outside to work on this since wife and son were taking a nap...wanted to check where power was and wasn't....plugged relay in, put the standard halogen bulb on there...wouldn't fit...odd, so I checked power at the stock wire where the relay harness was plugging in, had power there when light was on, plugged in relay harness, nothing on the back side, so it wasn't contacting the stock wiring...I look at it, look at the wiring that is there...I think they sent me a 9006...that's what it looks like to me...what do you think, hope you can tell from the picture, but the H11 bulb def doesn't fit

 

[TheWalkman]

So

So I went back outside to work on this since wife and son were taking a nap...wanted to check where power was and wasn't....plugged relay in, put the standard halogen bulb on there...wouldn't fit...odd, so I checked power at the stock wire where the relay harness was plugging in, had power there when light was on, plugged in relay harness, nothing on the back side, so it wasn't contacting the stock wiring...I look at it, look at the wiring that is there...I think they sent me a 9006...that's what it looks like to me...what do you think, hope you can tell from the picture, but the H11 bulb def doesn't fit

It looks right to me.

Remember: you don't plug your Honda headlight connector directly into the harness, plug it into the connector on the replacement HID bulb and then connect that to the relay harness (3 to 4 in the diagram above).